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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!

A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!

Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!

Timorasso

The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the variety. It's alway more complete than the 'Picolo Derthona' with a build in richness, more golden colour. Delicious, saline minerality, excellent acid profile, build in phenolics and carry through to a cleansing silvery line of bitterness + apricot kernel. The 2019 is another success from Massa & Piggy. A bolder slightly riper incarnation than the
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Pitasso’ Derthona Timorasso 2018

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Where the Cavallina has overt generosity and power, the fruit depth and length of the Pitasso are more than its equal, with an edge of sophistication that lends to a more restrained feel. The power is all there, showing superb linear fruit and exceptional, fine acid. This lingers forever! Stunning mouthfeel, leveling up on the harmony in comparison to the delicious Cavallina. This is very, very good. Effortless and composed. The flavours start with ripe pear, build and layer as you swallow and c
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The Friends & Lovers

Vietti, Oddero and Roagna are amongst the great names that have recognised just how unique & delicious the wines made from Timorasso are & have put the passion in a glass!

Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time. Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue. For the 2019: Th
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Roagna Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

A grape variety saved by saved by Massa & on the rise! With Vietti, Roagna and Borgogno adding their names to those making Timorasso, it's clear something special is happening in Derthona (the old name for Tortona). 'The 2019 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is bright, transparent and super-expressive. Luca Roagna's Timorasso is one of the most refined versions. I have tasted of Timorasso, which is usually a much more rustic white wine.' Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Nascetta

The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!

Erbaluce

The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

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Showing 571 Delicious Wines!

Lower elevation builds more generosity into Porcaria. Such wonderful texture! Made from Nerello Mascelese, some call it the Barolo of the South, others a cross between Pinot & Nebbiolo. I prefer to say it is itself & delicious. The vineyards of Etna have undergone a major renaissance in the last couple of decades. Passipisciaro has been one of the wineries at the forefront. I was blown away the first time I tasted this wine. “Aromas of Mediterranean scrub, eucalyptus, smoky flint an
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The lowest of Passopisciaro's contrada. Chiappemacine is typically fuller and richer by comparison Made from Nerello Mascelese, some call it the Barolo of the South, others a cross between Pinot & Nebbiolo. I prefer to say it is itself & delicious. The vineyards of Etna have undergone a major renaissance in the last couple of decades. Passipisciaro has been one of the wineries at the forefront. I was blown away the first time I tasted this wine. The Chippemacine and Sciaranuovo tend t
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti). ‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’. The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dried he
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

Owned by the Rosso family since 1920, the plot was partly replanted in 1984 and 2000. Situated about 2 miles (3km) to the north of Serralunga village, Cerretta lies close to the hamlet of Baudana and envelops that of Cerretta. The fruit for this Cru wine comes from the best parcel which is shaped like an amphitheatre facing south-east. This part of the vineyard provides a particularly good micro-climate for Nebbiolo since it is protected from stronger winds by the copse at the bottom of the s
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Serra’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Owned by the Rosso family since 1946, it was replanted in three phases: 1984, 1996 and 2003. La Serra is located about 1km south of the village of Serralunga in the upper part of the Serralunga commune. Those who have tried even the Langhe Neb will have quickly seen a wine from a maker with an understanding of harmony, restraint and purity. Aromas of red berry, blue flower and whiffs of oak-driven spice take shape in the glass. The palate is almost ethereally elegant, featuring crushed
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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Margheria’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

All south-facing and sitting at 340 metres, vinification is the same as the Barolo ‘Serralunga’. Intense and complex nose with notes of fruit and flowers and hints of leather and fresh hay, while on the palate it’s perfectly knit and very distinctive, red fruited in style with ironstone, choc-cherry, roses and some of the darker notes of cola and porcini, along with textural red plum-skin, grippy, black-tea tannins that underpin, but it’s still generous and very approachable now.
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Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Italy, Barolo

An excellent stepwise jump in quality commensurate with the price. Building in depth and length with a matched build in seriously good grape tannins. Again the flow and shape. Long, even, divine. Such a beautiful wine. Incredible complexity and harmony make for a seamless wine that you can’t separate the individual aromas and flavours. Wonderful fruit, savoury notes, baking spice, woody herbs tea. Every sniff reveals another perfume. This is very very good enveloping you in pleasure even at
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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Moving to Monforte at the top of Bussia we see the hallmarks of the top Bussia. The acid tannin complex is true to the form for the commune showing a playful grip. Bright red fruit with a certain delicacy combine with energetic acid. Again a beautiful perfume with a dark mineral slatey edge. Blood orange and a little phenol. Another great example of grape first Barolo showing its part of the commune of Monforte. Like the Monrobiolo a few more years in bottle will see this resolve, build and
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Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Starderi’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Olek has incredible touch. The man understands textures and tannins, creates wines with insane perfumes and layer after layer of diving flavours. I can't wait to hook one of these when it hits the warehouse! Starderi is in the center north in the commune of Nieve. Check it out in the map below.
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Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Roncagliette’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

From the same vineyard that offers us Gaja's Sori Tildin, we have Olek's Roncagliette! Tasting the 2020 (Oct 2023) 6 months after it's Oz release again demonstrated Olek's incredible touch. The man understands textures and tannins, creates wines with insane perfumes and layer after layer of divine flavours. On release it was quite bold. Now, everything is dialing into the right levels. The fruit has pulled back a little and the perfume is building. The shape and flow I've come to expect from
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The 2019 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is a pretty tightly-wound wine for a site that has produced much more open-knit Barolos. Floral, savory and mineral notes dominate, while fruit is pushed into the background. I am surprised to see acids and tannins so prominently on display. It will be interesting to see if this ever softens. Drink 2024-2037 Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points The 2019 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio (with 6,800 bottles made) needs more time to open. With fruit from the village of
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The Bold!
Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! The wine has resolved beautifully now, the Monforte tannins are still there, the have softened the generosity of fruit has built and secondaries layered in. This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Sordo's Perno, is the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Well 2010, what can you say! Stunning year and it shows in
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Fèlsina Chianti Classio Riserva DOCG ‘Rancia’ 2016

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Castelnuovo Berardenga UGA

The layering of flavour, tannin in this is excellent! Everyone went nuts on the Fontalloro because of a couple of extra points, wow, this is stunning! Fèlsina have tamed the beast! While this is a powerful wine with incredible depth and length, it is beautifully balanced with excellent grape tannins. It will resolve and build sensuality over the coming years. Dark and incredibly complex there's a vitality to the mouthfeel. If you're going to crack one young give it loads of air in the morning a
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A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

On most recent devouring, Oct 2022, the 2016 Barolo is starting to reveal itself.  On release it was clearly something special, now a couple of years on it is a seamless wonder, flow and harmony. A vote for blending across communes, the oppulence of La Morra, the layers, line and length of Castiglione Falletto and the dark structure of Serralunga all making for a complete wine. Plenty more to come! A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, &
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Fratelli Alessandria Barolo ‘Gramolere’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Monforte d'Alba, Italy

The 2017 Barolo Gramolere is a powerful, tightly wound wine full of Monforte tension. Readers will have to be patient. Dark-fleshed fruit, spice, menthol, licorice and sage add layers of aromatic intrigue to this firm, hulky Barolo. The 2017 takes all the Gramolere signatures and turns up the volume. Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Beautifully composed, flowing and elegant for a Grumello  a commune that can show a little more overt grunt in the context of Valtellina. While there is a rounder mid palate the delicacy entrances. Incredibly layered and fine. The fruit marries woody herbs, spice tea and beyond with a blood orange feel. Long though not quite the length of the Sant’Antonio. Fine drinking to be had here. Very fine, pure, ultra-mineral expression of Nebbiolo here. Strawberry, raspberry, spice, fennel, min
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