Size & Type
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Piedmont
Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.
While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.
Founding Figures
The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.
On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.
Area Planted
Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.
The Communes
It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!
Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.
We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!
The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.
Most Common Varieties
Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.
White
Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.
Red
The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The most northern of Conterno's Serralunga holdings The 2021 Barolo Cerretta is the most approachable of Conterno's 2021 Barolos. It seems to offer a bit less overall dimension and complexity than the other Barolos and, therefore, more complete balance of its components in the early going that should allow it to start opening with a few years in bottle. There's plenty of underlying nervy structure, and yet the Cerretta is not quite as imposing as its siblings in this range. Floral and spice ov
Dolcetto from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Oddero have balanced the development of their Dolcetto beautifully. An excellent rendition of Dolcetto - complex with crunch and refined tannins. A little darkness, perfume spice and beyond. The texture and work to get through this through puberty is clear. Complete and delicious.I explored the reductive and raw nature of lesser Dolcetto wines with Pietro in our discussion below.
Dolcetto from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Dolcetto translates roughly to sweetish. Many Dolcettos are raw fruit bombs, this by contrast is some seriously well made wine! Excellent élévage wonderful freshness and development delicious, layered, & earthy. Beautifully weighted. Stunning wine. Lovely acid. Savoury with dark and red fresh fruit ~ mulberry.If you want to know how serious Cavallotto is about Dolcetto, they planted it on the hillside between Bricco Boschis and Monprivato/Codana. That, my friends, is a site with pe
Everything in it's place and a place for everything, and, there is lot's of things! The 2023 Dolcetto d'Alba is a gorgeous, quirky wine. Exotic flowers, spice, leather, licorice and cool, blue-toned fruits are all laced together in the glass. The 2023 was done with 60% stems, as is the custom here. The Burlotto Dolcetto remains one of the most distinctive wines in all of Piedmont.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 91 Points
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Near a decaded ago Giovanni Rosso's Langhe Nebbiolo was the very first wine I tried from the estate. It enchanted then just as the 2021 impresses now! It has the hallmarks of all of Rosso's Nebbiolos: energy, balance, harmony, a caressing texture, restraint & purity.The winemaking here is considered and clever. The tannins are perfectly matched to the mid-weight core of fruit. Showing a level of complexity well beyond its classification flowers, earthiness red and darker fruits with a li
Dolcetto from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Vineyards lie in Monforte, in an area with particularly great natural biodiversity. Elena and Luca strongly believe in Dolcetto as an important “tool” for young wine drinkers and their entry level exposure to the Langhe. The grapes are vinified whole cluster and aging takes place in stainless steel for this fragrant rendition of Dolcetto.
Dolcetto from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
The Dolcetto grapes we produce come from our own vineyards, where we find soils typical of the Helvetian region (ancient in origin, calcareous-clayey with shades of pale gray and pink. Alternating layers also include siliceous sandstone, calcium carbonate, and iron). The color is intense ruby red with purple highlights. The persistent floral and fruity aromas of sweet violets and small red fruits give it a pleasant immediacy. Its moderate tannins and balanced, elegant structure make it the quint
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Finally got my laughing gear around this (Aug 2024). Classic structured Monforte! A day of air brings out the perfume and harmonises and softens the tannins. A classic tar and roses profile lifts from the glass with sour cherry and blood playing around red and blue fruits with baking spice and a cleansing sappiness. The elegance and transparency of the fruit profile is dominated by some serious tannin of very high quality so typical of Monforte. It will take time to resolve full, when it does th
Nebbiolo from Barolo, Piedmont
From the Perfume of Barbaresco, the Barolo shifts to a savoury, earthy profile, the richness of La Morra fruit shining through! 80% La Morra. Immediate generosity has it open for action but so much more. A little chocolate and little coffee, savoury bits on dark fruit. There is a lot going on here with layers of flavours and tannins. The depth and length are impressive. Wonderful harmony and presence.Full, dense and obviously really bright. Rose, maraschino, fleshy red plum/red prune. More
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
2019 is the first vintage of Langhe Nebbiolo to be produced. It is made from a small part of vines registered as Nebbiolo Langhe in the Vignane MGA (in Barolo, next to Castellero) as well as some declassified fruit from the Barolo parcels. In 2019, the Nebbiolo was fermented on skins for about 10 days before being racked to preserve fruit and freshness. It went through malo in steel and was transferred to a single 1000L Mittelberger botti for aging. This is super fresh and aromatic with Baro
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