Size & Type
Other
$48
Oddero have balanced the development of their Dolcetto beautifully. An excellent rendition of Dolcetto – complex with crunch and refined tannins. A little darkness, perfume spice and beyond. The texture and work to get through this through puberty is clear. Complete and delicious.
I explored the reductive and raw nature of lesser Dolcetto wines with Pietro in our discussion below.
Spending a couple of hours with Pietro exploring the history of the region, the winery and the people was a pleasure. The quality and personality-filled wines of Poderi Oddero make sense … you’ll see!
Pietro’s grandfather Giacomo, the 5th generation, played a major role in establishing the DOC for Barolo and a suite of agricultural produce, think hazelnuts and white truffles!
While the red tape of a DOC can feel restrictive, at the time the impetus was to collectivley set base level standards that would see the profile of the Langhe raised on a global stage.
Few would argue they haven’t achieved their goal!
Variety
Dolcetto
Vineyard
Location: Castiglione Falletto, Sheet 7, Sub-plots 57, 58 Characteristics: 300 meters above sea level, southern exposure, 2.7 x 0.8 meters spacing, 4,700 vines/hectare density, Guyot upward-trained vertical-trellised training system.
Age: 30 years
Size: 0.6 hectares
Yield: 80 quintals/hectare
Location: Town of La Morra (Le Rù), Plot 21, Sub-plot 499
Characteristics: 280 meters above sea level, southwestern exposure, 2.7 x 0.8 meters spacing, 4,700 vines/hectare density, Guyot upward-trained vertical-trellised training system.
Age: 40-50 years
Size: 0.6 hectares
Yield: 80 quintals/hectare
Harvesting period
Mid-September
Production
10,000 bottles
Vinification
Selection of grapes in the vineyard, fermentation and maceration for about 12 days in stainless-steel containers, followed by malolactic fermentation in November.
Maturing
Ageing in stainless steel followed by bottling the next spring. On the market from early summer.
Notes
If you are not familiar with this wine, it can be a real surprise. The name is deceptive: As dolce means sweet in Italian, many might think that Dolcetto is a dessert wine. In reality the name comes from the Langhe, deriving more about the grape than the wine. It’s always been the table grape of our hills, eaten in the autumn together with seasonal pears and boiled chestnuts from the nearby Alpine valleys. Gianni Brera, the noted journalist of the Guerin Sportivo weekly and La Repubblica daily, wrote to us in a letter dated August 1979: I’ve uncorked a few of your bottles. The Dolcetto enchanted me. It is very solid, serious but not stern. An act of barbarity justifies the otherwise-suspect name: Our ancestors, ready in front of a full-bodied Barbera, must have been touched and used a term of endearment to name it, just like ercolino (“little Hercules”, a term for a strong child) for the Romans.
Tasting through Oddero’s wines, they have a rustic nature to them, the tannins are mouth coating, often dusty and chalky. Yet, they’re balanced with a purity and brightness of fruit. There is a faint layer of oak in the Barbera from the new large Stockinger botti refreshing the old botti that have seen decades of use. It sits in balance. Isabella Oddero describes it as neutral and elegant.
The wines demand patience. Drink the DOCG Barolo and Cru’s over 2 or 3 days when young. I write this with a large glass of 2016 Barbaresco ‘Gallina’ in hand. It’s been open for 3 days now and is drinking the best it’s drunk. The tannins have softened a little, harmonising with the fruit. The wine has resolved to reveal a balance, beauty and perfume that sat shy on first opening.
These are superb wines of purity, character and energy. They represent an interpretation of Nebbiolo that requires patience and with it will reward you with bags of personality
– Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded
Readers who enjoy fine, classically built wines will want to check out Oddero. Bravo!
– Antonio Galloni, Vinous
This is a great opportunity to explore tannin and mouthfeel.
In Australia, we have wineries that have been around for 150 years. In Germany 4-500 years. Oddero sit in the middle with around a 300 year history.
If only those vines could talk. Now with 35 ha of vines across Barolo and the Gallina Cru in Barbaresco the estate continues to evolve with thoughtful intent.
Like many of the best estates in Piedmonte the attention to detail in the vineyard has lifted a notch or 3 and practices are now organic. I’d love to try their honey and hazelnuts. Italian honey is the bomb!
The film below is in Italian, seriously, just soak it up!
The podcast from Levi Dalton with Isabella Oddero from 2009 and one with Giacomo Oddero that just dropped is well worth a listen.
Since 2008 Luigi Oddero’s vineyards have been certified organic. Work has been underway to improve, soils, trellising and spend more time in the vineyard. Adding reduced yields the focus is clearly on lifting quality! I haven’t seen many older Oddero’s, today’s range have personality to burn.
The Langhe Neb sees a short ferment and maturation in Stainless steel.
The DOCG level Neb’s stay on skins for around 20-28 days in Tine (large vertical wooden barrels).
Stockinger Botti from Austria have been gradually introduced to replace the large old botti. Custom sizes have been bought, just 1 for each vineyard! Isabella describes the wood as being very neutral and austere.
I suspect the Barbera, that handle oak better than Neb, has been used for the first fill to ‘wash’ them of oak flavours and tannins before the Nebbiolo takes its turn. The quality and level of oak in the Barbera is nicely done.
Whatever the technique, the results in the glass are impressive!
Based in La Morra, Oddero’s 35ha are spread across Barolo, Barbaresco and Asti. Currently released Cru’s are Vigna Rionda (Serralunga), Rocche di Castiglione (Castiglione Falletto), Brunate (La Morra), Villero (Castiglione Falletto), Bussia Vigna Mondoca (Monforte) Bricco Fiasco – currently blended in into the Barolo Normale.
Where in the world does the magic happen?
Frazione S. Maria, 28, 12064 La Morra CN, Italy
Pinot Noir | Gevrey-Chambertin, Burgundy
Nebbiolo | Bussia, Italy
Red Blend | South Australia, Australia
Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo (sub-region)
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