Centre Loire
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Centre Loire
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Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
These sites produce the most direct, accessible expression of Pouilly-Fumé. Under Louis-Benjamin's guidance, its quality has improved dramatically, now rivalling his other wines. Layered and already open, the 2023 offers enormous complexity and pleasure for a young Dagueneau. Of course, it will only get better after 3 to 10 years in bottle.The first bottle of Didier's wines I devoured was a bottle of Silex in 2001 with Doc when I was working with him at Yarra Yering. We were looking to
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
“The 2022 Pur Sang is done in a really sophisticated style. Despite its long élevage, it needs a little more time for its oak (demi-muids and cigar-shaped barrels) to integrate fully and for its sense of strictness to mellow. But this isn't a wine you'd crack open on release anyway. It is pure and clear, with fine texture and a tenderness to its core. The 2022 shows fine lines and length, with tangy green flavors like cornichons and dill meeting green orange on the finish.”Rebecca Gibb
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
Pur Sang, meaning ‘thoroughbred’ in French, originated from Didier Dagueneau’s frustration at wine writers constantly referencing that he ploughed this site by horse. The first label featured a horsehide rug image, if you get the joke. One of Dagueneau’s historic superstars, it comes from a 30-year-old, densely planted vineyard called La Folie (madness) in Saint-Laurent-l’Abbaye. Farmers wondered at Dagueneau buying the land, which was not a vineyard at the time (it had been long ago
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
“I’m a bit of a fan of the Buisson Renard. At the bottom of the hill below the winery in the village of Saint-Andelain, there's a greater proportion of clay to flint, giving a broadness to the wine's shape that envelops the whole mouth. In 2022, you can smell the warmth of the vintage and experience its richness and yet its sense of lightness. There's an appealing chew to the wine, and on the finish, a salty residue that makes you want to continue drinking. It retains acidity, line and lengt
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
This wine is priced above Pur Sang these days, indicating how highly the Domaine rates the vineyard and the wine. Buisson Renard is a cool mid-slope terroir on the southwest side of the Saint-Andelain hill and the soils are a mixture of clay and flint (or silex). The site was historically named Buisson Menard, as was the wine initially, but a wine writer mistakenly reviewed the wine as Buisson Renard. Renard means fox in French, and Buisson means bush, so the error gave the wine a name
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
The first bottle of Didier's wines I devoured was a bottle of Silex in 2001 with Doc when I was working with him at Yarra Yering. We were looking to benchmark for the Dry White No.1, a Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc blend. It was included in a bracket with some exceptional white Bordeaux. Prior Didier's wine I had not been impressed by the Pouilly-Fumé I had tasted, most of it green, weedy, cats piss. Silex was a breath of fresh air.Jefford's commentary sums it up beautifully. “His wines smel
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
Rarely exported as there is so little made, we only get a few bottles even at the best of times. Didier Dagueneau always dreamed of making a great Sancerre from the chalky slopes of Chavignol. It was only in the late ‘90s that he was able to acquire half a hectare of Les Monts Damnés, near Gérard Boulay’s Comtesse parcel, and soon planted it to his own exacting standards. The south-facing, steep site has white soil packed with chalk. The historic name of the parcel or climat (within Le
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
“The 2022 Silex is not a lot of fun upon release; dry and tense, it really needs time to mellow. There's flesh from the clay element of its clay-flint soils, which is felt on entry but tightens up as it moves through the mouth. This remains a wine of drive, firmness and upright structure; it speaks of the place it comes from rather than its variety. Aromatics are almost a forgotten element; this is a wine about structure and texture. There is a lemony, wild goat cheese-like note and a distinct
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
Silex is the ultimate Dagueneau wine in many ways: super-mineral, pure, crystalline and typically very long-lived. Silex means flint, and this wine is produced only from the flint-rich soils on the north-facing slopes of the hill of Saint-Andelain. The vines mostly range between 35 and 65 years old, and yields are kept lower than in most other vineyards. Silex ferments and ages in Dagueneau’s famed cigar-shaped barrels and other casks, and a portion now matures in 220-litre Wineglobe�
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
“The 2022 Pur Sang is done in a really sophisticated style. Despite its long élevage, it needs a little more time for its oak (demi-muids and cigar-shaped barrels) to integrate fully and for its sense of strictness to mellow. But this isn't a wine you'd crack open on release anyway. It is pure and clear, with fine texture and a tenderness to its core. The 2022 shows fine lines and length, with tangy green flavors like cornichons and dill meeting green orange on the finish.”Rebecca Gibb
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