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When you’re looking at wines from the great producers, like Hubert Lignier, they optimise every year. They make fresh, fine and elegant Burgundies.
The wines are personality-filled, layered, complex, harmonious, they have a seamless flowing nature.
Simply put they beg you to drink them!
Father and son Hubert and Laurent Lignier manage this 9 hectares estate in Morey-Saint-Denis. They practice organic viticulture in order to create a perfect balance for the vine’s growth but have no intention of seeking certification.
The Domaine Hubert Lignier has long had a reputation for its fine wines known for their concentration, depth and structure. From ‘humble’ beginnings bottling small amounts of two different cuvées of Morey St. Denis (the village bottling and the 1er Cru “Vieilles Vignes”) as well as the fabled Clos de la Roche, Lignier now bottle an impressive range. All of the Domaine’s holdings are now bottled under their own label. Hubert’s son, Laurent, is the next generation of this proud estate and is following his father’s traditional practices to ensure the treasures coming from the family’s impressive vineyard holdings continue to exhibit the best of their respective appellations. The Domaine owns 8.30 hectares principally in the villages of Morey Saint Denis (where their home and the cellars are located), Gevrey Chambertin and Chambolle Musigny.
Recently, the Ligniers have expanded their holdings to include parcels in the appellations of Nuits Saint Georges, Pommard & Monthelie. The Ligniers follow the principles of “lutte raisonnée” (sensible combat) in their viticulture: for example, only organic compost is used when necessary and the vineyard is tilled so that no herbicides are used. Yields vary from 20 to 55 hectoliters per hectare depending on the conditions of the growing season and the appellation. The thin, clay and limestone soil on the slopes is not conducive to vigorous growth and limits the crop naturally. A “green harvest” is used when necessary to further manage production to ensure perfect maturity. Young vines are trained using the Cordon de Royat (spur training) system, which helps control the vigor and yields as well. Of critical importance, the “sélection massale” system (i.e. replacing missing vines with cuttings from the same vineyard) is the only method used to propagate vines, a tradition that gives an extra touch of complexity and character to the resulting wines.
At harvest time, the pickers remove any unhealthy clusters in the field, to avoid contamination of the healthy grapes in the baskets, a practice that is supplemented with a “table de trie” at the cuverie.
Traditional vinification practices are the core of their work: grapes are destemmed and fermentation takes place in open-top cement tanks that allow manual pigéage. Only natural yeasts are used. Laurent uses an extended cold soak maceration period prior to fermentation to allow greater extraction (contrary to his father who believes that the best extraction takes place during the alcoholic fermentation). Fermentation is rather long and generally lasts 15 to 20 days following the cold soak of 5 days. The use of new oak for the élevage is carefully restrained; the norm being approximately 20% to 30% on the village wines and up to 50% for the Premier and Grand Crus. The wines of the village appellations usually spend 18 months in barrel while the Premier and Grand Crus remain in cask for 20 to 24 months before being bottled, all without fining or filtration. All work in the cellar that requires movement of the wine is done by gravity; the wines are never pumped.
Domaine Hubert Lignier is based in the Côtes-de-Nuits north of Beaune in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis with wines made from Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny. In addition, they source fruit from Fixin, a small parcel in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Saint Romain. Recently the Domaine has commenced sourcing fruit from Pommard to the South in the Côtes-du-Beaune. Their prize holdings are of the Grand Cru’s Clos de la Roche, Griotte-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin alongside a suite of excellent well positioned Premier Cru’s.
Showing of wines
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
A discreet but not invisible hint of volatile acidity adds lift to the well-layered nose of black cherry, violet, lavender and subtle earth and spice hints. The muscular and energetic broad-shouldered flavors offer excellent punch and depth on the driving and firmly structured finish. Assuming that the VA remains at its current level, it shouldn't be more than a background element.Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
A cool, pure and relatively high-toned nose combines aromas of essence of red cherry, lilac, violet, lavender and plenty of earth character. There is better concentration to the nicely powerful and muscular flavors that culminate in a robust finale and while the finish still comes across as grippy, the tannins seem riper.Burghound
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots wafts from the glass with aromas of plums, cinnamon, peonies, orange rind and raw cocoa. Medium-bodied, fine-boned and lively, it's bright and nicely concentrated, with youthfully chalky tannins and a saline finish. As usual, this is one of the more tightly wound premiers crus in the range, with an elegant, rather ethereal profile, and it will reward bottle age.William Kelley, Parker's Wine Advocate
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
From a higher-altitude site located in a former quarry, Lignier's 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots unwinds in the glass with aromas of earthy wild berries, cherries, licorice and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's lively and precise, with a more tightly wound, lower-pH profile than the Riotte.William Kelley, Parker's Wine Advocate 92-94 Points AM 91-94 ♥ Sweet spot Outstanding
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes is shaping up beautifully, mingling aromas of dark berry fruit, orange rind, espresso roast, forest floor and warm spices in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's deep and complete, its serious long-haul structure largely concealed by a lively core of fruit. As usual, this "baby Clos de la Roche" derives from a parcel planted in the 1930s and 1940s that straddles the climats Faconnières and Chenev
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
The 2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes, which comes from vines planted as far back as the 1930s, suffered a lot of millerandage so that the yields was 25 hectoliters per hectare. It is matured one-third new oak and one-third whole bunch fruit. It has an introspective bouquet at first and then gradually unfolds to reveal enticing blackberry, briary and cold stone scents—all very sophisticated and poised. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, a disarming sense of symmetry an
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
"Aromas of ripe plum, spice, damp earth and the sauvage are trimmed in admirably discreet wood. There is fine richness and volume to the sleek, intense and well-detailed middle weight flavors that are quite saline in character, all wrapped in a relatively powerful, palate coating and long if mildly rustic finish. This too is an impressive villages and recommended. ♥ Outstanding Top value"Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
Another high point of the range is the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées, a medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety wine evocative of dark berries, licorice, sweet soil tones and potpourri. Vibrant and intense, it's a serious cuvée, built to age.William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 90-92 Points
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
A pure, elegant and attractively airy, even perfumed, nose reflects notes of mostly red cherry, spice and floral wisps. The punchy and super-sleek medium weight flavors also possess a striking mouthfeel with a more subtle bead of minerality, all wrapped in a balanced and impressively long finale. This is excellent with the development potential to match. ♥ Sweet spot OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burghound 92-94 PointsThe Geverey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'Aux Combottes' sits next to the Grand Cr
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
More discreet wood influence more easily allows the elegant, and more floral, aromas of mostly dark pinot fruit to be enjoyed. The caressing but punchy medium weight flavors possess good mid-palate richness before terminating in a dusty, youthfully austere and well-balanced finale. This is lovely and very Combottes in character, which is to say refined but with focused power.Allen Meadows, Burghound 91-94 PointsThe Geverey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'Aux Combottes' sits next to the Grand Cru Lat
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
A reserved but exceptionally elegant and wonderfully pure nose combines notes of plum, violet, spice, earth and a whiff of smoke. The sleek, refined and intense middle weight flavors are less powerful than the Morey 1er but notable finer, all wrapped in a balanced and sneaky long finish. This is a wine that should be approachable young but has the stuffing to age effortlessly.Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
Here too moderately generous wood surround the nose that is also relatively high-toned with its aromas of pomegranate, red cherry, various floral scents and soft spice nuances. The medium weight flavors possess a notably finer texture thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins that also support the long and mildly austere finish that is on the compact side today. I expect this to add flesh and unwind as it ages and as is often the case, this is the best of Lignier's 1ers in 2017.Burghound
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