Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru ‘Côte de Léchet’ 2021

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

Following the extraordinary 2018 and 2019 vintages, and despite another early harvest, 2020 has seen a return to a style verging on the classical mould. Defaix explains that nothing arrived in the winery above 13.5 degrees, and the pHs looked closer to those of 2017 than the previous two years. Another point of contrast was the relatively high levels of malic acid, bringing taut backbone to what is otherwise a (coolly) ripe vintage. Defaix’s enthusiasm for the vintage is well-founded: at this address, the 2020s are filled with great intensity, energy and drive.

About Bernard Defaix

Always searching for better ways of doing things, for ways to improve despite their solid base. Fourth generation Defaix, brothers Didier and Sylvain, have managed their vineyards organically and sustainably for many years and are remain one of the few certified growers in Chablis (certified in 2012). The wines are pure, fresh and mineral, and the forward-thinking pair also bottle most of their wines under screwcap.

Domaine Bernard Defaix produce some wonderful Chablis, all at remarkably good prices—the rare confluence of very high quality and low prices. The Estate owns 27 ha of vineyards in Chablis, of which half are Premier Cru—the Domaine is the largest holder of the famed Côte de Lechet. Since 2002, Didier’s wife, Hélène Jaeger-Defaix, has brought her own family holdings to the partnership and these southern Burgundies are also made with the same respect from their organically tended plots throughout Rully, through to the cellar in Chablis.

In the Vineyard

Vineyard practices are organic and biodynamic. Seeking constant improvement, Defaix continues work replanting exhausted vines, managing vine disease and frost, and working to understand the soils and ecosystem.

In the Winery

Things are pretty simple. Wild ferments in a combination of tank and barrel depending on the vineyard with lees stirring to add body and complexity as necessary.

The 2021 Vintage at Bernard Defaix

From Burghound:

Didier Defaix describes 2021 as a “vintage that is radically different from 2020, not only in terms of the growing season but also in terms of the style of wines it produced. In 2021 we had a very long vegetative cycle but even with the longer hang time, optimal maturities were difficult to obtain. The frost delayed things and then we were battling mildew and especially oidium. It was also quite humid during the summer, so we did a lot of leaf thinning to help with aeration.

The harvest for us began on the 21st of September and while yields weren’t especially good given that they were off 50%, potential alcohols were reasonable at between 11.5 and 13%. We have chosen to lengthen our élevage period to fully 18 months now, which is a good thing in the context of the 2021 vintage as the wines were really quite strict at the beginning but after the malos, they rounded out nicely. As to the style of the vintage, I really like the fact that the terroir is wonderfully transparent, and the appellation hierarchy is equally clear.” Defaix noted that because of the extremely low quantities that there is no Petit Chablis for 2021.

I would add that there are some very promising wines in the range that should repay extended keeping.

Where in the World is Bernard Defaix?

Click on a map to enlarge 🔎

Chablis Geology & Geography Explored