Winery
Poggio di Sotto
Brunello has such a spectrum of styles from the divine, elegant, and, graceful to the overblown clumsy monsters. I typically play on the side of elegance and into the middle of the spectrum. Poggio di Sotto’s is undoubtedly on the elegant side.
So, Trembles rocks up with a box. We sit, we pour, we proceed to shoot the s@#t. Then that moment after swirling the vino around for a couple of minutes, I smell. That little spark ignites. I’m looking at more than your average Sangio. The conversation shifts from the 123 varieties of heirloom tomatoes he’s planted to a glass full of happiness.
Here we see a Brunello at 13.5-14% where many are well north of 15%.
As expected the pieces fall into place. Low yield, higher density plantings, meticulous vineyard work combine to offer fruit with flavour ripeness at much lower sugar levels affording the opportunity to create such an elegant personality in the wine. Benchmark kit in the winery giving them full array of options to help elicit those superfine tannins with their lovely linear line.
About Poggio di Sotto
Established in 1989, Poggio di Sotto is known in Montalcino for its unique ecological niche of old Sangiovese vineyards (more than 50 years old). Together with the University of Florence 120 unique biotypes of Sangiovese were discovered. This biodiversity is the cornerstone of the unique brightness and complexity that is found in Poggio di Sotto wines and the leader of its distinctive style. Since its foundation, the estate has become famous for the high quality of the Sangiovese that it cultivates and has quickly achieved cult status.
If you consider these three factors—consistent quality over many vintages, a steadfast adherence to a classical winemaking tradition and a ready influx of capital—you might agree that Poggio di Sotto has few rivals in Montalcino.
Poggio di Sotto, owned since 2011 by Claudio Tipa of ColleMassari on the Tuscany Coast, holds the blueprint for elegant Brunello di Montalcino.
Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate
Monica Larner wrote an excellent article exploring all things Poggio di Sotto and tasting a vertical from 2005-2020. It’s well worth a read.
The estate is in Castelnuovo dell’Abate in the southern part of the region. Although the climate here is warmer than other communes within Montalcino, the hot sea breezes from the Mediterranean are blocked by Monte Amiata and the Ombrone river generates cooling breezes at night.
Biodynamic viticulture, high vine density, extremely low yields and extended cask ageing combine to produce what many refer to as ‘the Burgundy of Brunello’. Piero had an uncompromising commitment to Sangiovese in purezza and enthusiastically supported the creation of sub zones for Montalcino, saying “I would love for Castelnuovo dell’Abate to become an official sub-appellation so consumers can know that this Brunello is made in one of the sunniest parts of Montalcino where Sangiovese matures perfectly”.
The wines are characteristically light in colour, with complex aromas of red berry fruit, earth, leather and tobacco. Firm acidity and silky yet substantial tannins give the wine a long-lasting flavour.
In 2011, with no descendants, Piero sold his beloved estate to Claudio Tipa of nearby Colle Massari. Claudio didnt change a thing and the wines continue to be amongst Italy’s, and the world’s, finest.
The new custodians has taken Poggio di Sotto into the upper echelons amongst the greats of Brunello.
In the Vineyard
Made from vineyards located at 200, 300 and 450 metres above sea level with different exposures. The area is close to Castelnuovo dell’Abate, in the valley of the Orcia river. Grapes are hand picked after a careful selection. The yield is 3 – 3,5 tons per hectare this is very low. Yields are normally around 5T+ for exceptional Brunello.
In the Winery
This Brunello di Montalcino is made with 100% Sangiovese Grosso and the fermentation is spontaneous and made in 70 hl oak casks with prolonged maceration and pumping over.
After the malolactic fermentation, the wine ages for 40 months in 30 hl oak casks plus an additional 12 months in bottle.
Below you see the large barrels, botti, in the winery. A quince resting on the door of a botti. Vintage is quince season! For the eagle eye a Bucher Vaslin Delt Oscillys destemmer. This is the benchmark destemmer for destemming bunches and keeping berries whole. This allows the winemaker to perform incredibly gentle whole berry ferments with infinite control of tannin extraction. If you want to make Burgundian style Brunello this is essential.
Where in the World is Poggio di Sotto?
Poggio di Sotto is in Montalcino, Tuscany. The vineyards and winery are based in Castelnuovo dell’Abate in the southern part of the region.
Want more deep dive into our Brunello Primer in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Montalcino home to Rosso + Brunello di Montalcino”.
