Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité 2016

Product information

Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière chez Edouard Cuvée Haute Densité 2016

Chardonnay from Saint-Aubin, Côte du Beaune, Burgundy, France

$380

Closure: Cork

Description

This singular wine comes from 0.7-hectares in Derrière Chez Edouard, planted in the year 2000, at a density of roughly 30,000 vines to the hectare. Yes, you did read correctly (the vines are spaced around 30cm apart in 1m rows). At such a density, Lamy typically gets a maximum of three tiny clusters per vine (sometimes one and sometimes none!) and the entire plot only yields enough juice to fill the contents of a single barrel. Lamy’s trials with this spacing have been deemed a qualitative success and he has subsequently rolled out this program in a number of other parcels including Les Tremblots (Puligny, 22,000 vines/ha) and, gulp, on his soupçon of vines in Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (24,000 vines/ha). As you would imagine, distributor allocations of Lamy’s Haute Densité cuvées rarely top more than a few cases and the wines are seldom tasted in the cellars. How does this differ from the other cuvée from the same site? More intensity, more salinity, more mineral concentration (even though that’s hard to imagine) and somehow less overt fleshiness. It’s like the vines are sucking even more from their soils and the result is something completely unique. Cropped at an astonishing 100 grams per vine, there’s 42 bottles for Australia and six magnums.

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Check out all of the wines by Domaine Hubert Lamy

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

About Domaine Hubert Lamy

One of Burgundy’s best kept secrets is barely a secret any more. Olivier Lamy is making some of the purest and most mineral white Burgundies of the Côte (and some pretty damn handy reds) and demand now far exceeds supply. This will not surprise those who know how this exceptional vigneron works in the vines. Pioneer of high density and of Poussard pruning amongst other things, Lamy’s attention to detail and innovation in the vineyard is now an inspiration to knowledgeable growers across the Côte and even the world!

“I would blindly buy any of the white St-Aubin premiers crus…”

Bill Nanson, The Finest Wines of Burgundy

“These wines offer incredible quality for the price.”

Allen Meadows, Burghound.com

“Young vigneron of great quality, Olivier Lamy produces St Aubins that are worthy of comparison with the greatest wines of Burgundy…”

La Revue du Vin de France, les Meilleurs Vins de France

“Though known for his whites, Olivier Lamy has half-a-dozen reds in his range, the standout being the Santenay Clos des Gravières that exuded class and was way above its station. Overall, it was a bountiful crop of top-class wines from Olivier, continuing to reaffirm his status as one of the best winemakers in the Côte de Beaune.” 

Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

Winemaking

Below are my translations form Lamy’s website

Chardonnay

The grapes are whole bunch pressed, gently, using a pneumatic press. Lightly racked into 1-5 year old 300L barrels and 600L demi-muids. Fermentation takes place in the barrels with temperature controlled using a cool cellar to aid a long slow fermentation of up to 90 days.

My experience is that such long, slow fermentation results in increased mid-palate weight and long creamy mouthfeel.

The Chardonnay is stirred a little to suspend lees and malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. In August (11month after harvest). The wines are lightly fined with cassein (a milk protein) that will clarify them and remove some phenolics. Sulphur additions are made according to analysis.

The wines are bottled after 12-18months élevage.

Pinot Noir

Fruit is 100% destemmed. Maceration lasts around 20 days with pigeage and pumping over according to the season. 1-3 year old barrels are used for maturation. Malolactic fermentation is completed in barrel. The wines are racked, fined and filtered if necessary.

The wines are bottled after 12-18months élevage.

The 2016 Vintage at Domaine Lamy

2016 is a truly outstanding vintage at this address in both colours, as it is indeed at many addresses across the Côte d’Or. Some are arguing it may well be the finest since 2010 (or 2014 if we are only talking whites), although the quantities are significantly down, which of course makes it all the more frustrating.

To quote one of our favourite Burgundy growers, Ghislaine Barthod, “It is certainly one of my finest years, perhaps the finest. But it is also certainly my smallest in terms of production.” It’s enough to bring a tear to a Burgundy lover’s eye!

But let’s focus on the positive we have before us today. Olivier Lamy did suffer losses to the frosts that ravaged the Côte de Beaune, but it was not as big a disaster for this producer as it was for some, and we have an excellent allocation all things considered. The whites have serious depth yet, as always at this address, tremendous tension, minerality and racy freshness. They have the intensity of 2014, but probably more flesh. They will benefit from two to five years to develop, or even six months just to settle down, although they will wow from the get-go.


Where in the World is Saint-Aubin

Click to view detailed map

Saint-Aubin branches off from Chassagne-Montrachet. Containing some 20 Premier Cru’s producing 75% white and 25% red.

Produces like Lamy and Pierre-Yves-Collin-Morey are working hard to raise the perception of the village which produces fantastic wines.


Exploring the Geology & Geography of the Villages

In this video the villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet are explored. Towards the end, you’ll note the discussion of the soils in the south part of Chassagne-Montrachet being the same as parts of the Côte de Nuits.

Oliver Lamy explore Domaine Hubert Lamy’s Saint Aubin vineyards through their geology

Where in the world does the magic happen?

Domaine Hubert Lamy, Rue des Lavières, Saint-Aubin, France

Saint-Aubin
Côte du Beaune
Burgundy