Winery

Domaine Hubert Lamy

One of Burgundy’s best kept secrets is barely a secret any more. Olivier Lamy is making some of the purest and most mineral white Burgundies of the Côte and some pretty damn handy reds. Demand now far exceeds supply!

About Domaine Hubert Lamy

This will not surprise those who know how this exceptional vigneron works in the vines. Pioneer of high density and of Poussard pruning amongst other things, Lamy’s attention to detail and innovation in the vineyard is now an inspiration to knowledgeable growers across the Côte and even the world!

“I would blindly buy any of the white St-Aubin premiers crus…”

Bill Nanson, The Finest Wines of Burgundy

Sometimes I contemplate what I think might be the easiest way to make enemies in Burgundy: A Michelin Guide-style ranking, out of three stars, of the region’s best domaines. Olivier Lamy would be one of three white wine producers in the Côte de Beaune to whom I would unquestionably award three stars. Last year, I wrote that I ran the risk of exhausting superlatives if I attempt to articulate just how much I admire these wines, and this year is no different. It is hard to think of a more passionate, knowledgeable and hard working wine maker as Olivier Lamy. The family and the domaine are located in the village of Saint-Aubin, within a short distance from the domaine’s extensive array of vineyards spread around the villages of Chassage-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and Saint-Aubin. There are records of the Lamy family growing vines since 1640!

William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Olivier gained experience at Domaine Méo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanée before taking over the family domaine from his father, Hubert.

Olivier was one of the first winemakers in Côte de Beaune to favour the use of larger size barrels, and in the cellar there are many 350 and 600 litres barrels. Yields are kept low and following intensive work in the vineyards, the harvested crop passes a selection on a sorting table before being transferred to the stainless steel fermentation tanks. The wine making is traditional, and the wines are aged in 0-15% new oak (with an average of 10%) for 18-24 months before bottling.

While the backbone of this fine domaine is the stunning wines from Saint-Aubin, the jewel in the crown is its tiny holding in Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, located just above the vines of Leroy’s Domaine d’Auvenay.

In the Vineyard

Olivier gained tremendous experience through working in the vineyards, and adapts his own experience and believes in the way he plants, cares and treats his vines.

Among Olivier’s exciting philosophies is the planting of high density (haute densité) vineyards, which he believes allows them to capture more from their terroir. The first vineyard planted this way in 2000 was the top part of the Saint-Aubin 1er Cru “Derrière Chez Edouard”, with the planting of 28,000 and later 30,000 vines per hectare – three times the normal planting density, and effectively three times the work required to produce the same amount of wine. Not surprisingly, the result is overwhelming and this wine has an enormous depth and dimension.

The majority of the domaine’s vineyards consist of stony, limestone-based soil, with a thin 10-30 cm of topsoil, and have a favourable southeast exposure.

In the Winery

Below are my translations form Lamy’s website combined with some additional info

Chardonnay
Olivier was one of the first winemakers in Côte de Beaune to favour the use of larger size barrels, and in the cellar there are many 350 and 600 litres barrels. Yields are kept low and following intensive work in the vineyards, the harvested crop passes a selection on a sorting table before the grapes are whole bunch pressed, gently, using a pneumatic press and transferred to the stainless steel tanks. The wine making is traditional, the juice is lightly racked into 1-5 year old 300L barrels and 600L demi-muids for fermentation with temperatures controlled using a cool cellar to aid a long slow fermentation of up to 90 days, shorter in some years and longer in others. The wines are aged in 0-15% new oak (with an average of 10%) for 18-24 months before bottling.

My experience is that such long, slow fermentation results in increased mid-palate weight and long creamy mouthfeel.

The Chardonnay is stirred a little to suspend lees and malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. In August (11month after harvest). The wines are lightly fined with cassein (a milk protein) that will clarify them and remove some phenolics. Sulphur additions are made according to analysis.

The wines are bottled after 12-18months élevage.

Pinot Noir
Fruit is 100% destemmed. Maceration lasts around 20 days with pigeage and pumping over according to the season. 1-3 year old barrels are used for maturation. Malolactic fermentation is completed in barrel. The wines are racked, fined and filtered if necessary.

The wines are bottled after 12-18months élevage.

Where in the World is Domaine Hubert Lamy?

Domaine Hubert Lamy is based in Saint-Aubin immediately adjacent to and branching of to the west of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet.

Filters & Sorting

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Domaine Hubert Lamy Bourgogne Les Chataigners 2019

Chardonnay | Saint-Aubin, Burgundy

Lamy farms four small parcels on the white limestone soils of Les Chataigners. Tucked up at the far end of the village, this sheltered site is Lamy’s highest and coolest vineyard, with vines planted in 1990 and 2008. The fruit was whole-bunch pressed and naturally fermented before being raised in older barrels. Perennially this one of the Côte’s most impressive Bourgogne-level whites. Take that to the bank in 2018. “Bursting with scents of pear, peach, beeswax and white flowers, the 2
$130
$125ea in any 3+
$120ea in any 6+
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin La Princée 2019

Chardonnay | Saint-Aubin, Burgundy

La Princée is a blend of 10 small village parcels from across just under three hectares. One-third of these vines are now over 60 years old, and the remainder were planted in 1985 and 2000. All the parcels are in the cooler, east-facing Saint-Aubin combe (valley), on chalky/mineral soils. It is therefore no surprise that this is a racy white Burgundy with great energy and a limestone-rich personality. This will offer more pleasure than many wines at twice the price. “Aromas of pear, fre
$174
$167ea in any 3+
$160ea in any 6+
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin La Princée 2020

Chardonnay | Saint-Aubin, Burgundy

La Princée is a blend of 10 small village parcels from across just under three hectares. One-third of these vines are now over 60 years old, and the remainder were planted in 1985 and 2000. All the parcels are in the cooler, east-facing Saint-Aubin combe (valley), on chalky/mineral soils. It is therefore no surprise that this is a racy white Burgundy with great energy and a limestone-rich personality. This will offer more pleasure than many wines at twice the price. “The 2020 Saint-Aubi
$174
$167ea in any 3+
$160ea in any 6+
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This has long been one of Olivier Lamy’s finest reds, year in, year out. It comes from just under a hectare of vines on the lower slope of Derrière chez Edouard where the soils have more clay. The vines here are more than 50 years old and gift very small, ripe and intensely flavoured bunches that produce a deep and layered wine with pure, dark cherry fruit and plenty of spice. Again, Lamy worked with roughly 50% whole bunches and did not sulphur the wines at all until bottling. Another barg
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+
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This has long been one of Olivier Lamy’s finest reds, year in, year out. It comes from just under a hectare of vines on the lower slope of Derrière chez Edouard where the soils have more clay. The vines here are more than 50 years old and gift very small, ripe and intensely flavoured bunches that produce a deep and layered wine with pure, dark cherry fruit and plenty of spice. Again, Lamy worked with roughly 50% whole bunches and did not sulphur the wines at all until bottling. Another barg
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+
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Lamy has 2.4-hectares in the 1er Cru Les Frionnes, with vines planted in 1935, 1960 and 1985. It’s a southeast-facing site with old, decomposed limestone/clay soils and a plethora of small rocks in the topsoil. The vines are adjacent to the Derrière chez Edouard, but this is a slightly warmer site and is therefore picked earlier. Frionnes gives both pulpy fruit and vibrant, saline freshness along with a compact, rocky close. As you can see from the notes below, the 2018 is a lovely example.
$224
$214ea in any 3+
$204ea in any 6+
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Lamy has 2.4-hectares in the 1er Cru Les Frionnes, with vines planted in 1935, 1960 and 1985. It’s a southeast-facing site with old, decomposed limestone/clay soils and a plethora of small rocks in the topsoil. The vines are adjacent to the Derrière chez Edouard, but this is a slightly warmer site and is therefore picked earlier. Frionnes gives both pulpy fruit and vibrant, saline freshness along with a compact, rocky close. As you can see from the notes below, the 2018 is a lovely example.
$224
$214ea in any 3+
$204ea in any 6+
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Lamy makes three cuvées from this beautiful southeast-facing plot which sits behind the village cemetery. The Pinot Noir vines were planted in 1960, and directly behind, on the steeper slope, are the Chardonnay vines—planted 18 years ago at a density of 14,000 vines per hectare. At the top is the Haute Densité parcel (approx. 30,000 vines per hectare). This is from the 14,000-vine-per-hectare parcel, although the 2018 includes some declassified Haut Densité fruit (20% of the total p
$224
$214ea in any 3+
$204ea in any 6+
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Lamy’s tiny Clos du Meix parcel is just 0.7 hectares, situated at the western fringe of the village. Planted between 1985 and 1995, the sheltered location (just below Les Castets on a south-facing slope), its heavier clays, and the fact that it is fully enclosed by a wall (and therefore protected from the cold, northern winds), always gives this wine excellent texture to go with its intense minerality. Contributing to this mineral character is the bony soil in this vineyard, which has just
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+
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Lamy’s tiny Clos du Meix parcel is just 0.7 hectares, situated at the western fringe of the village. Planted between 1985 and 1995, the sheltered location (just below Les Castets on a south-facing slope), its heavier clays, and the fact that it is fully enclosed by a wall (and therefore protected from the cold, northern winds), always gives this wine excellent texture to go with its intense minerality. Contributing to this mineral character is the bony soil in this vineyard, which has just
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+
More Info

Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2019

Chardonnay | Saint-Aubin, Burgundy

En Remilly is one of Lamy’s prestige terroirs, sitting above the Côte de Beaune’s Grand Cru vineyards and producing one of his finest and most sought-after wines. Lamy has two hectares in this vineyard (planted in 1989) across two distinct parcels that sit just above the Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. One of these parcels is quite near to his Clos de la Chatenière vineyard and is a warmer terroir on a loosely knit mix of clay and limestone. The second is a far rockier site on almost pu
$327
$317ea in any 3+
$307ea in any 6+
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Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2020

Chardonnay | Saint-Aubin, Burgundy

En Remilly is one of Lamy’s prestige terroirs, sitting above the Côte de Beaune’s Grand Cru vineyards and producing one of his finest and most sought-after wines. Lamy has two hectares in this vineyard (planted in 1989) across two distinct parcels that sit just above the Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. One of these parcels is quite near to his Clos de la Chatenière vineyard and is a warmer terroir on a loosely knit mix of clay and limestone. The second is a far rockier site on almost pu
$327
$317ea in any 3+
$307ea in any 6+
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Lamy has only 0.25 hectares, so it stands to reason we only get a few cases. On one side, this hillside vineyard borders the 1er Cru Puligny vines of Champ Gain, and it sits above the Grand Cru Le Montrachet—so it’s very well positioned. The vines were planted in 1985 and are also affected by millerandé, resulting in low yields. A murger is a pile of stones or a wall made from the rocks extracted from a vineyard’s soil. Such a name suggests that this place has plenty of fragmented, j
$372
$357ea in any 3+
$342ea in any 6+
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