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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Delicious!

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Derthona’ 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

From near extinction the Massa family have saved Timorasso, for that I am truly thankful! Massa's Derthona is the perfect introduction to the variety. It's alway more complete than the 'Picolo Derthona' with a build in richness, more golden colour. Delicious, saline minerality, excellent acid profile, build in phenolics and carry through to a cleansing silvery line of bitterness + apricot kernel. The 2019 is another success from Massa & Piggy. A bolder slightly riper incarnation than the
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Pitasso’ Derthona Timorasso 2018

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Where the Cavallina has overt generosity and power, the fruit depth and length of the Pitasso are more than its equal, with an edge of sophistication that lends to a more restrained feel. The power is all there, showing superb linear fruit and exceptional, fine acid. This lingers forever! Stunning mouthfeel, leveling up on the harmony in comparison to the delicious Cavallina. This is very, very good. Effortless and composed. The flavours start with ripe pear, build and layer as you swallow and c
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The Friends & Lovers

Vietti, Oddero and Roagna are amongst the great names that have recognised just how unique & delicious the wines made from Timorasso are & have put the passion in a glass!

Vietti Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi 2020

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

The latest addition to the Vietti portfolio sees a white from the eastern most border of the Piedmont region. A perfect fit for Vietti with regard to their history of working with varietals of merit that for one reason or another have diminished over time. Timorasso makes beautiful wine the Massa is a cracker. I can't wait to try Vietti's version. With a wonderful array of flavours, textures, and, wonderful acidity the variety is loaded with personality & intrigue. For the 2019: Th
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Roagna Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino 2019

Timorasso | Colli Tortonesi, Italy

A grape variety saved by saved by Massa & on the rise! With Vietti, Roagna and Borgogno adding their names to those making Timorasso, it's clear something special is happening in Derthona (the old name for Tortona). 'The 2019 Timorasso Derthona Montemarzino is bright, transparent and super-expressive. Luca Roagna's Timorasso is one of the most refined versions. I have tasted of Timorasso, which is usually a much more rustic white wine.' Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!


Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Filters & Sorting

Showing 567 Delicious Wines!

Energy++

Giovanni Sordo Barbaresco 2016

Nebbiolo | Barbaresco, Italy

Incredible perfume, the hallmark Sordo attention to texture and harmony. Incredible transparency and complexity! A blend from Treiso, Barbaresco and Nieve with exceptional energy and vitality. Lively, balanced acidity. Vibrant juicy cherry fruit, excellent mouthfeel. Incredibly transparency. Wicked complexity so much going on. Layered. Showing just how good 2016 Barbaresco is. Such a refreshing wine.
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo del Comune di Serralunga 2017

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

2017 completes an excellent trilogy of Rosso's Commune wine! Giovanni Rosso’s fabulously good value Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba is made from fruit grown across 8 different estate vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. The fruit is sourced from Crus such as Cerretta and Serra, also released as single vineyard bottlings, as well as Meriame, Sorano, Costabella, and Baudana Those who have tried even the Langhe Neb will have quickly seen a wine from a maker with an understanding of harmony,
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Grace & Power

Graci ‘Arcurìa’ Nerello Mascelese 2019

Nerello Mascalese | Etna, Sicily

There's an incredible diversity of styles across Etna, Arcurìa, is divine, delicate, perfumed, resting firmly in the feminine camp! The Arcurìa is beautifully fine and long, with a sense of grace and delicious perfume that entrances. Essential to give it a decanter and plenty of time for it to show you its full potential. Boy, when it does you go to a happy place. Graci, are, killing it! These are refined wines, beautifully balanced, elegant, with amazing textures, and, entrancing perfumes.
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Claudio Mariotto ‘Pitasso’ Derthona Timorasso 2018

Timorasso | Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi

Where the Cavallina has overt generosity and power, the fruit depth and length of the Pitasso are more than its equal, with an edge of sophistication that lends to a more restrained feel. The power is all there, showing superb linear fruit and exceptional, fine acid. This lingers forever! Stunning mouthfeel, leveling up on the harmony in comparison to the delicious Cavallina. This is very, very good. Effortless and composed. The flavours start with ripe pear, build and layer as you swallow and c
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La Ca’ Növa Barbaresco 2019

Nebbiolo | Barbaresco, Italy

Excellent bright fruit, fine dusty tannins, long with a beautiful flavour profile, poised and delicious. Thirst-quenching drink. Red fruits, with a little, orange citrus, slight savoury note. Great balance here. A joy. Tasted 30 May 2022. La Ca' Növa 2019 Barbaresco will tempt readers with its effusive aromatics and compelling Nebbiolo fruit, but a few years in bottle are advisable to help the tannins soft. Medium in body and wonderfully translucent, the 2019 is such a great example of w
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I have an ever-growing soft spot for the whites of Mount Etna, they have seen great leaps in quality over recent times. The fruit for Pietradolce’s Arhcineri Etna Bianco is sourced from pre-phylloxera vines planted at 850-900 metres on the eastern slopes near Milo, the undisputed white growing sub-region of Mount Etna. You’ll find the whites from Milo to be generally a cooler reflection of Carricante with slightly lower alcohol, higher acid and minerality. The precision and purity her
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Cascina Luisin Barabaresco ‘Paolin’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Barbaresco, Italy

‘Paolin’ is predominantly (90%) from a relatively cool and elevated cru called Basarin in Neive, of which Bruno Giacosa is also a major owner. The exposure is southerly and vine age is 40 years on average.  It shows a degree of delicacy, no doubt due to the site, with elegant aromas of rose, cherry and sweet spice. Slightly darker fruit characters come through on the palate: blueberry, blackberry and even blackcurrant. Savoury, cedar-like flavours play a part, and the spiciness of the bouqu
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Cantine Garrone Prünent 2018

Red Blend | Valli Ossolane, Italy

Neb from the FAR NORTH ... Stylistically think the more ethereal communes of Valtellina! Brooding and darker than the Ca d’Mate with a build in structure. A little Austere, yet you can see there is much to come with time in bottle. Openning in the glass to reveal woody herbs, fresh sour cherry and complexities beyond. Such a different balance point to Barolo & Barbaresco. 13.5% sees vibrant fruit with layered dusty ripe tannins, whereas Barolo and Barbaresco need 14.5% for the same. En
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A wee hit of sulphur blows off quickly in the glass. Holds this in good stead for a long life. Crystal clear. A layer of lanolin funk and spice floats above vibrant fruits that build on the palate fanning out offering great persistence. A little cleansing phenolics and fine acid balance a creamy mouthfeel. The fruit is nicely developed making for delicious drinking now with more to come. Spicy and full of tension, the 2022 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche Montalto bursts from the glass wit
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A faint lick of larger format oak adds complexity without being intrusive and resolves quickly as the wine opens. Delicious! The perceived acidity is certainly higher than that of Montalto, sophisticated and delicate. Super-fine and flowing, a myriad of fresher flavours, I like Eric’s calls on candied lime, green apples and chamomile. Fabulous drinking fine and long with plenty more to come. The 2022 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito lifts from the glass with a savory blen
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Giovanni Rosso Barolo del Comune di Serralunga 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

Giovanni Rosso’s fabulously good value Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba is made from fruit grown across 8 different estate vineyards in Serralunga d’Alba. The fruit is sourced from Crus such as Cerretta and Serra, also released as single vineyard bottlings, as well as Meriame, Sorano, Costabella, and Baudana Those who have tried even the Langhe Neb will have quickly seen a wine from a maker with an understanding of harmony, restraint and purity. Aromas of red berry, camphor and
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Gorelli Rosso di Montalcino 2019

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Italy

Speller is on the money, this is still closed (April 2023). Builds with time in the glass, the fruit leans toward the fine Burgundian style. The tannins are just a little edgy, as with the Brunello, as the new Botti season future vintages should see further refinement to the texture.  This clearly sits in between the Rosso & Brunello level. I like the cranberry descriptor and would add a musk and rose top note. A few years in bottle should see the tannins resolve fully and mid-palate weight
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Ansitz Waldgries Südtiroler Weissburgunder Riserva ‘ITOS’ 2020

Weissburgunder | Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

What he achieves by a combo of half vinified in stainless steel and half the ferments in barrel, is the ideal melding of the racy with the complex and textured. A pretty flash Weissburgunder AKA Pinot Bianco! Excellent drinking. A layer of that shroomy, wet wool earthy funk I often see, and enjoy in high acid whites. White flowers perfume. Ripe white grapefruit. Counterpointed with a little stonefruit, fresh and zippy. Chalky acid with a dusting of phenolics adds cleansing grip. Superb long
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Bruno Giacosa Spumante 2019

Pinot Noir | Lombardy, Italy

Bruna Giacosa persists with her father’s interest in producing a very small batch sparkling wine in most good vintages, a Blanc de Noirs made in methode Champenois and aged on lees for between 2-3 years. Though a curio even in the storied history of Giacosa, it is a wine steeped in historical significance for the winery. An avid lover of the great house Champagnes, Giacosa sought to create his own ‘metodo classico’ that was distinctly Italian stylistically. In the early 1980s, the modern
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Just Divine!

Corzano e Paterno Chianti ‘I Tre Borri’ 2020

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

Exceptional core of fruit, a beautiful 2020 with length and energy. Excellent mid-palate weight and persistence. As with the Il Corzano time will be required for this to resolve.  Still quite tight with a  little whole bunch grip. Earthy layers, dark and brooding with energy. Give this time and it will take us to a happy place. Already starting to open in the glass. Maceration notes of graphite, pencil shaving, heading to truffle. A little perfume dancing over the top. The faintest line
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Fontodi Chiant Classico 2021

Sangiovese | Tuscany, Chianti Classico

We're yet to see reviews for the 2021 Chianti Classic. The 2021 Chiantis I've tried to date have been excellent, energetic with fine acid and tannins. Will report back just as soon as this hits the tasting bench. Expect delicious things!
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