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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Picolo Derthona' 2024
Refreshing!

Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Picolo Derthona’ 2024

A ripping Picolo, semi-dried apricot, apricot kernel, baking spice with exceptional presence for a wine at this price point. Flowing and luscious with a sherberty refreshing acid, making for a thirst-quenching drink. A little creamy play adds richness and complexity. Textural with a faint silvery line of bitterness cleansing the finish.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED

Vintage 2024
$57
$54ea in any 3+
$51ea in any 6+

Timorasso

La Colombera Derthona Timorasso 2024

This is more like it! A big step up from the 2023. Fine salty acid. A little savoury. Spice, and a lick of Crème Pat. Beautifully weighted and flowing. A generosity counterpointed by a zippy, fine line of energising acid interplaying with the subtle textural phenolics. A little mandarin and cumquat playing around the edge. Delicious drinking!Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Feb 2026

Vintage 2024
$59
$56ea in any 3+
$53ea in any 6+
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Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Claudio Mariotto ‘Bricco San Michele’ Derthona Timorasso 2023

NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio

Vintage 2023
$60
$57ea in any 3+
$54ea in any 6+
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Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Claudio Mariotto ‘Bricco San Michele’ Derthona Timorasso 2024

The 2024 sees a fuller, more textural wine than the 2023. The more golden colour the first indication. Textural, every so slightly oily phenolics and a gentle oxidative hand yield a complex, intriguing wine. Jasmine and white flowers lift from the glass over spices, white stone fruit and a little something exotic. Viognier and Chenin feels are playing around the edges. Elegant honey mixes with pops of cumquat and citrus zest. Mouthcoating with a transparency and a little pith at play. A demonstr

Vintage 2024
$60
$57ea in any 3+
$54ea in any 6+
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!


Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Erbaluce from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t

Vintage 2022
$58
$55ea in any 3+
$52ea in any 6+

Showing of wines

Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Inferno Sesto Canto 2018

The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Inferno Riserva Sesto Canto is poised, elegant and exceptionally polished. Brisk acids and beams of supporting tannin give this deceptively mid-weight Riserva tons of energy. The 2018 remains vibrant and super-expressive, perhaps a bit linear, but immensely enjoyable just the same.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points

Vintage 2018
$190
$183ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Rocce Rosse 2018

The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Rocce Rosse is bright, lifted and translucent in the glass. It offers striking intensity and yet remains light on its feet. Crushed red berry fruit, white flowers, mint, chalk and tangerine peel build with time in the glass, filling out the layers effortlessly. There is a feeling of translucency here that is utterly beguiling. Readers will find a wine of real stature and pedigree. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 Points

Vintage 2018
$190
$183ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Grumello Sant’Antonio 2018

The church of Sant’Antonio a Montagna in Valtellina lies to the east of Rocca De Piro. For centuries, it has protected from on high the vineyards that stretch down along the Risc di Sassina, one of the most generous areas of the Grumello, 450 metres above sea level.Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Sant’Antonio DOCG is brought to life by its long maceration and malolactic fermentation with skin contact. Cuddled and cared for like a child by a generous, resolute mother, it matures

Vintage 2018
$190
$183ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
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Chiavennasca from Grumello, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Grumello Buon Consiglio 2018

The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio is gorgeous. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, sweet pipe tobacco and pomegranate are all very nicely lifted. Soft contours and mid-weight structure give the 2018 tons of sensuality and overall appeal. Its balance is spot on. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points

Vintage 2018
$190
$183ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Nuova Regina 2018

The name has changed from Vigna Regina to Nuova Regina the wine is the same ... Delicious! Sassella is typically the most elegant of the Communes made by Ar.Pe.Pe.The new queen. Cherry, liquorice root, alpine and dried flower perfume with some exotic spice. Medium-bodied, delicious juicy red fruit, fine grained crushed rock tannin, lots of rose oil and a little mandarin peel, with a fine stony finish of impeccable length. Gee, this is a beautiful wine.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 90

Vintage 2018
$190
$183ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Ultima Raggi 2018

Late harvest quasi sforzato play here. There’s fun to be had here. ArPePe play in between a full-blown sforzato and the rest of their Riserva range makes for a fun balance. Completely dry, it introduces a level of richness and extra layer of tannin.The 2018 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi is powerful and intense in its fruit expression, but also mature. Candied fruit, spice, tobacco, leather and dried 

Vintage 2018
$190
$183ea in any 3+
$176ea in any 6+
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Chiavennasca from Grumello, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Grumello Buon Consiglio 2016

Beautifully composed, flowing and elegant for a Grumello  a commune that can show a little more overt grunt in the context of Valtellina. While there is a rounder mid palate the delicacy entrances. Incredibly layered and fine. The fruit marries woody herbs, spice tea and beyond with a blood orange feel. Long though not quite the length of the Sant’Antonio. Fine drinking to be had here.Very fine, pure, ultra-mineral expression of Nebbiolo here. Strawberry, raspberry, spice, fennel, min

Vintage 2016
$196
$189ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Nuova Regina 2016

The name has changed from Vigna Regina to Nuova Regina the wine is the same ... Delicious! Sassella is typically the most elegant of the Communes made by Ar.Pe.Pe. The Nuova Regina is clearly the most sophisticated of the 2016 Riserva crop.The perfume here ramps up a notch, delicacy and intrigue with underlying power all be it in a mid-weight wine. Constantly changing and evolving with each sniff. The flow, shape and mouthfeel are impeccable. Vibrant red fruit with woody herbs tea, blood ora

Vintage 2016
$196
$189ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Rocce Rosse 2016

The Rocce Rosse has a darker feel. Currently, I perceive it as a little richer with an extra squirt of tannin to hold it. Dark spiced, long firm yet fine tannins. Like the Nuova Regina and Sant’Antonio it lingers for some time. Again there is real beauty here. It unfolds in the glass revealing layer after layer. Incredible, complete wine of exceptional balance. It is unfair to separate the two Sassella, they are both stunning. Drinking the pair together on any given night over the next 1

Vintage 2016
$196
$189ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Grumello Sant’Antonio 2016

Once again my preferred Grumello from Ar.Pe.Pe. A build in perceived fruit weight length and depth over the Bon Consiglio with immediate generosity make for superb drinking out of the gate. Comparing this to the 2009 consumed a couple of weeks ago I foresee this building in complexity from an already complex starting point and achieving the incredible transparency of the 2009 as it moves into the next stage of development. Although it will be hard to keep your hands off it!The church of

Vintage 2016
$196
$189ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina

Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Ultima Raggi 2016

Late harvest quasi sforzato play here. There’s fun to be had here. ArPePe play in between a full-blown sforzato and the rest of their Riserva range makes for a fun balance. Completely dry, it introduces a level of richness and extra layer of tannin. Gary's note captures it well.Harvest is November 10th, because they leave the grapes to dry out and shrivel a little. It’s from the highest part of Sassella, sitting at 600m above sea level. Cherry, blackberry, plum, dried mint, spic

Vintage 2016
$196
$189ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo

Paolo Scavino Barolo ‘Bricco Ambrogio’ 2021

The 2021 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is classy and polished to the core. This wine has come such a long way since its debut. Enrico Scavino really believed in this site when he purchased it a little more than 20 years ago. The 2021 is a fine testament to his vision. Lavender, sage, menthol and licorice lead into a core of dark-toned fruit in a Barolo that is deep yet also light on its feet. This is impeccably done, not to mention very tasty. Drink 2028-2041Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points

Vintage 2021
$196
$189ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+
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