Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Ultima Raggi 2016

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

The first time, I had the pleasure of devouring a few wines from Ar.pe.pe was a revelation. These are vital, alive wines of grace and sophistication. Drinking them over 2-3 days revealed new, aromas and flavours with every sniff and mouthful.

Chiavennasca is a synonym for Nebbiolo. The name used in Valtellina for the variety.
Not drying grapes in “fruttaio” sounds rather odd to red wine lovers  in this land, but if one is to remain true to one’s vision, one may indeed appear to be odd at times.
This wine, born in 1999 from an Arturo’s idea, plays on the slightly drying of the grapes in the vineyards, up to 600 meters above sea level, at the highest point of Sassella, in the zone called “Ere”.
The right waiting time to reach the right degree of phenolic ripening of the grapes can take some weeks later than in the vineyards below. The variations in temperature between day and night during the harvest add strength to the skins and concentrate the sugars. The fruit slowly dries in the wind, while still attached to the vine, as it prepares for its winter rest. Just before the snow comes, between the middle and end of November, the grapes are picked, gently crushed and pressed in a wooden vat. At the first racking, it is completely dry and acidity levels are quite pronounced. The super-ripeness mitigates the nervous tannins of Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi DOCG and ageing in large barrels smoothens out its rich texture.
The sweetness of the ripe fruit thus lingers in the fragrance, without any cloying softness on the palate.
After ageing in the bottle, Ultimi Raggi becomes the wine with the highest alcohol content of our production, while losing none of the freshness and mouthfeel of Nebbiolo from the Alps.

Vineyard with grass – South/East Exposure – Altitude 600 m
Harvest: November 10th – Yield 30 hl/ha
Maceration: 78 days in wooden vats 50 hl
Ageing: 34 months in big barrels 50 HL, concrete, bottle
Alcohol: 14.0% vol
Serve at 15°C in a Nebbiolo glass

About Ar.Pe.Pe

In 1984, Arturo Pelizzatti Perego, bolstered by the experience gained in his father’s and grandfather’s firm, decided to create ARPEPE. His aim was to realize the full potential of the unique Valtellina terroir with all the pride and determination required for such an ambitious goal. To do so, Arturo started producing long-ageing Nebbiolo wines according to the rules of the oldest traditions.

The two video’s, the first in Italian with the family, and, then of the 2017 Vintage will give you a sense of the extreme environment and dedication taken to make these wines. Beyond that just try them!

Today, Isabella (winemaker), Emanuele and Guido Pelizzatti Perego continue their father’s work as the fifth generation of winemakers and growers. In just a few years, thanks to careful technological innovations and the choice of a young and passionate team, Arturo’s dream has come true: his rare wines are once again a major point of reference on the national and international wine scene.

About Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo, pronounced NEH-bee-oh-low, is such a unique variety. The name is derived from the Italian word Nebbia meaning fog. Two theories for the name exist. The first that it refers to the fog that the vineyards of the Langhe are often immersed in. Second that the natural bloom that covers the grapes gives them a foggy appearance. Given the latter applies to most red grapes I prefer the former! There are 4 main clones of which Nebbiolo Lampia dominates over  Nebbiolo Michet, Rosé (now proven to be a different variety), and, Bolla.

Where is it grown?

Southern central and north Piemonte: Langhe including Verduno, Roero, Ast, Carema, Biella, Novara and Vercelli. It is also grown in the lower parts of the Valle d’Aosta where it is known as Picotendroi, and, Valtellina in Lombardy where it is known as Chiavennasca, among others.

What does it taste like?

The ultimate case of not judging a book by its cover, Nebbiolo, at first appears pale in colour, old wines can have the appearance of rusty tap water.

Then you smell it! The aroma of most red wines is dominated by fruit characters. In contrast, Nebbiolo’s aroma is typically a mix of complex secondary aromas, earthy, tarry, spice, rose, citrus peel, woody herbs like rosemary, liquorice, phenol, dark chocolate, tobacco, truffles, leather, and, dark cherry fruit, often more evident on the palate. You’ll see this difference immediately by comparing it two the other two main Piedmontese varieties Barbera and Dolcetto.

Good Nebbiolo has a core of fruit running the length of your tongue, along with layers of those same secondary characters. Nebbiolo’s grape tannins give it a distinct texture, that for those who have not tried it before can seem hard, and, unyielding. Look for the quality and depth of tannin.

Achieving well balance tannin, alcohol, and, acidity makes for great Nebbiolo.

More than most other Italian wines, Nebbiolo, demands food to be at it’s best. A little fat and salt, enhance the texture and bring out the flavours.

Nebbiolo from Valtellina tends to be more feminine, tannin management more critical during the winemaking process. Well managed vineyards produce wines with a great core of vibrant fruit and fine texture.

The Ar.Pe.Pe Vintages

Given the extreme nature of the vineyards and the climate in Valtellina, all wines are not made every year. It appears that when the DOCG Riservas are made no DOCG Superiore is made. There are years when neither DOCG is made and only the DOC Rosso di Valtellina is produced.

The Vintage chart below shows just how long we have to wait between vintages of Superiore and Riserva!

Where in the World is Ar.Pe.Pe?

Piedmont is not the only Italian region to produce Nebbiolo! Valtellina Superiore is a thin horizontal strip in the very north of Italy above Milan.

Ar.Pe.Pe’s vineyards cover the Sassella, Grumello and Inferno sub-regions. Sondrio, Valtellina’s largest town is in the middle, Sassella the orange area to the left, Grumello the lime to the right and Inferno the burnt red just past Grumello.