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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
The 2023 Nebbiolo d'Alba San Sebastiano hails from older vines at Bricco Lago and saw the longer aging required by the appellation. From cask, it is a gorgeous and romising wine. Dark varietal fruit, graphite, lavender, sage and spice soar from the glass. Bright acids and veins of tannin shape this vibrant, wonderfully salivating Nebbiolo I can't wait to taste it from bottle.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 90-93 Points
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
Wow! This is dynamite! Pure, crystalline energy. The divine funk of whites with low pH, that lanolin twist and earthy spice that you often see in great white Burg's and top-end dry rizza from Alsaca & Germany. Superb texture, the quality of the acid & phenolics wrapping fruit of great intensity and transparency is insane. The shape & flow caress & ignite!The intrigue builds with citrus oils, white flowers, a good pinch of salt, a little earthiness and a savoury play. This is
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
Wow! This is dynamite! Pure, crystalline energy. The divine funk of whites with low pH, that lanolin twist and earthy spice that you often see in great white Burg's and top-end dry rizza from Alsaca & Germany. Superb texture, the quality of the acid & phenolics wrapping fruit of great intensity and transparency is insane. The shape & flow caress & ignite!The intrigue builds with citrus oils, white flowers, a good pinch of salt, a little earthiness and a savoury play. This is
Rosé from Inferno, Valtellina
First released in 1980! Cracking 'Metodo Classico' fizz from Valtellina! I've had some solid sparkling Nebbiolo from Piedmont before. None quite like this! When this was poured for me I had no expectations and ended up having a WOW! moment.Made from Chiavennasca 92% A.K.A Nebbiolo, Pignola 4%, Rossola 4%.Excellent texture and mousse, light salmon colour with a red fruit down the raspberry line, superb acid, balancing alow dose. Very sophisticated. A play of light woody herbs, rose, fa
Rosé from Inferno, Valtellina
First released in 1980! Cracking 'Metodo Classico' fizz from Valtellina! I've had some solid sparkling Nebbiolo from Piedmont before. None quite like this! When this was poured for me I had no expectations and ended up having a WOW! moment.Made from Chiavennasca 92% A.K.A Nebbiolo, Pignola 4%, Rossola 4%.Excellent texture and mousse, light salmon colour with a red fruit down the raspberry line, superb acid, balancing alow dose. Very sophisticated. A play of light woody herbs, rose, fa
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
A wee hit of sulphur blows off quickly in the glass. Holds this in good stead for a long life. Crystal clear. A layer of lanolin funk and spice floats above vibrant fruits that build on the palate fanning out offering great persistence.A little cleansing phenolics and fine acid balance a creamy mouthfeel. The fruit is nicely developed making for delicious drinking now with more to come.Spicy and full of tension, the 2022 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche Montalto bursts from the glass wit
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
2022 NOTE: A faint lick of larger format oak adds complexity without being intrusive and resolves quickly as the wine opens.Delicious! The perceived acidity is certainly higher than that of Montalto, sophisticated and delicate.Super-fine and flowing, a myriad of fresher flavours, I like Eric’s calls on candied lime, green apples and chamomile. Fabulous drinking fine and long with plenty more to come.The 2022 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito lifts from the glass with a
Nebbiolo from Neive, Barbaresco
Excellent drinking at this price point. Complete with well developed strawberries and cream with savoury, generous fruit. Playful and fun, solid depth and length. This is a big step up from the standard Barbaresco. The sophistication of mouthfeel, layering of tannins and flavours marking the difference. Serraboella turns out wines of interest from a number of producers including Barale, looking forward to seeing their 2019 too! This one is well worth a look.
Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont
Straight out of the gate these two top Timorassos from Claudio are again very, very good. Finer and more linear than the Calvallina, with those lemon citrus oils that delight. Lovely, refreshing. Phenolics with a light hand adding textural intrigue along with the lees. Florals and perfume entrance with grace floating above the glass. Complex funk building as it opens. Yet another success from Claudio Mariotto!Gambero Rosso Tre Bichierre Winner 🍷🍷🍷
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2022 Barbaresco is a pretty rich, heady wine. Dark cherry/plum fruit, cloves, licorice and mocha build as the 2022 shows o its considerable depth. This is one of the few 2022s that is quite resonant texturally. The aromatics could be more lifted and the tannins could use a bit more polish, but those qualities were next to impossible to come by in 2022. The inclusion of some juice from Riserva lots in a great help. This is a stellar showing. Drink 2027-2034Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Point
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
A pretty handy Rosso resting a small step away from heading into the next league. This needs time by the 4th and 5th day the full potential of this Baby Brunello was on full display. Dark cherry, fresh blackberry fruit with an earthy feel, a little dried orange peel, plush long tannins. Layered in spices rolling through, exceptional length and depth. There's been a bump in price here, if I were to taste it blind I would say it was excellent value. Comparative youth aside in a couple of years if
Giacosa’s Nebbiolo d’Alba uses fruit sourced solely from the Roero area, and the wine alongside both the Arneis and Nebbiolo Valmaggiore from here have a long and storied history with Bruno Giacosa. It is no coincidence that 1974 saw the first bottling of both Arneis and Nebbiolo d’Alba from Giacosa, as they were sourced from the same growers. The same is mostly true today, and where the Arneis is grown in the predominantly North-facing slopes of the vineyards in Roero, the Nebbiolo comes
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