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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
As with the 2015 & 2017 I found myself not really wanting to write tasting notes simply wanting to devour the glass!Sassella typically produces the most elegant wines of the three communes with Inferno next and Grumello the boldest.Another superb Sassella. Smoking wine. Everything is here and in all the right places. Elegance and sophistication caressing long fine tannins. Seamless harmony. Energy and vitality in a very complete wine. Line and length with a long vertical palate. A be
Nebbiolo from Sassella, Valtellina
As with the 2015, 2017 & 2019 I found myself not really wanting to write tasting notes simply wanting to devour the glass!Sassella typically produces the most elegant wines of the three communes with Inferno next and Grumello the boldest.Sassella has done it again! Perfume and intensity on the nose lovely flowers. Refined and more linear with an additional layer of tannins and textural intrigue. Super fine acid. It’ll be lovely to see this with a couple more years as it will relax
Nebbiolo from Grumello, Valtellina
Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! Grumello is to the east of Sondrio on the opposite side to Sassella making for a fascinating comparison in site! This is where the largest strides have been made. We’ve seen both of the Grumello Riservas priced at the same point now. Whatever is happening in the vineyard or winery to make that happen is translating into this Superiore (ArPePe makes either Superiores or Riservas in
Nebbiolo from Inferno, Valtellina
The 2022 Valtellina Superiore Inferno Fiamme Antiche is bright and nicely sculpted. Orange peel, mint and white pepper give this vibrant Valtellina Superiore tons of sizzle. High-toned aromatics, deep mineral inflections and a long, sustained finish round out this mid-weight, drop-dead gorgeous Inferno. Antonio Galloni, Vinous 92 Points
"Floral aromas of rose and iris mingle with red berry and tilled earth on this perfumed red. Elegantly structured, the vibrant palate offers juicy red cherry, crushed raspberry and star anise before a savory, almost salty finish. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity keep it balanced. Drink through 2030."Kerin O'Keefe
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
From Ravera in Monforte. As the vines age they will make Barolo! From Ravera in Monforte, this is made from the youngest vines (that will eventually be made as Barolo) and is made the same way as her three Barolos and then aged in barriques for twelve months. As a baby Barolo, this has some serious pedigree with rich, plush fruit of red berries with crushed flowers. Hard to beat for the money and an ‘affordable’ cellaring option.**Due Sept 2025**
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
Wow! This is dynamite! Pure, crystalline energy. The divine funk of whites with low pH, that lanolin twist and earthy spice that you often see in great white Burg's and top-end dry rizza from Alsaca & Germany. Superb texture, the quality of the acid & phenolics wrapping fruit of great intensity and transparency is insane. The shape & flow caress & ignite!The intrigue builds with citrus oils, white flowers, a good pinch of salt, a little earthiness and a savoury play. This is
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
Wow! This is dynamite! Pure, crystalline energy. The divine funk of whites with low pH, that lanolin twist and earthy spice that you often see in great white Burg's and top-end dry rizza from Alsaca & Germany. Superb texture, the quality of the acid & phenolics wrapping fruit of great intensity and transparency is insane. The shape & flow caress & ignite!The intrigue builds with citrus oils, white flowers, a good pinch of salt, a little earthiness and a savoury play. This is
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
A wee hit of sulphur blows off quickly in the glass. Holds this in good stead for a long life. Crystal clear. A layer of lanolin funk and spice floats above vibrant fruits that build on the palate fanning out offering great persistence.A little cleansing phenolics and fine acid balance a creamy mouthfeel. The fruit is nicely developed making for delicious drinking now with more to come.Spicy and full of tension, the 2022 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche Montalto bursts from the glass wit
Carricante from Etna, Sicily
2022 NOTE: A faint lick of larger format oak adds complexity without being intrusive and resolves quickly as the wine opens.Delicious! The perceived acidity is certainly higher than that of Montalto, sophisticated and delicate.Super-fine and flowing, a myriad of fresher flavours, I like Eric’s calls on candied lime, green apples and chamomile. Fabulous drinking fine and long with plenty more to come.The 2022 Etna Bianco Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito lifts from the glass with a
Nebbiolo from Neive, Barbaresco
Excellent drinking at this price point. Complete with well developed strawberries and cream with savoury, generous fruit. Playful and fun, solid depth and length. This is a big step up from the standard Barbaresco. The sophistication of mouthfeel, layering of tannins and flavours marking the difference. Serraboella turns out wines of interest from a number of producers including Barale, looking forward to seeing their 2019 too! This one is well worth a look.
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