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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“Here is the only wine that with 100% stainless-steel for all vinification and elevage. All from Lignorelles. That’s a very friendly nose – slightly round and faintly caramel despite tank elevage – an inviting sweetness. A little touch of green in the flavours but also lots of energy and citrus bitters. Very engaging, tasty wine. Long too.”Bill Nanson
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“All the domaine’s wines are vinified parcel by parcel – this comes from a single parcel in Lignorelles but a big parcel of 5ha and it’s the biggest cuvée of the domaine. Here starting to see a proportion of older barrels for elevage. A similar roundness and sweet invitation to drink. Mouth- filling, silky – here is a super wine for drinking today! The finish is pure and full of energy – again with lovely citrus-skin complexity. That’s really excellent.”Bill Nanson
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
This is very good. Defaix has given us a restrained, detailed expression of Chablis. Mineral with juicy fruit, citrus, and most importantly loads of personality. The fruit drive is impressive, balanced by lightning energy and zippy acid. The mouthfeel is superb, long and refined with great length. A build in depth and length a little more fine saline acid keeping it fresh and mouthwatering.Cleverly built up layer after layer with fruit savoury pops élévage that sees it resolved, together
Chenin Blanc from Brézé, Saumur
Looking good! Fresh, style with a nice phenolic grip and cleansing astringency with crunchy mineral acid. Spiced pear and quince with citrus rind and fresh marmalade are balanced by silvery almond lining. Building generosity in the glass.Give this a year in bottle to settle a little and drink over 5 years.
Gamay Noir from Moulin à Vent, Beaujolais
“The 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes is attractive, bursting with aromas of cherries, sweet berry fruit, rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and lively, it's deep and layered, framed by powdery tannins and bright acids. This has turned out well.”William Kelly, The Wine Advocate
Gamay Noir from Morgon, Beaujolais
I thought Bouland, Thivin & Foillard were good! Note on the 2019: Yes! This is superb. Right out of the gate I'm blown away. Taken far too long to get these on the list. An exceptional élévage has brought this wine to a place of great harmony, poise, and balance. Not the gangly teenager you see in many a young Beaujolais. This is a complete wine with impressive finesse over an underlying power. Dark cherry and spice, licorice and blood orange. Impressive depth and length, yet a sense of weight
Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre, Centre Loire
There’s Sauvignon and then there is Sauvignon from Sancerre. There’s Sancerre and then there is Dagenau. Then a pack chasing him. Mellot right at the front of that pack. Beautiful poise, delicacy and vertical long shape to the palate. Lovely bright fruit that has shifted beyond primary to aromas and flavours of intrigue. Crisp fine acid. This is an impressive drink. There’s a little passion fruit and gooseberry if you look for it. Overall it’s just a wonderful seemless Sauvignon Blanc.
Shiraz/Syrah from Crozes-Hermitage, Northern Rhône
There's Crozes and then there's Crozes - Franck Faugier has made a cracker! Stunning Syrah 🍇 Perfume violets, draws you in with the depth and length of aroma. Beautiful integration finely spiced, with a earthy, seasoned wood from grape not oak rhubarb red fruit. Heart shape complete, beautifully weighted and sophisticated. Excellent drinking. Long fine delicious.Honest wines made by farmers of stone fruit & grapes with bloody good palatesGalets are pebbles, the vineyard is covered
Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuisse, Mâcon
“There is a whiff of the exotic present on the petrol-tinged white and yellow orchard fruit scents. There is fine volume to the dense and rich flavors that possess plenty of dry extract on the delicious and sneaky long finish that is shaped by citrus-inflected acidity.”Allen Meadows, Burghound 87-89
Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuisse, Mâcon
“The slightly denser aromas transmit a vague hint of the exotic in the form of melon and pineapple hints on the mostly white fleshed fruit aromas. There is excellent intensity and precision to the solidly concentrated middle weight flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the equally dry and sneaky long and overtly bitter lemon-inflected finish. This too offers very good quality for its level.”Allen Meadows, Burghound 88 Points“The 2020 Mâcon-Prissé En Chailloux unfurls i
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
Showing exactly how important vine age is! A step up, an extra zip of salty acid and that mid palate weight with excellent length. Florals, white stone fruit a little citrus pith and plenty of fun. That slight primary edge that disappeared as it opened revealing excellent depth and length with restraint. A little more complexity. Mid palate texture is excellent. Hazelnuts and an extra layer of pleasure here. Excellent.
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