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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Shiraz/Syrah from Saint-Joseph, Northern Rhône
Poise and shape. Perret’s Saint-Joseph has a drinkability about it that is so often lacking in the new world. Florals, on red and blue fruits with a bit of spice sit delicately on framework of tannins with a nice bit of mid-palate grip. Weightless yet full of flavour. A graceful Syrah. It’s fun now, there is no doubt that time will be kind helping it relax and show more perceived generosity.
Blend from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Vallée de la Marne
Disgorged in June 2020 with eight grams per liter dosage, the latest release of Philipponnat's NV Brut Royale Réserve is based on the 2016 vintage, with 27% reserve wines. Offering up aromas of peach, pear and plum mingled with apple blossom and sweet pastry, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and expressive, with a pillowy mousse and a generous core of fruit, underpinned by bright acids.William Kelly
Gamay Noir from Fleurie, Beaujolais
Fresh vibrant juicy fruit, juicy acid, beetroot on cherry. Delightful, elegant, savoury playful, could get cerebral if you want but don’t have to. 35-90 year old vine. Energy, lovely fine texture, with veil of ever so slightly dusty tannins. Heart shaped fruit tapering with delicacy into a long finish. Excellent contrast to the power of Morgon, the finess and elegance of Fleurie at play.
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“Here is the only wine that with 100% stainless-steel for all vinification and elevage. All from Lignorelles. That’s a very friendly nose – slightly round and faintly caramel despite tank elevage – an inviting sweetness. A little touch of green in the flavours but also lots of energy and citrus bitters. Very engaging, tasty wine. Long too.”Bill Nanson
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“All the domaine’s wines are vinified parcel by parcel – this comes from a single parcel in Lignorelles but a big parcel of 5ha and it’s the biggest cuvée of the domaine. Here starting to see a proportion of older barrels for elevage. A similar roundness and sweet invitation to drink. Mouth- filling, silky – here is a super wine for drinking today! The finish is pure and full of energy – again with lovely citrus-skin complexity. That’s really excellent.”Bill Nanson
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
This is very good. Defaix has given us a restrained, detailed expression of Chablis. Mineral with juicy fruit, citrus, and most importantly loads of personality. The fruit drive is impressive, balanced by lightning energy and zippy acid. The mouthfeel is superb, long and refined with great length. A build in depth and length a little more fine saline acid keeping it fresh and mouthwatering.Cleverly built up layer after layer with fruit savoury pops élévage that sees it resolved, together
Chenin Blanc from Brézé, Saumur
Looking good! Fresh, style with a nice phenolic grip and cleansing astringency with crunchy mineral acid. Spiced pear and quince with citrus rind and fresh marmalade are balanced by silvery almond lining. Building generosity in the glass.Give this a year in bottle to settle a little and drink over 5 years.
Gamay Noir from Moulin à Vent, Beaujolais
“The 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes is attractive, bursting with aromas of cherries, sweet berry fruit, rose petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and lively, it's deep and layered, framed by powdery tannins and bright acids. This has turned out well.”William Kelly, The Wine Advocate
White Blend from Alsace, France
Riesling ~ Sylvanner ~ Pinot Blanc = Seamless, Delicious, Expressive, Beautiful! A blend of mostly Riesling and a small percentage of the Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc.Riesling shining through with perfumed, white flowers, elderflower, lemon citrus and baking spices. This one reminds me of the 2017, fine boned, a sophistication yet with the hallmark complexity and textural intrigue that Deiss always manages to achieve. The quality, line and length of acid here is insane, so gentle yet with a
Gamay Noir from Morgon, Beaujolais
I thought Bouland, Thivin & Foillard were good! Note on the 2019: Yes! This is superb. Right out of the gate I'm blown away. Taken far too long to get these on the list. An exceptional élévage has brought this wine to a place of great harmony, poise, and balance. Not the gangly teenager you see in many a young Beaujolais. This is a complete wine with impressive finesse over an underlying power. Dark cherry and spice, licorice and blood orange. Impressive depth and length, yet a sense of weight
Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre, Centre Loire
There’s Sauvignon and then there is Sauvignon from Sancerre. There’s Sancerre and then there is Dagenau. Then a pack chasing him. Mellot right at the front of that pack. Beautiful poise, delicacy and vertical long shape to the palate. Lovely bright fruit that has shifted beyond primary to aromas and flavours of intrigue. Crisp fine acid. This is an impressive drink. There’s a little passion fruit and gooseberry if you look for it. Overall it’s just a wonderful seemless Sauvignon Blanc.
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