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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
This is aromatically similar to the Petit Chablis with just a bit more Chablis typicity. There is also better-underlying tension and detail that suffuses the medium-bodied flavours that possess slightly more refinement, all wrapped in a more mineral-driven and drier finale. This is excellent for its level and a wine that could also be enjoyed young or held for up to a decade. Buy it. Drink 2029+ ♥ Outstanding Top valueAllen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points WK 90-92
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“Clear pale lemon. The nose does not really speak at this stage. The volume of fruit is present, but perhaps not quite the nobility. Perhaps this is just very backward, with saline and citrus notes, with clearly some concentration on the palate.” Jasper Morris 92-94 Points
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
“A paler colour and richer nose, some wood, some muscle. Gently concentrated, with some citrus, then a wealth more fruit on the second half of the palate, a surge of energy. A really very long finish."Jasper Morris 92-95
Chardonnay from Meursault, Côte du Beaune
There is a vague whiff of the exotic to the ripe, fresh and pretty aromas of roasted nut, mineral reduction, white peach and tangerine peel. There is superb intensity and cut to the dense and tautly muscular medium weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the youthfully austere and impressively persistent and distinctly lemony finish. This is terrific for its level and recommended. Outstanding Top value ♥ 2026+Allen Meadows, Burghound 91 Points
Pinot Noir from Beaune, Côte du Beaune
This is aromatically more complex but also more reserved with its nose of warm earth, poached plum, violet and softly sauvage nuances. There is good power and punch, if only average density, to the muscular and lightly stony medium weight flavors that display excellent length on the more youthfully austere finale. Excellent development potential here. (from a 1.26 ha holding; 50% whole clusters) 2032+Allen Meadows, Burghound (91-94) Points
Chardonnay from Beaune, Côte du Beaune
The chardonnay vines are at mid slope, which ripens early so the white Beaune Grèves has to be picked among the very first. Pale colour with a light green tint. Ripen rapidly so pick early. A lean and lively bouquet, attractive fresh fruit, quite nuanced, good acidity and quite persistent. Misses the mid palate volume which a red Beaune Grèves might have, but is attractive nonetheless. Drink from 2028-2034.Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy 89-91 PointsFrom vines planted 1999 in the m
Pinot Noir from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
The 2018 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru has a well-defined but stubbornly backward bouquet; perhaps this cuvée is beginning to close down as Moreau’s cellar cools in the winter. The palate is more expressive, offering chunky black fruit and even more peppery than the La Cardeuse due to the 50% whole bunch, although personally I might have dialed that down a little, as I find the finish a bit too stemmy at the moment.Neal Martin
Pinot Noir from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
Aromas of orange rind, plums, peonies and sweet spices preface the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and sumptuous wine that's deep and sapid, underpinned by lively acids and powdery tannins.William Kelley
Pinot Noir from Pommard, Côte du Beaune
A fresher mix is comprised by notes of both red and black cherry, dark raspberry, earth and a violet top note. There is fine volume and intensity to the bigger-bodied flavors that flash good minerality on the firm, powerful and focused finale. This could use better depth, but more should develop in time. 2030+ (from Rugiens Haut).Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
Check out Burghound's review! The last time we shipped a Ponsot Gevrey, it was the Domaine Ponsot Cuvée des Abeille. Ponsot’s modus of late picking always seemed to heighten this Gevrey villages primordial persona, and it’s good to note the leopard has not changed its spots. Ponsot’s sources in 2016 include purchased grapes (vinified by Laurent), and he has also bought a couple of barrels to augment the cuvée in this vintage. Regardless, Laurent has again fashioned an outstandingly
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
"A more floral suffused nose speaks of spiced aromas of red currant, cherry, violet and lavender. The fleshy, round and nicely refined flavors possess good delineation on the bitter cherry pit-inflected finish that offers just a bit more overall depth and persistence. Note that this will need at least a few years of cellaring first."Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
"Aromatically this too is markedly floral in character with its discreetly spiced nose of high-toned red currant, pomegranate and soft earth influence. There is both good vibrancy and detail to the round and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess fine length on the balanced finish if not quite the same lovely complexity. This mildly austere effort should age well over the medium to even longer-term. Drink 2030+."Allen Meadows, Burghound
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