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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Pinot Noir from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
The 2018 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru has a well-defined but stubbornly backward bouquet; perhaps this cuvée is beginning to close down as Moreau’s cellar cools in the winter. The palate is more expressive, offering chunky black fruit and even more peppery than the La Cardeuse due to the 50% whole bunch, although personally I might have dialed that down a little, as I find the finish a bit too stemmy at the moment.Neal Martin
Pinot Noir from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
Aromas of orange rind, plums, peonies and sweet spices preface the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, a medium to full-bodied, velvety and sumptuous wine that's deep and sapid, underpinned by lively acids and powdery tannins.William Kelley
Pinot Noir from Pommard, Côte du Beaune
A fresher mix is comprised by notes of both red and black cherry, dark raspberry, earth and a violet top note. There is fine volume and intensity to the bigger-bodied flavors that flash good minerality on the firm, powerful and focused finale. This could use better depth, but more should develop in time. 2030+ (from Rugiens Haut).Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
Check out Burghound's review! The last time we shipped a Ponsot Gevrey, it was the Domaine Ponsot Cuvée des Abeille. Ponsot’s modus of late picking always seemed to heighten this Gevrey villages primordial persona, and it’s good to note the leopard has not changed its spots. Ponsot’s sources in 2016 include purchased grapes (vinified by Laurent), and he has also bought a couple of barrels to augment the cuvée in this vintage. Regardless, Laurent has again fashioned an outstandingly
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
"A more floral suffused nose speaks of spiced aromas of red currant, cherry, violet and lavender. The fleshy, round and nicely refined flavors possess good delineation on the bitter cherry pit-inflected finish that offers just a bit more overall depth and persistence. Note that this will need at least a few years of cellaring first."Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
"Aromatically this too is markedly floral in character with its discreetly spiced nose of high-toned red currant, pomegranate and soft earth influence. There is both good vibrancy and detail to the round and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that possess fine length on the balanced finish if not quite the same lovely complexity. This mildly austere effort should age well over the medium to even longer-term. Drink 2030+."Allen Meadows, Burghound
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
"A ripe and wonderfully fresh nose also flashes plenty of classic Chablis character on the white-fleshed fruit and floral nose where background notes of iodine and oyster shell are present. The sleek, delicious and vibrant medium weight flavors exude evident minerality on the clean, dry and balanced finale where a touch of bitter lemon character slowly emerges. This impressively intense effort is a quality Chablis villages. Drink 2025+ ♥"Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
Ripe aromas of plum, black cherry and earth enjoy a floral top note accompanied by a hint of the sauvage. There is excellent volume to the suave and seductive yet sleek medium-bodied flavors that possess a caressing texture, all wrapped in a finer but equally structured finish. Good if not truly distinguished quality here. Drink: 2026+Allen Meadows, Burghound
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
This is openly floral with its pretty and relatively high-toned nose of fresh red currant, pomegranate and herbal tea aromas that are trimmed in a hint of the sauvage. The lively and sleekly textured middle weight flavors exude a subtle bead of minerality on the well-delineated yet supple finish that is supported by dusty tannins on the slightly warm finale. This is a very good Gevrey villages that isn't quite so structured but one that will still need at least a modicum of patience. Drink: 2027
Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
Lovers of flavourful Chardonnay will be happy here! Excellent gear. A step up in acid levels from 'Les Vergers'. Lovely flavour profile here. From Meadow's notes the flavour profiles is much the same. What clearly has changed over a couple of years in the bottle is the expression. No longer the shy, reticent teenager. Now a vivacious creature with a certain delicacy and that full flavoured profile I've come to expect from Amiot. The flow and texture across palate is excellent with a fine finish.
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
Stunning nose of Amarena cherry. Amazing concentration with wonderful elegance and vitality. Super-silky tannins for Nuits-Saint-Georges. Very long, intense yet delicate finish.95-96 Points, Stuart Pigott – James Suckling
Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune
A relatively high-toned and more elegant nose features notes of red currant, cherry, raspberry and a hint of lavender. The super-sleek, indeed almost lacy middle weight flavors display more minerality if less density before terminating in a lingering finish that tightens up noticeably on the dusty and mildly austere finale.Allen Meadows
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