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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Chardonnay from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits
Barthod’s Bourgogne Blanc, made from Chardonnay planted in the late 2010s. It was the estate’s first commercial white wine (they previously produced only tiny, family-use whites from old Pinot Beurot and Chardonnay vines). The Les Graviers vineyard, named for its stony soils and located near Les Bon Batons, on the edge of Chambolle, saw its first release from the 2020 vintage, with élevage set at 50% used 500-litre oak and 50% terracotta amphora. The 2023 is delicious: both fleshy and racy
Chardonnay from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits
Barthod’s Bourgogne Blanc, made from Chardonnay planted in the late 2010s. It was the estate’s first commercial white wine (they previously produced only tiny, family-use whites from old Pinot Beurot and Chardonnay vines). The Les Graviers vineyard, named for its stony soils and located near Les Bon Batons, on the edge of Chambolle, saw its first release from the 2020 vintage, with élevage set at 50% used 500-litre oak and 50% terracotta amphora. The 2023 is delicious: both fleshy and racy
Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims
Amid an ocean of Champagne Rosé this is one of the few that stands out! A Rosé with great poise, well balanced, with a great depth and length of fruit delicious Pinot fruit. No need to rely on excessive sugar to make up for poor fruit here! The texture and spice from the addition of a small percentage of red wine to colour the Rosé is just right adding intrigue and cleansing your palate. Rosé as it should be!
Gamay Noir from Morgon, Beaujolais
I thought Bouland, Thivin & Foillard were good! Superb Morgon. Jean-Marc’s Cote du Py is a cracker. So what do you get for coin when you head to the ‘James’? The answer … extra layers. Extra layers of flavour, layers of tannin. Yes, it’s bolder than the 2019 Cote du Py, yet it retains an elegance of fruit. The extra year has seen it relax a little, still tight though. It will reward you with time. 3 years will make an incredible difference. 5 more, although it’s hard not to resist ta
Pinot Noir from Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise
Give it a couple of days open or a few years in bottle and you'll go to a happy place. Reviews yet to come. Kelley's note below is of the 2020. Along with the Le Clos du Roy this represents one of the best value Burgundies on the market.As I wrote earlier this year, Faiveley's 2019 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands is a success, delivering aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums, espresso roast and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a
Chenin Blanc from Anjou, D'Anjou-Saumur
The Anjou Blanc was previously produced from bought-in fruit, but the 2021 vintage was made up of 50% of the estate's fruit. Tasted after being opened for three days, it has taken on an added richness and roundness that wasn't previously there. There's a mere soupçon of flinty character. Intense and precise, with laser-like acidity flying through the mouth like an arrow. The finish is nutty, pastry and lightly salty, lingering with the merest tonic-like bitterness.Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous 91
Pinot Noir from Premeaux-Prissey, Côte-de-Nuits
Ripe red berry fruit aromas are liberally cut with spice and earth nuances. There is fine volume and richness for a Bourgogne with its delicious and vibrant middle weight flavors that display some rusticity on the youthfully austere finale. This is a quality effort for the genre and a wine that should easily repay 3 to 5 years of cellaring. Drink 2027+Allen Meadows, Burghound 87 PointsThe 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has an open nose with wild strawberry, raspberry and light marmalade scents
Chardonnay from Rully, Côte Chalonnaise
Airy aromas include those of lemon-lime, sliced apple and a whiff of petrol. There is both good volume and punch to the delicious middle weight flavors that conclude in a clean, dry and lingering finish where a touch of bitter citrus rind adds to the refreshing appeal. This is a quality effort for the genre. Drink 2026+Allen Meadows, Burghound 87 Points ♥ OutstandingThe 2022 Bourgogne Blanc comes from vines in Puligny by Vincent's grandfather Maurice Dureuil and is matured in 20% n
Pinot Noir from Monthelie, Côte du Beaune
Here the expressive nose is spicier and a bit more floral as well with its baked plum, black cherry and soft earth scents. I very much like the texture of the medium-bodied flavors that are more precise if not quite as rich or powerful, all wrapped in a mildly sweet finish where a touch of warmth slowly emerges. While qualitatively similar, the texture of this and the Les Duresses are like night and day.Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points
Chenin Blanc from Vouvray, Touraine
“The 2021 Clos du Bourg Sec is an ample, full bodied wine with a stream of acidity. Pure, floral and fragrant with aromas of pineapple, violets and fresh grapes. While rich, it is light in sensation, like a cloud of Chenin filling the mouth, and finishes with a fine, almost powdery and chalky texture.”Rebecca Gibb, Vinous 95 Points
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn chiefly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru vines of Vaugiraut/Vosgros). All up, the domaine works with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, lifting the standard in general. The 2021 Chablis was picked over various dates, dep
Chardonnay from Chablis, Burgundy
Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn chiefly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru vines of Vaugiraut/Vosgros). All up, the domaine works with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, lifting the general standard. The fruit is pressed gently over four hours and ferme
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