Soldera

Gianfranco Soldera’s Sangiovese is an incredible wine, you almost don’t have to drink it the aroma is that good. Incredible complexity, layering, beautifully refined, perfectly developed, yet youthful. Soldera’s wine have a level of precision that you rarely see. I can see why others have picked Grand Cru Burgundy as an option in blind tastings. Incredibly sophisticated, yet with such divine lingering flavours. Hopefully, I’ll see another bottle in the glass soon!

Soldera’s 100% Sangiovese from Azienda Agricola Case Basse, had been on my wishlist for some time. A visit from a good friend became the catalyst for that wish to come true. You know who you are, thank you! Over five hours drinking a bottle of 2009 was a chameleon, changing with every sniff.

About Soldera

Dedication to Exceptional Quality

Gianfranco and Graziella Soldera have conceived a project based on two deep-felt beliefs:

1. Quality production needs a complex ecosystem that makes up the ideal habitat for natural cultivation,

2. Past experience must be compared with innovation born from research. The culture of the past, i.e. from insight and developed by farming experience, must be respected but also rationally included and verified with the most modern experimentation techniques.

Thus Nature and its laws can be complied with, in order to express the maximum potential and avoid exploiting the soil and crops.

An article in The World of Fine Wine “Soldera: The Great Outsider” explores the estate’s history and philosophy in great depth and is worth a read.

Soldera’s website shares great insight into Gianfranco’s deep thought, desire to back it with science, at the same time as applying a very human touch made gentle by years of experience. His column share insights of the day to day workings at Soldera is particularly illuminating.

In a nutshell, it comes down to a few simple things. Gianfranco’s vineyards are in a great spot, they are cared for with precision and the resultant fruit is of exceptional quality.

To age his wines for 5 years in a barrel is a testament to the quality of fruit. He places no limits on mentoring exceptional wine all the way to the bottle.

The wines have incredible purity and harmony.

Balancing Science, Nature & Touch

Coming from a non-wine related background, the approach Gianfranco has taken has blended science with touch. Critical elements of the environment, vineyard, microflora, winery process literally being put under the microscope. The purpose not to make technical wine, but, to prevent issues by having an in-depth scientific understanding thereby avoiding the use of technology to fix problems.

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He initiated The Soldera Award, to support young research all over the world investigating critical aspects of wine production, such is the extent to which he believes in understanding the science of grapes and wine.

Where in the World is Soldera?

Case Basse estate, in the Brunello subzone of Tavernelle, southwest of Montalcino itself. As Kerin O’Keefe explains in her Brunello di Montalcino: Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy’s Greatest Wines (2012), this area, especially around the small church of Santa Restituta [around which Gaja’s Brunello holdings are planted], has long been recognized as a source of outstanding Sangiovese:

“Averaging between 300 and 350m (984 and 1,148ft) above sea level, fresh nocturnal breezes cool down hot daytime temperatures during the growing season, generating aromas and complexity. The vineyards are also elevated far enough above damaging spring and autumn frost and fog, but when compared to higher areas are just low enough to enjoy warmer temperatures that guarantee more consistent ripening. In fact, most producers in this area feel they have the best of everything: perfect altitude combined with complex and predominantly rocky, well-draining soils as well as warmer temperatures.”

Drinking Soldera

I will simply make two points: 1. Do not drink it with too many people; 2. Make sure you reserve 8 hours to enjoy it!