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The jewel in the Sordo’s Crown are the Cru Barolos made from Nebbiolo. 8 in total from Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato. There is exceptional value to be had with the Normales from Barbaresco, Barolo, and wine like the Rapuje Langhe Rosso to name a few. It’s hard to go wrong with pretty much anything from their stable.
Sordo HQ is nestled in the corner of Castiglione Falletto comune on the last stretch of the Alba-Barolo road before it takes that left fork up to Barolo village. You take this track (Frazione Garbelletto) just to the left for Paolo Scavino and Azelia, or right another 100 metres to the entrance of the Sordo family’s quite spectacular and beautiful new cellar.
While the sheer impact and architectural quality of this new facility is eye-catching, it’s the wines that demand even more attention. For sheer consistent excellence of this number of wines made in an essentially traditional and unforced style, it is impossible not to take note of the wines of A A Giovanni Sordo . These wines have been described as ‘transparent’ and they are made by people who want their wines to speak of where they come from.
One of the really fascinating themes to a Sordo tasting is that all the Baroli are made as identically as is realistic. Vinification is in controlled temperature (to 30oC) steel & cuve with submerged caps for up to 50 days. A further 2-4 months in steel, is followed by 24 months in large Slavonian botti. Giorgio Sordo likes the wines to have a further 4-6 months in steel, to “freshen them up” before bottling. Aha, so these are the secrets to transparency?
While they release 8 Cru’s, Sordo own of 17 parcels of Barolo cru
And what places these wines come from! Since the very early 20th century, generations of the Sordo family have been quietly collecting parcels of the finest Nebbiolo-growing dirt in the Langhe. They now have numerous plots of vines in Roero, Barbaresco and particularly Barolo – where they actually own 17 pieces of cru classified vineyard and release an unprecedented 8 labelled (Barolo) cru wines from these, so far.
These are a cavalcade of Barolo’s most famous names – many of them appearing in any list of Barolo’s Top 10 cru; Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato; the one most thought was Giuseppe Mascarello’s monopole, isn’t quite. Sordo started making theirs from 2012. Prior to that, it’s been going into the normale.
David Ridge, Neb-Head, responsible for bringing the likes of Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa to Australia shared his incredible depth of knowledge of all things Barolo in a session at Wine Decoded HQ. David spent a couple of hours with us tasting through all 8 Cru’s made by Sordo. Yes, that is right, 8 Cru’s from one producer!
There is so much gold in David’s insights, you’re going to need to watch or listen a couple of times … preferably with a glass in hand.
Prior to trying the wines, I asked myself, will this result in confusion and seeing a jack of all trades and master of none. After smelling the Langhe Neb, Barbaresco and Barolo Normale I realised the reality, was going to be the complete opposite. All of the wines were superb individual and delicious! Given the geographic and varietal spread we work with in Australia, it was a silly thought really. Here’s a family working with one variety over an area that is 10km wide and 15km long (excluding the Roero and Barbaresco fruit). Compared to some of my past winemaking experience working across multiple regions hundreds of km’s apart, spanning a dozen varietals, they have some serious focus!
We recorded the session, and, now, share it with the Wine Decoded community. We introduce you to Nebbiolo, take you through the geology of Barolo and its impact on the wines, 5 of the 11 Communes that make up the Barolo region, and, 8 special Cru’s including some of the rarest and most sought after in the world!
Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo” 2.0 the 2016’s
Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo” 1.0 the 2015’s
Get in touch with us before you next head to Barolo and we’ll get you connected to the Sorodo Crew!
Sordo is based in Castiglione Falletto, Barolo.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
I haven't tried the 2013. If the 2015 is anything to go by this will be stunning! The most ‘Burgundian’ of these 8 cru, shimmering and transparent, signalling the elegance and finesse to unfold. A beautiful and intriguing wine with those Castiglione complexities of cranberry, strawberry, cherry-skin, dried flowers and herbs. Tannins are beautifully bound with the acid line, the finish becomes seamless and tingling. Worthy of the Villero name. Vietti's is now $900 a bottle! Dense garnet colo
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2008 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2015. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange and spices. T
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Sordo's Parussi always sits on the bolder side for the Cru, which it turns out has split soil types. Theirs being on soils more similar to those of Serralunga. The resulting structure shows in the wine. The 2008 is drinking beautifully, showing darker fruits and like the other 2008 Sordos seamless, with exceptional harmony and balance.This is such a great opportunity to look at different Crus in a horizontal from one producer!Matured Barolo straight from the cellars of Sordo ... Bring It
It's fascinating the from one of Barolos Northern most Crus in Monvigliero, moving to one of the Southern most in Ravera from Novello we see two Crus that are more playful and expressive in their youth. Here we typically see supple tannins, oppulent red fruits with front to mid-palate attack. Again the metamorphosis only time can offer us really is something special.Here's a chance to see a Ravera with a decade+ of bottle age on it and find out just how it transforms!This is such a great
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Perno, always the darkest and most structured on release, is perhaps the wine in the Sordo Cru lineup that goes through the most dramatic metamorphosis with time. Monforte is the least defined of the Barolo Communes, the end result is a diversity of styles. Barolo from Monforte can have incredible power, darknesss and earthiness, less reliant on fruit than other communes, in recent times we have soon producers making finer, elegant, perfumed iterations. Sordo's Perno sits in the middle, perhaps
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! Winery Direct from an exceptional Barolo Year! Update Dec 2023 Devoured at a Christmas function, the 2004 Perno is right in the zone. Sitting in that perfectly mature spot. Earthy and truffled, seamless and harmonious, poised, balanced, flowing and delicious. This aged Barolo is in its prime drinking beautifully.A perfect match to dry-aged duck breast with a white truffle and cured cherry sauce at Al Dente.From my experience o
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2004 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2016, 2015 & 2008. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
As tight as ... usual. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. Fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. Crystal clear. Darker more broody than the 2015 which had a few more months off the boat when I first saw it. Fresh and vibrant / energetic. Bold, yet very good long, layered slatey tannins compared with the 2015. Wonderful texture h
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Earthy and savoury with great depth and length. Incredible core of fruit. So many layers of flavour and tannin, just so much to get from this wine. Such purity, detail, so fine, it draws you in! Update Nov 2024: Drinking superbly. Incredible complexity. Layered with fine, long, flowing tannins. Ridgey's cranberries and faded flowers on full display. Delicious, expressive drinking straight out of the gate showing the typical immediate approachability of Sordo (and many other's) 2015 Barolos. Cle
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Wow! A sensational Rocche. At this early stage in its life it sit with harmony, together. Expressive, a long even palate, stunning tannins that caress. The perfume is intoxicating, faded flowers of Castiglione Falletto. A superb core of fruit of exceptional length.Year in year out this is in the top 3 of Sordo 8 Barolo Crus. It looks like this year will be no different. Savoury, a little salty and earthy. This will be long lived. Beautifullly composed.
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
A wonderful expression of Serralunga, all of the tea, slate, graphite, exceptional quality tannins, with a presence and sophistication. The firm mouthfeel of seriously good Serralunga tannins. Again such a complete wine. The nose draws you in. Begging you to drink. A darkness and energy that is palpable.Impressive gear. Precise, and pure, wearing the vineyard and commune on its sleeve. Superb fruit of depth and length. Great drinking here with much much more to come.
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This is the best Monprivato Sordo has made. So I need to go and pop the cork on a 2016 and 2015 ... just to make sure! Sordo's Monprivato has moved up the ladder a couple of rungs this year.The pedigree of this vineyard sees it sitting alongside Villero as one of the finest Barolo vineyards. At ½ the price of Giuseppe Mascarello’s this is exceptional value. An elegance yet intensity, the delicacy that is the hallmark of Monprivato when on song is here. Some would use the term Burgundian,
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