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The jewel in the Sordo’s Crown are the Cru Barolos made from Nebbiolo. 8 in total from Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato. There is exceptional value to be had with the Normales from Barbaresco, Barolo, and wine like the Rapuje Langhe Rosso to name a few. It’s hard to go wrong with pretty much anything from their stable.
Sordo HQ is nestled in the corner of Castiglione Falletto comune on the last stretch of the Alba-Barolo road before it takes that left fork up to Barolo village. You take this track (Frazione Garbelletto) just to the left for Paolo Scavino and Azelia, or right another 100 metres to the entrance of the Sordo family’s quite spectacular and beautiful new cellar.
While the sheer impact and architectural quality of this new facility is eye-catching, it’s the wines that demand even more attention. For sheer consistent excellence of this number of wines made in an essentially traditional and unforced style, it is impossible not to take note of the wines of A A Giovanni Sordo . These wines have been described as ‘transparent’ and they are made by people who want their wines to speak of where they come from.
One of the really fascinating themes to a Sordo tasting is that all the Baroli are made as identically as is realistic. Vinification is in controlled temperature (to 30oC) steel & cuve with submerged caps for up to 50 days. A further 2-4 months in steel, is followed by 24 months in large Slavonian botti. Giorgio Sordo likes the wines to have a further 4-6 months in steel, to “freshen them up” before bottling. Aha, so these are the secrets to transparency?
While they release 8 Cru’s, Sordo own of 17 parcels of Barolo cru
And what places these wines come from! Since the very early 20th century, generations of the Sordo family have been quietly collecting parcels of the finest Nebbiolo-growing dirt in the Langhe. They now have numerous plots of vines in Roero, Barbaresco and particularly Barolo – where they actually own 17 pieces of cru classified vineyard and release an unprecedented 8 labelled (Barolo) cru wines from these, so far.
These are a cavalcade of Barolo’s most famous names – many of them appearing in any list of Barolo’s Top 10 cru; Ravera, Monvigliero, Parussi, Perno and Gabutti and the revered Castiglione Falletto trio of Villero, Rocche di Castiglione and the elusive Monprivato; the one most thought was Giuseppe Mascarello’s monopole, isn’t quite. Sordo started making theirs from 2012. Prior to that, it’s been going into the normale.
David Ridge, Neb-Head, responsible for bringing the likes of Bartolo Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa to Australia shared his incredible depth of knowledge of all things Barolo in a session at Wine Decoded HQ. David spent a couple of hours with us tasting through all 8 Cru’s made by Sordo. Yes, that is right, 8 Cru’s from one producer!
There is so much gold in David’s insights, you’re going to need to watch or listen a couple of times … preferably with a glass in hand.
Prior to trying the wines, I asked myself, will this result in confusion and seeing a jack of all trades and master of none. After smelling the Langhe Neb, Barbaresco and Barolo Normale I realised the reality, was going to be the complete opposite. All of the wines were superb individual and delicious! Given the geographic and varietal spread we work with in Australia, it was a silly thought really. Here’s a family working with one variety over an area that is 10km wide and 15km long (excluding the Roero and Barbaresco fruit). Compared to some of my past winemaking experience working across multiple regions hundreds of km’s apart, spanning a dozen varietals, they have some serious focus!
We recorded the session, and, now, share it with the Wine Decoded community. We introduce you to Nebbiolo, take you through the geology of Barolo and its impact on the wines, 5 of the 11 Communes that make up the Barolo region, and, 8 special Cru’s including some of the rarest and most sought after in the world!
Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo” 2.0 the 2016’s
Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo” 1.0 the 2015’s
Get in touch with us before you next head to Barolo and we’ll get you connected to the Sorodo Crew!
Sordo is based in Castiglione Falletto, Barolo.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Took the second longest to reveal more of itself. Like the other wines in the bracket it demands time in the bottle. Perfume combined with secondary complexity the name of the game here! This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Firm, taut and fleshy, this is typical of this part of Perno, the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Tannins seem very ripe this year…but they
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
"Very serious and brooding nose, with rusty iron and fresh blood. Super-layered palate with depth and great presence. Palate is pretty and delicate, yet also very serious with a deep core of darker fruit, rusty iron and some fresh leather. Great length with lovely lingering tannins." Peter Godden, Neb Guru. Fabulous, both in itself and as a contrast to Villero. Where Villero is delicate and persistent, all finesse, Rocche is much more forceful with a similar range of characters. Everything is d
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Bigger than most other wines, with more grunt in all respects. Complex. Chewy and very full palate with a wall of tannins. Meaty flavours with some ironstone. Old-school. Peter Godden, Neb Guru This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Firm, taut and fleshy, this is typical of this part of Perno, the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Tannins seem very ripe this year�
Ravera = generosity with crunchy fruit and playful front mid-palate tannin, that Sordo élévage, so much fun! ‘Ravishing red’ as usual, a wave of roses and red cherry. Quite lush, but holds its shape as all that red rolls to the pinpoint, tingling finish. It’s no wonder Ravera has risen so much in people’s estimation over recent years. Serious Barolo of a distinct style. Big and dense in colour, and all other respects. Big and chewy in mouth, yet fine line and varietal shape, with rich
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Superb! An excellent Villero. Complete, pure, elegant, refined, such harmony in its youth bodes well for a little something special with the passage of time. The first time I had Sordo’s Villero was the 2015 and it blew my mind. 2013, 2016, 2017 followed. All superb. The 2019 is right up there. Seriously good.Right now across all the 2019's the acid sits marginally proud. For wines of this calibre I'm stoked to see the balance where it’s at in their youth. In just a few years it will r
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Ooh. Wow. So dense in aromatics that it’s hard to label them! Wait. Simply fabulous and the star of this first tasting. Insanely good, incredibly complete. Benchmark stuff. Such a fragrance! This is mind boggling. Wonderful flow length+++. The sophistication of tannins here is insane. Here we see an incredibly complete wine. Such sophistication and power. There’s an elegance and lithe nature to this incredibly powerful beauty. The flowers are intoxicating. Again length +++. The sophisticat
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. The tannins show the benefit of a long ripening season. Yes, they have structure, they are damn fine tannins of exceptional depth and length. Hints of tobacco, earth, savoury bits and such a long deep core of fruit. This will develop beautifull
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasure to be had. Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. As David puts it, it’s chubby. Immediate generosity on the nose. So much aroma and flavour. Mid-palate fruit weight here is insane. Rich and chocolatey with savoury dark fruit, hints of that faded flowers and tobacco. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasu
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Again a controlled, blockbuster, with layers of dried and fading flowers, tobacco, cranberry and cherry liqueur. Huge, almost sweet palate. Long, but tight and relatively unevolved still, of course. Will be superb again. Such a complete wine yet tightly coiled and the moment, everything in it’s place and place for everything. Incredible tannin profile this year. Such lovely ripe nutty tannins of serious depth. The core of fruit is exceptional and long. Mouth filling, I so want to see a bottle
Very recognisable again; the graphite and generous almost smoky black cherry/prune announces a Monvigliero. This is both expressive now, yet clearly very classy. Superb, the flint, the slate, the dark sour cherries, such length. Incredible wine. A hint of macerative, grape marc character, again energy, vibrancy. Nice florals. Tannins that almost remind me of a little whole bunch will resolve. Should be a fun evolution for this one. This has a wonderful personality.Very recognisable again; th
A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. The sophistication of the front mid-palate tannin is there. The refreshing balanced acidity. Playful yet leveling up to serious. A lythe yet present flavour profile.Aha - this red cherry and brick-dust opening is be
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Incredible perfume, so much intrigue. Felt like I was drinking and exceptional Chambolle-Musigny. Line and length of tannin and acid. Such harmony, beautiful fruit. Layers of tannin and flavour, great complexity. I love this! The most ‘Burgundian’ of these 8 cru, shimmering and transparent, signalling the elegance and finesse to unfold. A beautiful and intriguing wine with those Castiglione complexities of cranberry, strawberry, cherry-skin, dried flowers and herbs. Tannins are beautifully b
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