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Back in 2002 Warren & I did the Advanced Wine Assessment Course at the Australian Wine Research Institute. At the time most of the palates in the room were very new world / OZ focused, few had experienced enough ‘Euro piss’ to get their heads around it. The styles between new and old world were much more distinct than today. Warren was one in the room who had a the understanding of what made great one from both new and old world. A winemaker with a very sharp palate.
Fast forward a year and I found myself in Hawkes Bay meeting at Esk Valley Estate for a winemaking position.
Naturally I took the opportuntity to drink with Warren & Lorraine. A time when I had hair and was charged with building the BBQ if we were going to eat!
It was clear the potential of Hawkes Bay to make great wine was starting to being realised. At the front of the queue, Warren looking after Trinity Hills and establishing Bilancia with Lorraine.
There’s a great diversity of sites in Hawke’s Bay. Most are relatively flat, some on rolling hills. Around those hills, the geology like much of New Zealand, running along a fault line, can be extreme. Warren & Lorraine, not afraid of a little manual labour decided to plant on a virtual cliff face!
As much as the name Bilancia is about equilibrium and harmony, I reckon you could add staying upright, balanced, whilst working their ‘la collina’ vineyard by hand!
Showing of wines
Shiraz/Syrah from Hawke's Bay, North Island
This comes from 20 yo vines from property next door with some La Collina pressings.Subtle, the flow here is more even long & supple than the 2019. Mid-weight with excellent red dark and spiced fruit, sophisticated and elegant. Musk, perfume, flow. Fresh elegant, sophisticated. Energetic and fresh and thirst quenching. Beautifully weighted. Fine long even. Lovely build in tannin. Subtle sophisticated spice and a little licorice. Very bloody good!Tasting the 2020 with Warren and L
Chardonnay from Hawke's Bay, North Island
Delicious fine long acid, a little funk and cracked yeast coming through. Loads of energy and freshness. A presence line and length of fruit, subtle oak, excellent flow. Citrus and hints of pith. Fun vino great expression. Energy. Sophistication.Grown on a Central Hawkes Bay vineyard of decomposed clay one of the soils of Sancerre.Tasting the 2020 with Warren and Lorraine last year was inspiring.The family and a few friends banded together to pick this in the enforced Covid bubbles o
Shiraz/Syrah from Hawke's Bay, North Island
Bilancia's 'La Collina' is New Zealand's Syrah equivalent TeMata's 'Coleraine' Bordeaux blend. The only challenge, they make a minuscule volume. Australia might see 10 dozen for the country!Tasting the 2020 with Warren and Lorraine last year was inspiring.A little lift that blows off. Interesting fresh energy, redder fruit. Even long detailed fine tannins, with a playful edge. The length and depth. Poise balance perfume, underlying savoury edge. Excellent balance. This will be stunning i
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