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The variety takes its name from the village of Chardonnay near Uchizy in the Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy. A region gaining in reputation for the production of delicious Chardonnay. Thought to have originated from Sâone-et-Loire between Lyon and Dijon.
Burgundy is the mythical home of Chardonnay. From there it spreads far and wide across the world. One of the three main varieties of Champagne production, we also see massive plantings in Australia and North America. You’ll find it somewhere in pretty much every wine growing country.
In Australia 340,000 tonnes of Chardonnay grapes are harvested each year over four times more than the No.2 white grape in Australia, Sauvignon Blanc!
There are a vast array of flavours, aromas, and, textures that Chardonnay can offer from the fruit alone, add in use of solid, fermentation vessels like oak, eggs, and tanks, and, malolactic fermentation, the sky is the limit.
Chardonnay has incredible versatility and can be picked over quite a wide range of sugar levels and flavour ripeness. The same vineyard can be picked with enough sugar to make a wine of 10-11% alcohol for sparkling production and then 14% for table wine with anything in between possible. Picked earlier it tends to have more citrus and green apple characters. Picked ripper the natural acidity drops and the flavours progress through stone fruit, to pineapple, fig and melon.
The hand of the winemaker has been particularly evident in Australia over the last 20 years. Starting with big, broad, alcoholic full malo styles in the 1980’s and 1990’s, the pendulum swung to the lean, acid driven styles in Australia in the mid-00’s, with some down right mean wines produced in the cooler climates like the Yarra Valley, Adelaide Hills, Mornington, and, Tasmania. Currently, styles have found balance with generosity and elegance. Australian Chardonnay is the best it has ever been. Restrained oak use is thankfully the norm, and, globally we are seeing greater use of larger oak barrels, reducing the influence of any new oak.
Use of wild fermentation, malolactic fermentation and grape solids in ferments can add an array of secondary aromas and flavours, nuttiness, creaminess, bakery notes, butteriness, funk.
Some makers have played heavily with reduction in Chardonnay often resulting in flinty, burnt match characters.
In Burgundy, climate change, just as in Australia (along with mature vineyards) has seen picking times bought forward with sugar levels maintaining. The degree of chaptalisation in Burgundy is reducing and is often not required at all.
Check out all the articles in the Wine Bites Mag exploring Chardonnay.
Showing of wines
Chardonnay from Puligny-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
Here the elegant nose is cooler and more restrained with a much more discreet application of wood framing the layered spicy aromas of honeysuckle, white peach and a variety of floral nuances. The notably more refined and beautifully textured flavors possess excellent mid-palate concentration before terminating in a persistent, balanced and markedly dry finale that is unusually powerful. This BBM is terrific and classy, indeed it’s impressively poised for such a young wine. (from a .46 ha holdi
Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
An exuberantly floral-suffused nose is replete with notes of spicy white orchard fruit, petrol, citrus confit and barely perceptible wood influence. There is better volume and power to the broad-shouldered that possess good if not special mid-palate density before terminating in a citrus-influenced finish that is compact, long and impeccably well-balanced. This too would benefit from developing better depth so at least 5 to 7 years of keeping would be the roughly expected minimum. Drink: 2033+
Chardonnay from Aloxe-Corton, Côte du Beaune
First produced in 2009, Ponsot’s Corton-Charlemagne is drawn from two parcels, both in Aloxe: one on the Pernand border in Le Charlemagne and the second in Les Languettes. As you can see from the notes below, this is a deep, fleshy yet energetic and vibrant Charlemagne. A great success!“Split equally between fruit from Les Languettes and Le Charlemagne on the Aloxe side, this was a slow fermenter. It didn't finish its alcoholic fermentation until July 2021! As they say, good things c
Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
The barest hint of exotic fruit floats in the background of the elegant, pure and layered aromas of orange peel, passion fruit, white peach, acacia blossom and a whiff of jasmine tea. There is outstanding volume and power for such young vines to the medium weight plus flavors that deliver impressive persistence on the agreeably dry and beautifully well-balanced finale. This also needs better depth though again, that should simply be a question of allowing sufficient time. This too is excellent
Chardonnay from Puligny-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
This is at once more floral and a bit riper as well with its liqueur-like nose of vaguely exotic scents, especially white peach, passion fruit, crushed fennel and jasmine tea. The mouthfeel of bigbodied yet gorgeously textured broad-shouldered flavors exude evident minerality, indeed this is akin to rolling rocks around the palate, all wrapped in a bone-dry, citrus and hugely long finish. This is an imposingly-scaled and overly powerful Chevalierthat should amply repay 10 to 15 years of keeping.
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