Size & Type
Other
$254
Bougros sits on a very steep slope, with a gradient of more than 30%, facing due south at the foot of the hill. The shallow soil, a mixture of clay and gravel, prevents excessive yields resulting in complex, robust wines.
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Back in the early naughties, we were hoovering Chablis from the early 1970’s. When the Tsunami hit, wheelbarrows of Grand & 1er Cru’s were arriving from the auction at houses at around $14 a bottle. By the time it receded, they were up at a round $40 a bottle and still a bargain. Purity, complexity, amazing texture, lovely lines of acid were the hallmarks of these incredible wines. Testut et Fréres Grenouille featured! Such a great vineyard.
Fèvre is a major producer that boasts one of the most impressive arrays of Premier and Grand Crus. Didier Séguier has been head winemaker for several years now. Under Séguier guidance, the Domaine veered away from their rather zealous oak regime to a more prudent approach that mixes barrel ageing with stainless steel.
The domain uses old barrels with an average age of 6 years rather than new oak, in order to preserve freshness and minerality and enable the subtle nuances of Chablis’ terroirs to fully express themselves.
1959, the year in which William Fèvre declared his first crop, marked the birth of the domain. Descended from a family which had lived in the Chablis region for over 250 years, it was only natural that he set up as a winemaker with 7 hectares of vineyards.
Over the years the domain has acquired new vineyards in Chablis, all located in the historic terroirs. William Fèvre has become one of the biggest land owners in Chablis with 78 hectares of prestigious vineyards, of which 15.9 are classified as Premiers Crus and 15.2 as Grand Crus.
“Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2017 as “another complicated early start to the growing season because we had ten consecutive nights at the end of April with below 0. In particular, our parcels of Montée de Tonnerre, Vaulorent and the grands crus were more heavily affected than the others. After a cool and relatively wet spring, the summer weather and disease pressure were what I would call correct and while it was certainly warm, it wasn’t so warm as to have burned away all the supporting acidity. We chose to begin picking on the 4th of September and brought in impeccably clean fruit with good maturity if varying maturity levels. This is to say that potential alcohols varied between 11 and 13% with fine acid levels that are almost as good as 2010 or 2014. Yields were also quite variable and while the average was right at 40 hl/ha, the 1ers came in between 35 and 40 hl/ha but the grands crus were 15 to 30 hl/ha. The post-malo pHs settled out at between 3.15 and 3.25 with total acidities of 4.2 to 4.6 gm/L. During the élevage I did absolutely no lees stirring though when we racked, I basically kept all of the lees. As to the style of the 2017s, I would describe them as super-pure and concentrated, indeed they could be thought of as being like 2014 but not quite as fresh. Moreover I think that they will age extremely well.” I have mentioned this before but it bears repeating so readers will not be surprised: for several years now Fèvre has elected to bottle its entire range, including the grands crus, under the Diam cork” Burghound
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There’s a chalky definition on the nose here that is really striking; it combines with fresh lime juice and aromas of lime oil, as well as green mangoes. The palate is so juicy and so succulent and offers a seamlessly smooth run of white peaches, wrapped tight with fresh acidity and turning gently savory at the finish. Drink or hold.
The 2017 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouquerots Grand Cru, picked around 23hl/ha, has a detailed bouquet with Granny Smith, grass clipping, white flower and orange pith scents that are very well defined and seem to gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little fatter and weightier than the regular Bougros with quite an intense, saline finish. Excellent.
Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel at the bottom section of the vineyard; even so, the vineyard is so steep here that it must be worked entirely by hand as tractors would be dangerous to use.
A deft touch of wood can be found on the cool and equally pure aromas of various citrus, spiced pear and oyster shell hints. There is fine density and punch to the brooding and powerful large-scaled flavors that brim with minerality on the tightly coiled bitter lemon-inflected finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces. Tasted: October 15 2018, Drink: 2024+ Issue: 72
Where in the world does the magic happen?
William FEVRE, Rue Jules Rathier, Chablis, France
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Riesling | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Riesling | Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
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