France

Loire Valley

The Loire Valley is scattered over 175,000 acres stretching from the Atlantic Ocean across to central France.

Covering such a large region it is natural that it’s been broken down into sub-regions that specialise in the growing of specific varieties.

Whites

The 3 main varietals are Melon de Bourgogne, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc.

Other varietals include Folle Blanche, Chardonnay, Chasselas, Romorantin Sauvignon Gris and Tressalier.

These are made into dry, semi-sweet, sweet and sparkling wines, mostly single varietal.

Melon de Bourgogne

Native to: Burgundy (Bourgogne). Introduced by monks in the 17th century.

Principal AOCs: Muscadet, Muscadet-Coteaux-de-la-Loire, Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine, Muscadet Côtes-de-Grandlieu. Muscadets Crus Communaux: Gorges, Clisson, Le Pallet, Loire Valley PGI

Chenin, also known as: Pineau de Loire

Native to: The Loire Valley. Around the 10th century, this variety was known as “Plant d’Anjou.” The current name was popularised by Rabelais in the 15th century.

Principal AOCs: Anjou-Blanc, Bonnezeaux, Quarts-de-Chaume-Grand-Cru, Coteaux-du-Layon, Coteaux-Du-Layon-Premier-Cru-Chaume, Savennières, Savennières-Roche-Aux-Moines, Coteaux-de-l’Aubance, Anjou-Coteaux-de-La-Loire, Coteaux-de-Saumur, Crémant-de-Loire, Saumur-Blanc, Saumur-Brut, Touraine, Touraine-Amboise, Touraine-Mesland, Chinon, Jasnières, Coteaux-du-Loir, Vouvray,  coteaux-du-vendômois, Loire Valley PGI

Sauvignon Blanc

Native to: Loire Valley

Principal AOCs: Perhaps the most famous AOCs are Pouilly Fumé and Sancerre. Other AOC’s producing Sauvignon Blanc include Touraine, Touraine-Mesland, Touraine-Oisly, Touraine-Chenonceaux, Haut-Poitou, Loire Valey PGI, Quincy and Reuilly.

Reds

The 3 main varietals are Cabernet Franc, Gamay and Pinot Noir.

Other varietals include : Grolleau, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d’Aunis, Côt and Négrette.

Used to make reds, rosés and sparkling wines, mostly as single varietals.

Cabernet Franc , also known as: Breton

Native to: the Nantes region, but thought to come from the Basque Country in Spain. It is the Loire region’s chief red varietal, introduced in the 11th century.

Principal AOCs: Anjou-Rouge, Anjou-Villages, Anjou-Villages-Brissac, Cabernet-d’Anjou, Cabernet-de-Saumur, Rosé-d’Anjou, Rosé-de-Loire, Crémant-de-Loire, Saumur-Rouge, Saumur-Champigny, Saumur-Puy-Notre-Dame, Saumur-Brut, Touraine, Touraine-Amboise, Touraine-Chenonceaux, Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau, Touraine-Mesland, Coteaux-du-Loir, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Chinon, haut-poitou, Loire Valley PGI

Gamay

Native to: The Centre-East region of France.

Principal AOCs: Anjou-Gamay, Rosé-de-Loire, Rosé-d’Anjou, Touraine, Touraine-Azay-Le-Rideau, Touraine-Mesland, Coteaux-du-Loir, Loire Valley PGI

Pinot Noir

Native to: Burgundy.

Principal AOCs: Touraine, Touraine-Noble-Joué, Loire Valley PGI

Domaine Roche Neuves

The White

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur Blanc 'l'Insolite' 2021

Chenin Blanc from Saumur, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur Blanc ‘l’Insolite’ 2021

Pretty, fine, long, textured & rich. Quince fruit with lovely caressing phenolics & a refreshing finish. A faint lick of green leafy herbs chervil or tarragon. Fine, a lovely pithy finish cleansing with a little bitterness. Wild ferment in 1200 stockingers 600 barrels. Fresh & thirst-quenching. Opened beautifully in the glass. Yum! Out to play now with plenty to come.

Vintage 2021
$95
$91ea in any 3+
$87ea in any 6+
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Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur Blanc 'Clos de l'Échelier' 2021
Bone Dry!

Chenin Blanc from Saumur, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur Blanc ‘Clos de l’Échelier’ 2021

Stunning Chenin Blanc to Rival the Drinking Pleasure of 1er Cru White Burg & the Worlds Best Dry Rizza!So fine. Superbly textured. Stunning acid of epic length, piercing long and lovely. Fruit length and depth continue to build epically long after swallowing. Incredibly complex & layered. Such depth. Citrus, lemon, a little white grapefruit, pear & quince, garrigue woody herb. When the acid settles and generosity builds with time in bottle this will be an absolute ripper. Wait 3-5 years.

Vintage 2021
$177
$170ea in any 3+
$163ea in any 6+
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Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur 'Clos Romans' 2018
Bone Dry!

Chenin Blanc from Saumur, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur ‘Clos Romans’ 2018

Chenin. Take the syrup from poached quince and mix it with Créme pâtissière. Entrancing. Lovely, feel like I’m cooking quince. Long fine, excellent acid, draws you in, alive with personality. Bone dry! Phenolics here are interesting, dusty rather than oily. They have a wonderful cleansing feel. Savory with a little oxidative character just enough to add intrigue. Fun. Very good.

Vintage 2018
$212
$205ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+
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The Red

Roches Neuves Samur-Champigny 2021

Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny, D'Anjou-Saumur

Roches Neuves Samur-Champigny 2021

Beautiful, plump yet linear fruit average 25 up to 70 years. Wild and tank only ferment. Bright lovely balance and flow. Great way to start the range. A little spice woody herb a little violets and blue fruits. A herbal note in a refreshing & very nice way. Moderate weight and length. Restrained crunchy and delicious. As per Gibb's note could easily be drunk with a couple of degrees knocked off it.“The 2021 Domaine des Roches Neuves is made in a light bodied, delicate and fragrant

Vintage 2021
$59
$56ea in any 3+
$53ea in any 6+
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Theirry Germain (Roches Neuves) Samur-Champigny 'Les Roches' 2019

Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny, D'Anjou-Saumur

Theirry Germain (Roches Neuves) Samur-Champigny ‘Les Roches’ 2019

Lovely plump juice that caresses the palate. Loads of energy here. Crunchy fruits perfumed with violets and baking spice. The texture here is exceptional incredibly fine tannins even tannins. Line and length of juicy acid. Loving the finesse here. Superb drinking. Sate the deepest of thirsts!

Vintage 2019
$61
$58ea in any 3+
$55ea in any 6+
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Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur-Champigny 'La Marginale' 2019

Cabernet Franc from Saumur, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur-Champigny ‘La Marginale’ 2019

Deceptive in it’s depth and length. There is a trick exceptional wines manage, they appear weightless yet have incredible depth and layer after layer of intrigue. This is such a wine. Funny, Thierry’s wines remind me in so many ways of Yarra Yering. When I made wine there we were focused on two things, texture and complexity, building in layer after layer of intrigue. As with Thierry’s fruit we had incredible acidity. We aimed to make wines that you’d drink half a bottle, think, shit tha

Vintage 2019
$128
$123ea in any 3+
$118ea in any 6+
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Terre de l'Elu

Terre de l'Elu Vin de France 'Bastingage' 2021

Chenin Blanc from Anjou, D'Anjou-Saumur

Terre de l’Elu Vin de France ‘Bastingage’ 2021

Flow and shape here is excellent. A blend of 4 terroirs. Vinified separately. Seamless, rich textural wine with an acid cut and a little bitterness keeping it fresh.Pear and fresh quince cooked to blush as on a cake. A lovely core of fruit. Delicacy playing with the richness.  A little white flower hint of that marzipan and gentle silvery sweep of bitterness.Fermented in 500L oak with a discrete positive influence from 10% new wood. Terre de l’Elu have been working carefully on the qu

Vintage 2020
$95
$91ea in any 3+
$87ea in any 6+
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Terre de l'Elu 'Magellan' Cabernet Franc 2020

Cabernet Franc from Anjou, D'Anjou-Saumur

Terre de l’Elu ‘Magellan’ Cabernet Franc 2020

This is excellent. Lovely perfume super fine linear long layered tannins. Layered complex flavours of bramble, mulberry, orange skins and florals. Complete harmonious, flowing. The tannins are very impressive so sophisticated superb. Already building a feel of secondary development. Moving into the next phase of development.Charlotte and Thomas’s approach to handling Cabernet Franc is impressive. Where many in the Loire are making green, hard, reduced and Bretty wines, they have succeede

Vintage 2020
$152
$147ea in any 3+
$142ea in any 6+
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Terre de l'Elu 'Parfum d'Eden' Chenin Blanc 2021

Chenin Blanc from Anjou, D'Anjou-Saumur

Terre de l’Elu ‘Parfum d’Eden’ Chenin Blanc 2021

New Cuvée from 2021 – A parcel in chaume worked separately. This terroir is often used for sweet wines. Makes a great dry according to Thomas (...and Me!) highlighting again the importance of the flavour and phenolics from the skins.Yields of just 15-20Hl/Ha from very old vines give us a wine that is a delight in the glass! Half to ⅓ of DRC's yields! Fermentation in new wood aged in the same wood for 1 year then 5 months in stainless. This is the same as for the Bastingage.F

Vintage 2021
$158
$153ea in any 3+
$148ea in any 6+
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Domaine du Closel

Domaine du Closel Savennières 'La Jalousie' Chenin Blanc 2020

Chenin Blanc from Savennières, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine du Closel Savennières ‘La Jalousie’ Chenin Blanc 2020

A delicious Jalouise. Quince and Fejoa with a little baking spice. Building in depth with decent length in the glass. Textural phenolics play nicely with chalky acid complexed by hazelnut and crème pat from lees. Vivacious and refreshing. It’ll be lovely to see this fill out with a little more bottle age. Lemon oil and zest at play. Let it warm a little. The perfect intro to the fresher styles of Savennières. It will offer load more with time in bottle!

Vintage 2020
$94
$90ea in any 3+
$86ea in any 6+
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Domaine du Closel Savennières 'Le Clos du Papillon' Chenin Blanc 2020

Chenin Blanc from Savennières, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine du Closel Savennières ‘Le Clos du Papillon’ Chenin Blanc 2020

A complex, textural and thrilling Chenin Blanc. Two parcels, one picked earlier and devoid of botrytis, one later with a little botrytis marry seamlessly presenting us with an entrancing creature. Dry Chenin of this standing is truly something special.There’s a certain composure and harmony here. A fine example, the textural elements show a leaning to less alcohol and higher perceived acidity than its sibling ‘La Caillardières’ adding a degree of restraint and sophistication to thi

Vintage 2020
$145
$140ea in any 3+
$135ea in any 6+
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Domaine Arnaud Lambert

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Samur Brézé 'Clos de Midi' 2023

Chenin Blanc from Brézé, Saumur

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Samur Brézé ‘Clos de Midi’ 2023

Looking good! Fresh, style with a nice phenolic grip and cleansing astringency with crunchy mineral acid. Spiced pear and quince with citrus rind and fresh marmalade are balanced by silvery almond lining. Building generosity in the glass.Give this a year in bottle to settle a little and drink over 5 years.

Vintage 2023
$72
$69ea in any 6+
$66ea in any 12+
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Domaine Arnaud Lambert Samur Brézé 'Clos David' 2021

Chenin Blanc from Brézé, Saumur

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Samur Brézé ‘Clos David’ 2021

Serious Chenin here. A big jump from the Midi. Lambert appears to be working with a little more phenolic extract adding a playful grip and cleansing astringency. Very complete and flowing. David’s extra time in old oak and a 2nd winter in tank give it harmony and refinement, flowing with a real step up in sophistication.Super zippy, mineral acid with the core of fruit to support it. Building generosity and freshness in the glass on a fine crisp acidity. Heading more strongly down the quinc

Vintage 2021
$111
$107ea in any 3+
$103ea in any 6+
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Showing of wines

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur 'Clos Romans' 2018
Bone Dry!

Chenin Blanc from Saumur, D'Anjou-Saumur

Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur ‘Clos Romans’ 2018

Chenin. Take the syrup from poached quince and mix it with Créme pâtissière. Entrancing. Lovely, feel like I’m cooking quince. Long fine, excellent acid, draws you in, alive with personality. Bone dry! Phenolics here are interesting, dusty rather than oily. They have a wonderful cleansing feel. Savory with a little oxidative character just enough to add intrigue. Fun. Very good.

Vintage 2018
$212
$205ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+
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Thibaud Boudignon Savennières 'Clos Frémine' 2023

Chenin Blanc from Savennières, D'Anjou-Saumur

Thibaud Boudignon Savennières ‘Clos Frémine’ 2023

The 2022 Savennières Clos de Fremine has purity and tranquility; it's a cloud of Chenin Blanc blossoming in the mouth. There were a lot of grapes that didn't make the grade in 2022 due to the hot, dry conditions of the season, but the strict sorting implemented by Boudignon and team appears to have done the trick. The wine is gently fresh, but a salty line provides persistence. An appetizing fragrance of chamomile, honey and nectarine lingers long in the mouth.Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous 94 Poi

Vintage 2023
$219
$209ea in any 3+
$199ea in any 6+
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Thibaud Boudignon Savennières 'Clos de La Hutte' 2021

Chenin Blanc from Savennières, D'Anjou-Saumur

Thibaud Boudignon Savennières ‘Clos de La Hutte’ 2021

Stunning wine. Epically good, long and fine. Harmony, seamless, delicacy with mid-palate presence and length. Nuanced, refined texture lined by superb phenolics. White flowers, super fresh white stone fruit, quince, hints of lemon oil & bees wax.  A little crème patissiere & baking spice. Intoxicating. Massive competitor with 1er Chassage, Puligny, Meursault. Incredible length. ‘Matured with 30% new oak, the 2021 Savennières Clos de la Hutte was made with grapes grown i

Vintage 2021
$283
$273ea in any 3+
$263ea in any 6+
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Thibaud Boudignon Savennières 'Clos de La Hutte' 2022

Chenin Blanc from Savennières, D'Anjou-Saumur

Thibaud Boudignon Savennières ‘Clos de La Hutte’ 2022

Clos de la Hutte is always a stunning wine. My note on the 2021 read: "Epically good, long and fine. Harmony, seamless, delicacy with mid-palate presence and length. Nuanced, refined texture lined by superb phenolics. White flowers, super fresh white stone fruit, quince, hints of lemon oil & bees wax.  A little crème patissiere & baking spice. Intoxicating. Massive competitor with 1er Chassage, Puligny, Meursault. Incredible length."Although it's ungenerous on the nose,

Vintage 2022
$283
$273ea in any 3+
$263ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Vin de France Blanc Etc 2023

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Vin de France Blanc Etc 2023

These sites produce the most direct, accessible expression of Pouilly-Fumé. Under Louis-Benjamin's guidance, its quality has improved dramatically, now rivalling his other wines. Layered and already open, the 2023 offers enormous complexity and pleasure for a young Dagueneau. Of course, it will only get better after 3 to 10 years in bottle.The first bottle of Didier's wines I devoured was a bottle of Silex in 2001 with Doc when I was working with him at Yarra Yering. We were looking to

Vintage 2023
$312
$302ea in any 3+
$292ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang VDF 2022

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang VDF 2022

“The 2022 Pur Sang is done in a really sophisticated style. Despite its long élevage, it needs a little more time for its oak (demi-muids and cigar-shaped barrels) to integrate fully and for its sense of strictness to mellow. But this isn't a wine you'd crack open on release anyway. It is pure and clear, with fine texture and a tenderness to its core. The 2022 shows fine lines and length, with tangy green flavors like cornichons and dill meeting green orange on the finish.”Rebecca Gibb

Vintage 2022
$381
$366ea in any 3+
$351ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang VDF 2023

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pur Sang VDF 2023

Pur Sang, meaning ‘thoroughbred’ in French, originated from Didier Dagueneau’s frustration at wine writers constantly referencing that he ploughed this site by horse. The first label featured a horsehide rug image, if you get the joke. One of Dagueneau’s historic superstars, it comes from a 30-year-old, densely planted vineyard called La Folie (madness) in Saint-Laurent-l’Abbaye. Farmers wondered at Dagueneau buying the land, which was not a vineyard at the time (it had been long ago

Vintage 2023
$381
$366ea in any 3+
$351ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Blanc VDF 2022

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Blanc VDF 2022

“I’m a bit of a fan of the Buisson Renard. At the bottom of the hill below the winery in the village of Saint-Andelain, there's a greater proportion of clay to flint, giving a broadness to the wine's shape that envelops the whole mouth. In 2022, you can smell the warmth of the vintage and experience its richness and yet its sense of lightness. There's an appealing chew to the wine, and on the finish, a salty residue that makes you want to continue drinking. It retains acidity, line and lengt

Vintage 2022
$420
$400ea in any 3+
$380ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Blanc VDF 2023

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Buisson Renard Blanc VDF 2023

This wine is priced above Pur Sang these days, indicating how highly the Domaine rates the vineyard and the wine. Buisson Renard is a cool mid-slope terroir on the southwest side of the Saint-Andelain hill and the soils are a mixture of clay and flint (or silex). The site was historically named Buisson Menard, as was the wine initially, but a wine writer mistakenly reviewed the wine as Buisson Renard. Renard means fox in French, and Buisson means bush, so the error gave the wine a name

Vintage 2023
$420
$400ea in any 3+
$380ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 2016

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 2016

The first bottle of Didier's wines I devoured was a bottle of Silex in 2001 with Doc when I was working with him at Yarra Yering. We were looking to benchmark for the Dry White No.1, a Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc blend. It was included in a bracket with some exceptional white Bordeaux. Prior Didier's wine I had not been impressed by the Pouilly-Fumé I had tasted, most of it green, weedy, cats piss. Silex was a breath of fresh air.Jefford's commentary sums it up beautifully. “His wines smel

Vintage 2016
$423
$408ea in any 3+
$393ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Sancerre 'Le Mont Damné' 2023

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Sancerre ‘Le Mont Damné’ 2023

Rarely exported as there is so little made, we only get a few bottles even at the best of times. Didier Dagueneau always dreamed of making a great Sancerre from the chalky slopes of Chavignol. It was only in the late ‘90s that he was able to acquire half a hectare of Les Monts Damnés, near Gérard Boulay’s Comtesse parcel, and soon planted it to his own exacting standards. The south-facing, steep site has white soil packed with chalk. The historic name of the parcel or climat (within Le

Vintage 2023
$511
$491ea in any 3+
$471ea in any 6+
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Domaine Didier Dagueneau Silex VDF 2022

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Silex VDF 2022

“The 2022 Silex is not a lot of fun upon release; dry and tense, it really needs time to mellow. There's flesh from the clay element of its clay-flint soils, which is felt on entry but tightens up as it moves through the mouth. This remains a wine of drive, firmness and upright structure; it speaks of the place it comes from rather than its variety. Aromatics are almost a forgotten element; this is a wine about structure and texture. There is a lemony, wild goat cheese-like note and a distinct

Vintage 2022
$513
$493ea in any 3+
$473ea in any 6+
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