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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
As tight as ... usual. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. Fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. Crystal clear. Darker more broody than the 2015 which had a few more months off the boat when I first saw it. Fresh and vibrant / energetic. Bold, yet very good long, layered slatey tannins compared with the 2015. Wonderful texture h
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
The E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2020 Barolo Mosconi has some of the extra ripeness of the vintage with cherry cream syrup, grenadine, watermelon candy and a drop of Pastis. The wine ends on a powerful note with a balanced combination of fruit and fine oak tannins. The palate is very alive, and the fruit feels very vibrant at this young stage.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 96 Points AG 95 JD 98
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
In recent times, Vigna Rionda gets spoken about as the grand cru of the Langhe – altitude, exposure and soil profile play an integral part. As expected, this is Giampaolo’s flagship wine. The oak regime is similar to the ‘Marenca’ but with a larger portion of newer oak – around 30%. Ultra-powerful and layered in fragrances, flavours and textures. Smoke, graphite, incense, stock/porcini, sweet tobacco, violets. All this character is underpinned by a fierce, tingling acid line and a comp
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
The 2021 Rosso di Montalcino is dark and intense, smoldering up with masses of smoky black cherries, sage and incense. This possesses a core of ripe wild berry fruit underscored by saline minerals and savory spice, all guided by zesty acidity. The 2021 finishes structured and long, with a concentration that reminds me more of Brunello than Rosso, leaving grippy tannins and hints of sour citrus that keep me looking back to the glass for more. There will be a 10% reduction in quantity for 2021 due
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
Gorelli's 2018 put them on them firmly on our radar! If that's what they can do in 2018 imagine how the 2019 will drink! Brunello di Montalcino comes in a vast array of guises from the super bold structured ones with oak (not my cuppa), the dark rich yet mid-weight with a line of substantial yet refined tannins, & the perfumed, poised, delicate Brunellos with plush fine tannins. At this, Burgundian end, we see Poggio di Sotto and Soldera. Today we add one more to that list Gorelli. It's not
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
In recent times, Vigna Rionda gets spoken about as the grand cru of the Langhe – altitude, exposure and soil profile play an integral part.As expected, this is Giampaolo’s flagship wine. The oak regime is similar to the ‘Marenca’ but with a larger portion of newer oak – around 30%.Ultra-powerful and layered in fragrances, flavours and textures. Smoke, graphite, incense, stock/porcini, sweet tobacco, violets. All this character is underpinned by a fierce, tingling acid line and
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
In 2013 Roagna began a collaboration with the owner of the historic vineyard Faset in Barbaresco. 2013 was our first year of production. Faset is a historic cru, close to Asili and the Rocche di Barbaresco which produces incredibly elegant wines. This little parcel is South West exposed. Receives the same vineyard work, 60 days […]
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
About Roagna Reading Roagna’s manifesto with my Vigneron’s cap on, it’s clear that they are driven to achieve excellence. In many ways, their approach reminds me of Yarra Yering. Pushing the boundaries with so many aspects of viticulture and winemaking, taking calculated risks, that, when successful, result in what are undoubtedly some of the best […]
The 2017 Barolo Monvigliero marries the raciness of the year with the floral lift and elegance of this great Verduno site. More than anything, the 2017 is a Barolo of pure and total sensuality. Even so, there is more than enough tannin to allow the 2017 to drink well for many years to come. It is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage. The rich, substantial finish is a thing of real beauty.Antonio Galloni, Vinous
'The 2018 Barolo Monvigliero is broad, ample and so expressive, all while showing the finesse and classicism that are such a signature of this wine. All elements are so well balanced in a Barolo that speaks to harmony above all else. Sweet red cherry, cedar, orange peel, tobacco and cinnamon give the 2018 tons of aromatic presence. Best of all, the 2018 will drink well with minimal cellaring. It's a gorgeous wine in every way.'Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
The 2019 Barolo Mosconi is the most potent of the three Barolos in the range. It exudes Monforte darkness and virile intensity from the very first taste. Black cherry, plum, mocha, sage, tar, lavender and spice infuse the 2019 with tons of character. This is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted from Mosconi, a site that does not naturally lend itself to finesse.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 98 Points
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