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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello! I've now had a chance to taste through a good wedge of 2020 Barolos. It reads as an interesting vintage. There are many tightly coiled wines at this point that will need time to build generosity. Manley's M8 is one of the highlights of my tasting thus far. It's a complete wine with a caressing shape and flow of fruit underpinned by long, even, layered, serious tannins. Complex with immediate generosity,
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2008 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2015. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange and spices. T
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Sordo's Parussi always sits on the bolder side for the Cru, which it turns out has split soil types. Theirs being on soils more similar to those of Serralunga. The resulting structure shows in the wine. The 2008 is drinking beautifully, showing darker fruits and like the other 2008 Sordos seamless, with exceptional harmony and balance.This is such a great opportunity to look at different Crus in a horizontal from one producer!Matured Barolo straight from the cellars of Sordo ... Bring It
It's fascinating the from one of Barolos Northern most Crus in Monvigliero, moving to one of the Southern most in Ravera from Novello we see two Crus that are more playful and expressive in their youth. Here we typically see supple tannins, oppulent red fruits with front to mid-palate attack. Again the metamorphosis only time can offer us really is something special.Here's a chance to see a Ravera with a decade+ of bottle age on it and find out just how it transforms!This is such a great
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Perno, always the darkest and most structured on release, is perhaps the wine in the Sordo Cru lineup that goes through the most dramatic metamorphosis with time. Monforte is the least defined of the Barolo Communes, the end result is a diversity of styles. Barolo from Monforte can have incredible power, darknesss and earthiness, less reliant on fruit than other communes, in recent times we have soon producers making finer, elegant, perfumed iterations. Sordo's Perno sits in the middle, perhaps
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
Like the ‘Ignaccio’ Rosso di Montalcino ‘Iacopo’ Il Marroneto is a baby Brunello in that was grown with the intention of becoming so. A pure Sangiovese that was aged for a few months in large oak barrels this wine is an exciting new project that cements and displays Iacopo’s understanding of the vineyards and is exciting now and for years to come. Declassified fruit parcels from the Madonna delle Grazie vineyard.Deeply complex, the 2022 Rosso di Montalcino Iacopo wafts up wi
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
In my view the Barbaresco Masseria is the most under-the-radar wine at Vietti....The 2018 marks an important transition for the Masseria which is a trademarked brand, not a vineyard, named for one of the hamlets within the Cottá sub-zone where Alfredo Currado first sourced fruit for this wine in the 1960s. Over the years vineyard sources for the Barbaresco have varied.... Beginning in 2018, the Masseria is made exclusively from a sizeable parcel in Roncaglie Vietti acquired from Socré. Vinous
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
The Fuligni 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine, and it shines a much-deserved spotlight on one of the most consistent estates in Montalcino. It is bright and luminous with a dark ruby shine. The bouquet reveals deeply layered tones of red cherry, wild berry, rose, earth and candied violets. Give the wine an extra twirl or two, and you get some rosemary and lavender. Soft dusty mineral and limestone also appear. I'd definitely put this bottle on a short list of the most recommended b
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
It just invites you in! This is what wine is about! There’s a sensuality to Costanti's 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. It’s something about the way it draws you in and warms the soul. Its bouquet straddles both the light and dark sides of Sangiovese, rising up with alluring flowery perfumes, cedar dust and crushed cherry, yet then swaying toward rich brown spices and clove. The textures are velvety-smooth and elegant, ushering in a dense core of fleshy red berry fruits, which leave a coating of
Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte
Historically these wines have had Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. Alto Piemonte saw another productive vintage in 2020 with no significant hail or frost events. It was a warm year with well-timed rains and a harvest that started early, but not excessively so. Early indications are of a strong set of wines.Looking forward to trying this when it hits the warehouse. Grab a set Conterno's Sensory Glasses to swirl it around in too!The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lif
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Grace under pressure! Castiglione Falletto shining through with those faded flower. Excellent long tannins of substance and sophistication. A beguiling core of fruit, brooding, yet, you can see what is to come. Flow and shape. It feels very complete. Fine and long. It has that intrigue that steps it up another notch. Very good. Earthy and truffled, serious stuff. Persistence has you taking note as it dances along.Rocche di Castiglione and Villero in Castiglione Falletto consistently sit amon
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