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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
The Fuligni 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine, and it shines a much-deserved spotlight on one of the most consistent estates in Montalcino. It is bright and luminous with a dark ruby shine. The bouquet reveals deeply layered tones of red cherry, wild berry, rose, earth and candied violets. Give the wine an extra twirl or two, and you get some rosemary and lavender. Soft dusty mineral and limestone also appear. I'd definitely put this bottle on a short list of the most recommended b
Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany
It just invites you in! This is what wine is about! There’s a sensuality to Costanti's 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. It’s something about the way it draws you in and warms the soul. Its bouquet straddles both the light and dark sides of Sangiovese, rising up with alluring flowery perfumes, cedar dust and crushed cherry, yet then swaying toward rich brown spices and clove. The textures are velvety-smooth and elegant, ushering in a dense core of fleshy red berry fruits, which leave a coating of
Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte
Historically these wines have had Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. Alto Piemonte saw another productive vintage in 2020 with no significant hail or frost events. It was a warm year with well-timed rains and a harvest that started early, but not excessively so. Early indications are of a strong set of wines.Looking forward to trying this when it hits the warehouse. Grab a set Conterno's Sensory Glasses to swirl it around in too!The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lif
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Grace under pressure! Castiglione Falletto shining through with those faded flower. Excellent long tannins of substance and sophistication. A beguiling core of fruit, brooding, yet, you can see what is to come. Flow and shape. It feels very complete. Fine and long. It has that intrigue that steps it up another notch. Very good. Earthy and truffled, serious stuff. Persistence has you taking note as it dances along.Rocche di Castiglione and Villero in Castiglione Falletto consistently sit amon
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana, 2013 = Enough Said! The 2016 Barolo Baudana is laced with sweet red cherry, floral overtones and silky tannins, all of which make it one of the more refined, sensual Serralunga Barolos readers will come across. In this tasting, the Baudana impresses with its haunting aromatics and transparent expression of Nebbiolo. Like all of these wines, it needs time in bottle but it is super impressive, even in the early going.Galloni
Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ!As you step through the range each wine raises the bar. The first two Riservas already shows great harmony.The Osso San Grato steps it up again. As with the 2016 the acid-tannin complex is superb, even long with an extra layer over the San Francesco.As it opens in the glass it reveals a staggering array of perfumes and flavours. Each sniff and taste reveals another.Hard not to devour now, Ridgey assures me these wi
Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte
Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ!As you step through the range each wine raises the bar. Hard not to devour now, Ridgey assures me these will last for decades. It’s times like this I wish it was easier to source an aged bottle or two!The 2018 Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato is one of the great wines of the vintage. It offers notable depth married with a feeling of classicism that is palpable. Dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol, licorice, lavender
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark bluebe
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
Fenochhio's plot of Cannubi was purchased in 1973 and replanted in 1974. Here the soils are sandier soil than his Bussia in Monforte. The vineyard in the Cannubi Boschis sub-section from the lowest part of Cannubi. A very elegant, sophisticated Cannubi, with a wonderful core of vibrant red fruit, laced with a dried bouquet of flowers. A fine line of acid keeping the wine super fresh. A classic vintage. Delicate with fine dusty tannins, an incredible perfume lifting from the glass. Evolution in t
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! Winery Direct from an exceptional Barolo Year! Update Dec 2023 Devoured at a Christmas function, the 2004 Perno is right in the zone. Sitting in that perfectly mature spot. Earthy and truffled, seamless and harmonious, poised, balanced, flowing and delicious. This aged Barolo is in its prime drinking beautifully.A perfect match to dry-aged duck breast with a white truffle and cured cherry sauce at Al Dente.From my experience o
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2004 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2016, 2015 & 2008. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange
Montepuliciano from Abruzzo, Italy
The 2019 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Archivio opens slowly in the glass, darkly intense and youthfully coiled. Swirling brings an aromatic blend of foreign spice, balsam herbs, dried black cherries and lifting shaved pine notes. With its silky textures, this seduces, more lifted and poised than I'd imagined. A core of tart raspberry fruit stains the palate as a web of fine-grained tannins forms toward the close. While structured and dramatically long, the Archivio maintains a lovely harmony, as a bi
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