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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Picolo Derthona' 2024
Refreshing!

Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Picolo Derthona’ 2024

A ripping Picolo, semi-dried apricot, apricot kernel, baking spice with exceptional presence for a wine at this price point. Flowing and luscious with a sherberty refreshing acid, making for a thirst-quenching drink. A little creamy play adds richness and complexity. Textural with a faint silvery line of bitterness cleansing the finish.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED

Vintage 2024
$57
$54ea in any 3+
$51ea in any 6+

Timorasso

La Colombera Derthona Timorasso 2024

This is more like it! A big step up from the 2023. Fine salty acid. A little savoury. Spice, and a lick of Crème Pat. Beautifully weighted and flowing. A generosity counterpointed by a zippy, fine line of energising acid interplaying with the subtle textural phenolics. A little mandarin and cumquat playing around the edge. Delicious drinking!Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Feb 2026

Vintage 2024
$59
$56ea in any 3+
$53ea in any 6+
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Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Claudio Mariotto ‘Bricco San Michele’ Derthona Timorasso 2023

NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio

Vintage 2023
$60
$57ea in any 3+
$54ea in any 6+
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Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Claudio Mariotto ‘Bricco San Michele’ Derthona Timorasso 2024

The 2024 sees a fuller, more textural wine than the 2023. The more golden colour the first indication. Textural, every so slightly oily phenolics and a gentle oxidative hand yield a complex, intriguing wine. Jasmine and white flowers lift from the glass over spices, white stone fruit and a little something exotic. Viognier and Chenin feels are playing around the edges. Elegant honey mixes with pops of cumquat and citrus zest. Mouthcoating with a transparency and a little pith at play. A demonstr

Vintage 2024
$60
$57ea in any 3+
$54ea in any 6+
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!


Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Erbaluce from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t

Vintage 2022
$58
$55ea in any 3+
$52ea in any 6+

Showing of wines

Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2017

The Fuligni 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a beautiful wine, and it shines a much-deserved spotlight on one of the most consistent estates in Montalcino. It is bright and luminous with a dark ruby shine. The bouquet reveals deeply layered tones of red cherry, wild berry, rose, earth and candied violets. Give the wine an extra twirl or two, and you get some rosemary and lavender. Soft dusty mineral and limestone also appear. I'd definitely put this bottle on a short list of the most recommended b

Vintage 2017
$260
$250ea in any 3+
$240ea in any 6+
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Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2017
Intoxicating! 🌹

Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany

Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino 2017

It just invites you in! This is what wine is about! There’s a sensuality to Costanti's 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. It’s something about the way it draws you in and warms the soul. Its bouquet straddles both the light and dark sides of Sangiovese, rising up with alluring flowery perfumes, cedar dust and crushed cherry, yet then swaying toward rich brown spices and clove. The textures are velvety-smooth and elegant, ushering in a dense core of fleshy red berry fruits, which leave a coating of

Vintage 2017
$260
$250ea in any 3+
$240ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Nervi-Conterno Gattinara 2020

Historically these wines have had Amazing transparency, sophistication shining though. Alto Piemonte saw another productive vintage in 2020 with no significant hail or frost events. It was a warm year with well-timed rains and a harvest that started early, but not excessively so. Early indications are of a strong set of wines.Looking forward to trying this when it hits the warehouse. Grab a set Conterno's Sensory Glasses to swirl it around in too!The 2020 Gattinara is elegant and lif

Vintage 2020
$260
$250ea in any 3+
$240ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo ‘Villero’ 2021

Grace under pressure! Castiglione Falletto shining through with those faded flower. Excellent long tannins of substance and sophistication. A beguiling core of fruit, brooding, yet, you can see what is to come. Flow and shape. It feels very complete. Fine and long. It has that intrigue that steps it up another notch. Very good. Earthy and truffled, serious stuff. Persistence has you taking note as it dances along.Rocche di Castiglione and Villero in Castiglione Falletto consistently sit amon

Vintage 2021
$260
$250ea in any 3+
$240ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2016

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana, 2013 = Enough Said! The 2016 Barolo Baudana is laced with sweet red cherry, floral overtones and silky tannins, all of which make it one of the more refined, sensual Serralunga Barolos readers will come across. In this tasting, the Baudana impresses with its haunting aromatics and transparent expression of Nebbiolo. Like all of these wines, it needs time in bottle but it is super impressive, even in the early going.Galloni

Vintage 2016
$265
$255ea in any 3+
$245ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Antoniolo ‘Osso San Grato’ Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2017

Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ!As you step through the range each wine raises the bar. The first two Riservas already shows great harmony.The Osso San Grato steps it up again. As with the 2016 the acid-tannin complex is superb, even long with an extra layer over the San Francesco.As it opens in the glass it reveals a staggering array of perfumes and flavours. Each sniff and taste reveals another.Hard not to devour now, Ridgey assures me these wi

Vintage 2017
$265
$255ea in any 3+
$245ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Antoniolo ‘Osso San Grato’ Gattinara Riserva DOCG 2018

Jesus wept on the Bones of Saint Gratto! The very blood of Christ!As you step through the range each wine raises the bar. Hard not to devour now, Ridgey assures me these will last for decades. It’s times like this I wish it was easier to source an aged bottle or two!The 2018 Gattinara Riserva Osso San Grato is one of the great wines of the vintage. It offers notable depth married with a feeling of classicism that is palpable. Dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol, licorice, lavender

Vintage 2018
$265
$255ea in any 3+
$245ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2021

This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark bluebe

Vintage 2021
$265
$255ea in any 3+
$245ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo ‘Cannubi’ 2021

Fenochhio's plot of Cannubi was purchased in 1973 and replanted in 1974. Here the soils are sandier soil than his Bussia in Monforte. The vineyard in the Cannubi Boschis sub-section from the lowest part of Cannubi. A very elegant, sophisticated Cannubi, with a wonderful core of vibrant red fruit, laced with a dried bouquet of flowers. A fine line of acid keeping the wine super fresh. A classic vintage. Delicate with fine dusty tannins, an incredible perfume lifting from the glass. Evolution in t

Vintage 2021
$267
$257ea in any 3+
$247ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo

Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva ‘Perno’ 2004

Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! Winery Direct from an exceptional Barolo Year! Update Dec 2023 Devoured at a Christmas function, the 2004 Perno is right in the zone. Sitting in that perfectly mature spot. Earthy and truffled, seamless and harmonious, poised, balanced, flowing and delicious. This aged Barolo is in its prime drinking beautifully.A perfect match to dry-aged duck breast with a white truffle and cured cherry sauce at Al Dente.From my experience o

Vintage 2004
$268
$258ea in any 3+
$248ea in any 6+
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva 'Gabutti' 2004
The Bold!

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva ‘Gabutti’ 2004

The 2004 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2016, 2015 & 2008. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange

Vintage 2004
$268
$258ea in any 3+
$248ea in any 6+

Montepuliciano from Abruzzo, Italy

Tiberio Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo ‘Archivio’ 2019

The 2019 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Archivio opens slowly in the glass, darkly intense and youthfully coiled. Swirling brings an aromatic blend of foreign spice, balsam herbs, dried black cherries and lifting shaved pine notes. With its silky textures, this seduces, more lifted and poised than I'd imagined. A core of tart raspberry fruit stains the palate as a web of fine-grained tannins forms toward the close. While structured and dramatically long, the Archivio maintains a lovely harmony, as a bi

Vintage 2019
$270
$260ea in any 3+
$250ea in any 6+

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