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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasure to be had. Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. As David puts it, it’s chubby. Immediate generosity on the nose. So much aroma and flavour. Mid-palate fruit weight here is insane. Rich and chocolatey with savoury dark fruit, hints of that faded flowers and tobacco. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasu
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Again a controlled, blockbuster, with layers of dried and fading flowers, tobacco, cranberry and cherry liqueur. Huge, almost sweet palate. Long, but tight and relatively unevolved still, of course. Will be superb again. Such a complete wine yet tightly coiled and the moment, everything in it’s place and place for everything. Incredible tannin profile this year. Such lovely ripe nutty tannins of serious depth. The core of fruit is exceptional and long. Mouth filling, I so want to see a bottle
Very recognisable again; the graphite and generous almost smoky black cherry/prune announces a Monvigliero. This is both expressive now, yet clearly very classy. Superb, the flint, the slate, the dark sour cherries, such length. Incredible wine. A hint of macerative, grape marc character, again energy, vibrancy. Nice florals. Tannins that almost remind me of a little whole bunch will resolve. Should be a fun evolution for this one. This has a wonderful personality.Very recognisable again; th
A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. The sophistication of the front mid-palate tannin is there. The refreshing balanced acidity. Playful yet leveling up to serious. A lythe yet present flavour profile.Aha - this red cherry and brick-dust opening is be
Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo
'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
The 2017 Barolo Mosconi is a powerful, brooding wine. Black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, scorched earth, spice and leather add to an impression of gravitas. This is an especially somber, potent Barolo that needs time to soften. Even so, it will always be a brute. The substantial finish is a thing of beauty. The Barolo Mosconi emerges from the estates oldest vines, which are 70-80 years old, and is aged in barrique.Galloni
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is another stellar wine in this range. Dark and explosive, the 2021 possesses notable richness to match its dark, brooding personality. Black cherry, plum, leather, cloves, menthol, licorice and gravel explode onto the palate. The 2020 will require a measure of patience, but it has a ton of potential.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 97 PointsIn this vintage, the Rabajà was served last in a series of nine Riservas; that's because it shows the most structure
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
A complex, beautifully layered wine, the 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico expresses so many of the attributes that make the wines from this vintage and site so intriguing. The bouquet alone is wonderfully complex. Dried herbs, mint, pine, tobacco and cedar open first, leading to a core of chiseled dark-toned fruit. A vertical, structured Barbaresco, the Montefico is superb.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 PointsTwo standouts from the 2020 vintage are Montefico and Asili. The Produttori de
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the most elegant, polished wines in this range. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mint and cedar are beautifully lifted. The tannins are remarkably polished for a young, recently bottled Riserva. I admire its poise and elegance. This is an especially refined edition of the Montestefano. In 2020, the mix of vineyards is a bit younger than in the past, as one of the blocks of older vineyards was replanted and not used. If I could have o
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is pretty closed today, which is probably a very good sign for its aging prospects, as this site tends to produce wines that are more open than this. Dark cherry, plum, leather, incense and tobacco offer a decidedly somber expression of Rio Sordo. The 2020 clearly needs time.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 PointsThe Produttori del Barbaresco 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo comes from an area that is further removed from the Tanaro River and has sout
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is aromatic, effusive and quite charming. Crushed flowers, spice, leather, tobacco and cedar lend notable inner sweetness. Medium in body and gracious, the Pora is pretty approachable today, although it will be better with a few years in bottle. This is a very beautiful, vivid Pora and a fine introduction to the Riservas.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points This is the first wine served in a flight of nine that increase in intensity and power moving for
Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont
The 2020 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is a classic wine from this site. Deeply spiced and balsamic notes meld into a core of dark, sepia-toned Nebbiolo fruit. A Barbaresco of real presence and substance, the Pajè makes itself felt. It's one of my early dark horse favorites in this range from Produttori del Barbaresco.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 PointsThe Pajè vineyard faces the Tanaro River and is tucked at back of a narrow theater of vines. The site is often characterized by a floral n
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