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Italy

Ahhh … Italy! Home of renaissance literature, philosophy, science and some of the most heart warming food in the world. From North to South it would be a fair guess to say the only thing outnumbering churches and Vespa’s are the vast areas of vineyards.

One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!

Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!

Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!

Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.

Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!

In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!

Most Common VarietiesIn his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont. 

Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.

White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).

Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).

Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!


A Treasure Hunt for the Lost Whites of Italy!


Timorasso ~ Nascetta ~ Erbaluce

3 Italian Whites Saved from Extinction!

Of the thousands of grape varieties that exist, and even more clones of each variety, few make it into our glass.

Many have been lost. Economic reality making them not viable.

Advances in viticulture, changes in climate and the passion of a few individuals have saved a few!

For that we are thankful!


Timorasso


The Saviours

Walter & Claudio along with their shared cellarmaster ‘Pigi’ are both the saviours & masters of Timorasso! The hold some of the oldest plantings making wine of great complexity, texture. Composed & full of personality.

Walter describes his Derthona as a “Modern Antique”.

Vigneti Massa Timorasso 'Picolo Derthona' 2024
Refreshing!

Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Vigneti Massa Timorasso ‘Picolo Derthona’ 2024

A ripping Picolo, semi-dried apricot, apricot kernel, baking spice with exceptional presence for a wine at this price point. Flowing and luscious with a sherberty refreshing acid, making for a thirst-quenching drink. A little creamy play adds richness and complexity. Textural with a faint silvery line of bitterness cleansing the finish.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED

Vintage 2024
$57
$54ea in any 3+
$51ea in any 6+

Timorasso

La Colombera Derthona Timorasso 2024

This is more like it! A big step up from the 2023. Fine salty acid. A little savoury. Spice, and a lick of Crème Pat. Beautifully weighted and flowing. A generosity counterpointed by a zippy, fine line of energising acid interplaying with the subtle textural phenolics. A little mandarin and cumquat playing around the edge. Delicious drinking!Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded Feb 2026

Vintage 2024
$59
$56ea in any 3+
$53ea in any 6+
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Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Claudio Mariotto ‘Bricco San Michele’ Derthona Timorasso 2023

NOTE on the 2022: An excellent follow up to the 2021. A slightly more generous iteration. All of the elements once again at play. Texture, clever use of oxidative handling to build intrigue whilst maintaining a core of vibrant fruit and mineral acidity. Citrus zest and oils with pears and a little candied ginger. White flowers dance over the top with a little savoury hit. Flowing and luscious, chalky, savoury, spiced, sapidity in a cleansing way. Plenty of intrigue and interest here. An exceptio

Vintage 2023
$60
$57ea in any 3+
$54ea in any 6+
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Timorasso from Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont

Claudio Mariotto ‘Bricco San Michele’ Derthona Timorasso 2024

The 2024 sees a fuller, more textural wine than the 2023. The more golden colour the first indication. Textural, every so slightly oily phenolics and a gentle oxidative hand yield a complex, intriguing wine. Jasmine and white flowers lift from the glass over spices, white stone fruit and a little something exotic. Viognier and Chenin feels are playing around the edges. Elegant honey mixes with pops of cumquat and citrus zest. Mouthcoating with a transparency and a little pith at play. A demonstr

Vintage 2024
$60
$57ea in any 3+
$54ea in any 6+
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Explore all of our Timorasso!


Nascetta


The Saviour

Elvio Cogno with his plantings in Novello, Barolo is turning out intoxicating wines from Nascetta. As he says they need a year or 2 in bottle to reveal their full potential. Grab a 2019 to drink now and 2020 next summer!


Erbaluce


The Champion

Erbaluce can make many styles of from sparkling, late harvest & passito wines.

Antoniolo’s is a wonderfully fresh and crunchy dry white style. The 2020 has settled, resolving beautifully over the last 6 months and is in a wonderful place.

Perfect summer drinking.

Erbaluce from Gattinara, Alto Piemonte

Antoniolo Erbaluce d’Caluso DOC 2022

If you've never tried Erbaluce before this is a bloody good place to start!Like Timorasso & Nascetta this is a varietal to watch!Tasting the 2020 it was clear that like Cogno's Nascetta, Antoniolo's Erbaluce benefits from a hear in bottle to settle.Notes on the 20202nd Taste Oct 2022 - Very Good, super racy zippy acid coming together nicely resolved filled out. Looks good fun crisp. Perfect summer drinking. Elevage is there. Spice, the overt traminer, savvy b herbaceous t

Vintage 2022
$58
$55ea in any 3+
$52ea in any 6+

Showing of wines

Nebbiolo from Barolo, Piedmont

Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2018

A Divine Expression! This builds nicely in the glass, as a young wine, and has a presence and length about it. A full mid-palate carries through with excellent persistence. The energy of 2018 is present with fine acid and a complex set of intriguing flavours, a background resinous note over savoury, truffled fruit that has been beautifully developed draws you in. There’s some clever thinking in the making here. 

Vintage 2018
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Barolo, Piedmont

Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2019

An excellent stepwise jump in quality commensurate with the price. Building in depth and length with a matched build in seriously good grape tannins. Again the flow and shape. Long, even, divine. Such a beautiful wine. Incredible complexity and harmony make for a seamless wine that you can’t separate the individual aromas and flavours.Wonderful fruit, savoury notes, baking spice, woody herbs tea. Every sniff reveals another perfume. This is very very good enveloping you in pleasure even at

Vintage 2019
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Bussia, Monforte d'Alba

Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2019

Moving to Monforte at the top of Bussia we see the hallmarks of the top Bussia. The acid tannin complex is true to the form for the commune showing a playful grip. Bright red fruit with a certain delicacy combine with energetic acid.Again a beautiful perfume with a dark mineral slatey edge. Blood orange and a little phenol. Another great example of grape first Barolo showing its part of the commune of Monforte. Like the Monrobiolo a few more years in bottle will see this resolve, build and

Vintage 2019
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, Piedmont

Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Roncagliette’ 2020

From the same vineyard that offers us Gaja's Sori Tildin, we have Olek's Roncagliette! Tasting the 2020 (Oct 2023) 6 months after it's Oz release again demonstrated Olek's incredible touch. The man understands textures and tannins, creates wines with insane perfumes and layer after layer of divine flavours.On release it was quite bold. Now, everything is dialing into the right levels. The fruit has pulled back a little and the perfume is building. The shape and flow I've come to expect from

Vintage 2020
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo

Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021

A very strong La Serra from Marcarini. Oppulent, generous, shows off the Commune of La Morra in full flight! Savoury, with a drip of salty blood over red fruit and blood orange. Flowing, plush, round & fine. Delicious. The best La Serra in years. Beautiful development. Ripe, fine tannins. A long, long finish. Incredibly moreish even at this youthful point in its life! Will make for a lovely comparison with Sordo’s 2021 La Serra.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barolo

Vintage 2021
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2017
A Masterpiece!

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2017

A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% Serralunga’s Baudana & Broglio. Aged in new 75-85HL Gamba botti for 26 months. "Rose, ripe berry, menthol and sunbaked earth aromas come to the forefront. On the full-bodied palate, enveloping, seasoned tannins accompany dried black cherry, star anise and tobacco. Drink 2024–2029."Kerin O'Keefe

Vintage 2017
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+
Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2019
A Masterpiece!

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2019

A blend of fruit from 30% the plush La Morra Rive, 30% the flowing tannins of Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% structural acid-driven Serralunga vineayrds of Baudana & Broglio. Wonderfully fine tannins and core of fruit. A beautiful core of fruit, long fine excellent transparency. Delicate and beautiful. Earthy, truffled, an underlayer of perfume. Tasting the 2020 Langhes, 2019 Barbaresco Rombone, 2019 Barolo and the singular 2019 Rocche Rivera there is a thread of sophistica

Vintage 2019
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+
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Nerello Mascalese from Etna, Sicily

Passopisciaro Contrada ‘C’ Chiappemacine Nerello Mascelese 2021

A delicacy and perfume on the nose. Oyster shell and seaweed hint in the wine. The lowest of Passopisciaro’s contrada. Chiappemacine is typically fuller and richer by comparison The 2021 is a demonstration of Passopisciaro’s desire to tame the beast, pulling it back and achieving restraint.The core of fruit on the palate is one of the richer profiles for the 2021 Contrade. Red fruit, strawberry, a savoury layer and an earthiness. Still quite tight with slate and excellent tannins of gri

Vintage 2021
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+

Nerello Mascalese from Etna, Sicily

Passopisciaro Contrada ‘P’ Porcaria Nerello Mascelese 2021

Lower elevation builds more generosity into Porcaria. Such wonderful texture! More immediate generosity from Porcaria, a sub-contrada of Feudo di Mezzo. A little savoury, with a full round aroma profile. Rich and round on the palate with excellent acid, zippy and on the borderline of sour, countered by ripe, spiced fruit. Time will undoubtedly see the acid resolve. Excellent red and darker fruit with baking spice and slatey grip of tannin. Herbal and fine. Very good. NOTE: I tasted these 12

Vintage 2021
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+

Nerello Mascalese from Etna, Sicily

Passopisciaro Contrada ‘R’ Rampante Nerello Mascelese 2021

The Highest Elevation Contrada owned by Passopisciaro making delicious Ethereal wines! The hardest of the Contrade wines to read straight away. Oyster shell and seaweed aromas remind me of the Passorosso 2021 when just off the boat. Elegant, fine and delicate. Tightly coiled, this is the dark horse with time in bottle it will build generosity and open. A loverly perfume with a savoury hit. Red fruits, a wine often paired with fish. Restrained.  Slatey, fine tannin with a little more grip a

Vintage 2021
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+

Nerello Mascalese from Etna, Sicily

Passopisciaro Contrada ‘S’ Sciaranuova Nerello Mascelese 2021

Meaning New Lava Flow it's young soils have not broken down to release as much nutrient as the olds flows. Treating the vines mean and keeping them lean! Such an interesting comparison in flavour profile with the Guardiola. Brooding, there’s something inviting and seductive about it.It has an incredible amount to offer. Beautifully balanaced. Earthier more secondary characters with savoury bits. Blossoming in the glass fruit comes through quickly with a lift of rose perfume. Just like the

Vintage 2021
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+

Nerello Mascalese from Etna, Sicily

Passopisciaro Contrada ‘G’ Guardiola Nerello Mascelese 2021

Guardiola higher elevation puts it on the more elegant side of the scales! Very together on the nose, seamless and complete. Long and fine, exceptional length, layering and balance with great depth of fruit. Perfume dancing over the top of red and darker fruit. Layers of excellent tannin with playful grip. Licks of spice, savoury bits and beyond. Camphor, fine tabacco, slate and liquorice. An absolute ripper! NOTE: I tasted these 12 months after Eric Guido in June 2024.The prestige of

Vintage 2021
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+
Add to cart

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