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One thing is certain, you’ll never run short of choice!
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia!
Founding Figures – The Greek colonisation marked a shift from vine grown in the wild to planned viticulture around 800 BC the Romans dramatically expanded production around 200 BC. The Italians never looked back!
Area Planted – Around 700,000 hectares making around 19% of the world’s wine!
Number of Wineries – Soave alone is made by 3,500 producers. That’s around the same number of wineries as in all of Australia! From gargistes to industrial scale conglomerates every Italian has a winemaker in the family.
Established Regions – Every region in Italy produces wine! The most prestigious region Piedmont is home to the stunning Nebbiolos of Barolo & Barbaresco. The Chianti and Brunello of Tuscany following hot on Piedmont’s heals. These are just a drop in the ocean!
In typical Italian style the classification systems of each region vary and are often skewed by influential persons with much to gain over the quality of the industry. As always we need to rely on our taste buds as the ultimate decider of quality!
Most Common Varieties – In his book ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy’ Ian D’Agata documents around 500 Italian grape varieties, by no means the complete set! Around 350 of these have been granted authorized status. There’s plenty to try! We’ve seen a push to save some of the notable, rare varietals like the white Nascetta and Arneis from Piedmont.
Whilst we have seen an ingress of French Varietals, the most notable being the Cabernet Varietals + Syrah used to make the Super Tuscans, the Italians have, by and large stayed true to their roots.
White – Whites of note: Arneis (Piedmont), Cataratto (Sicily), Fiano (southwest coast), Friulano (Friuli), Gargenaga (Veneto – the Soave grape), Greco di Tufo (southwest coast), Malvasia Bianca (throughout Italy), Moscato Blanc (Piedmont), Pecorino (Abruzzo), Pinot Grigo (Why?), Ribolla Gialla (Friulli), Trebbiano (Abruzzo), Verdicchio (Marche) and Vermentino (Sardinia, Tuscany and Liguria).
Red – Aglianico (Campania), Barbera (Piedmont), Corvina blended with Rondinella to make Amarone, Dolcetto (Piedmont), Malvasia Nera (Puglia), Montepuliciano (Tuscany), Nebbiolo (Piedmont), Negaromaro (Puglia), Nero d’Avola (Sicily), Primitivo (Puglia), Sagrantino (Umbria) and Sangiovese (Tuscany).
Up and Coming Regions – Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco, around the world we have seen Amarone, Chianti, Soave, Prosecco, Verdicchio and the wines of Puglia gain strong recognition. In recent times the increasing cost of Barolo in particular has seen exploration of Nebbiolo from Alto Piedmonte and Valtellina. At the opposite end of the country, in part due to the investment of heavy hitters like ‘Barolo Boy’ Marco di Grazie (Terre Nere) and Andrea Franchetti (Passopisciaro) the Nerello Mascelese (red) and Carricante (white) wines of Etna, Sicily have become world recognised. Nerello Mascelese being described as some as the Barolo of the South or a cross between Nebbiolo and Pinot. I prefer to call it delicious!
Showing of wines
Red brick dust. Red flowers, heart shape. A little more serious tannins than Monvigliero. Flowing and tapered, heart-shaped, of length. Delicacy. Time will see this fill out nicely. Super vibrant red fruit with a lick of baking spice. Fine line of acid, playful grip to the tannins. Long flavour.ID 94 Points GW 96+ Points
Perfumed. Wonderful shape and flow. Savoury and earthy with roses. A certain delicacy. Beautifully spiced, aromatically a little more developed yet fresh and vibrant, playful with a generosity. Clearly needs a little more time to come together and settle the acid tannin complex layering in nicely. Long and nutty tannins. The freshness of the 2021 vintage.A superb expression of Verduno.Gardini 98 Points ID 94 Points GW 93+ Points
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Bold and ripe fruit with a richness on the nose that needs time to settle. The faded flowers are really coming through with time in the glass. The umami needs time to pull back. More balanced on the palate than nose in its youth. Fresh, vibrant and energetic the acid comes through fine and long with a darkness from that tar / licorice / slate character around a core of red fruit. Such a flavourful wine.Gardini 96 Points ID 91+ Points GW 95 Points
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Classic Sordo Perno, The darkness and oppulence of fruit on the nose. The palate very tightly would closed. Yet you can see the core of fruit behind it. Juvenille and in need of the usual 5 years to settle. Everything in its place and ready to go. Inkling of the truffle and secondary character.Grab a 2021 Ca' di Press Barolo 'Perno' for a tasty side by side.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedID 94
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Fascinating Gabutti. Black tea with sappy spice. Savoury. Excellent layered tannins of grip. Tightly wound Gabutti patience required. That tar / licorice /slate thing in spades.Gardini 96 Points ID 94 Points GW 94 Points
Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo
Fascinating to see this wine for the first time. Plush chocolatey and full rich round fruit palate. Earth nutty ripe serious tannin playing in the mid-palate firm yet of serious quality the acid tannin complex is excellent a little baking spice. Perfumed nuttiness, a lick of the macerative character violets, grape skins note.ID 94 Points GW 96 Points
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Dark horse. Brooding, it looks a little mean at the moment. It will definitely fall into line and become a generous and juicy wine. A gravity and immediate presence to it. A load of complexity here a little coffee and tea and bit more Serralunga. Long firm tannins. ID 92+ Points
Ravera = generosity with crunchy fruit and playful front mid-palate tannin, that Sordo élévage, so much fun! ‘Ravishing red’ as usual, a wave of roses and red cherry. Quite lush, but holds its shape as all that red rolls to the pinpoint, tingling finish. It’s no wonder Ravera has risen so much in people’s estimation over recent years. Serious Barolo of a distinct style.
Opening with juby cherry fruit that resolved beautifully in the glass, a slight lift in the structural tannins compared with the Ravera, remaining plush & playful! The star cru of an otherwise workmanlike comune, this is exactly why Monvigliero is so widely appreciated. It has the range of generous Barolo things; cherry and strawberry notes now, probably in youthful mode, but with the usual cherry-skin, raisin and smoky elements just apparent. Overall such an ambassador for Barolo, just this sid
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Showing tannins of Castiglione Falletto, even and long. Darker and brooding. This is going to a cracker in time. Was immense after a day in the glass! This is the darkest of the 4 Castiglione cru, with its dark red fruits of cherry and cranberry. It usually shows more immediate plummy ripeness and overt generosity, but this time it’s more tightly wound. Plenty of texture and flavour, but needs time. A beauty.
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Took the second longest to reveal more of itself. Like the other wines in the bracket it demands time in the bottle. Perfume combined with secondary complexity the name of the game here! This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Firm, taut and fleshy, this is typical of this part of Perno, the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Tannins seem very ripe this year…but they
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Undoubtedly the best Fontana Barolo Classico I’ve had! Brooding yet open - perhaps explained by the mix of Castiglione Falletto (brooding) and La Morra (open) fruit.Undoubtedly the best Fontana Barolo Classico I’ve had. A little sappy, resinous (in a nice way) layer of tannin combines with ripe even line of nutty tannin, fruit comes, building through the mid palate and lingers. This just needs time. It has that Castiglione Falleto youthful brooding nature to it. Give it a couple of yea
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