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Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.
Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.
Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.
First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!
Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.
Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine
Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.
Most Common Varieties
White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.
Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.
Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.
Showing of wines
Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire
Pur Sang, meaning ‘thoroughbred’ in French, originated from Didier Dagueneau’s frustration at wine writers constantly referencing that he ploughed this site by horse. The first label featured a horsehide rug image, if you get the joke. One of Dagueneau’s historic superstars, it comes from a 30-year-old, densely planted vineyard called La Folie (madness) in Saint-Laurent-l’Abbaye. Farmers wondered at Dagueneau buying the land, which was not a vineyard at the time (it had been long ago
Pinot Noir from Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits
Moderate reduction dominates the nose at present. There is both better complexity and mid-palate density to the still supple and delicious medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a more powerful and noticeably more structured finale. This has fine development potential and is a wine that will need at least some patience. Drink: 2030+Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-91 Points
Chardonnay from Meursault, Côte du Beaune
“The 2023 Meursault Poruzots 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with dried honey, almond and walnut scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is very well defined, with gorgeous apricot and Clementine notes, a silver bead of acidity and a poised finish that belies that slightly higher alcohol content. It’s very long and enticing.”Neal Martin, Vinous 93-95 PointsNotes of white flowers, peach and nutmeg introduce the 2023 Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots, a medium to full-bodied, layered and
Chardonnay from Meursault, Côte du Beaune
An attractively layered nose combines notes of pear, apple, lemon zest and a touch of matchstick character, all of which is again trimmed in subtle but not imperceptible wood. The succulent and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors aren't as concentrated or powerful possess though they are noticeably finer on the sappy and balanced finale this is dry in the best sense. Lovely stuff that is really quite classy. ♥ Sweet spot OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burghound 91-94 PointsThe 2023
Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits
This is also aromatically perfumed with better layering to the spicier aromas of mostly red cherry and rose petal. There is markedly more refinement to the seductively, even generously, textured medium weight flavors that also exude a subtle bead of minerality on the impressively long, balanced and more complex finale. This is excellent and is a wine that could be approached young but reward a decade plus of cellaring. (from a .52 ha parcel) 2032+ ♥ Sweet spot OutstandingAllen Meadows, Bur
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
“An overtly floral-suffused nose speaks of airy red berry scents that are liberally laced with a lovely range of spice elements as well as subtle earth and humus nuances. There is markedly better complexity to the medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent punch and this sense of vibrancy also can be found on the long and quite firm finish that is moderately austere but not really rustic, indeed I would go so far as to describe this as a Pruliers of relative refinement, which isn't something
Pinot Noir from Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits
A slightly more elegant nose features notes of poached plum, black raspberry, violet and anise hints. There is a notably finer mouthfeel to the attractively textured medium weight flavors that conclude in a firmer and better-balanced finale where a touch of austerity slowly emerges. 2028+ (from a .42 ha parcel)Allen Meadows, Burghound
Chardonnay from Chassagne-Montrachet, Côte du Beaune
“The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has more mineralité on the nose than other Premier Crus from the domaine. Crushed chalk and flinty scents permeate the subtle yellow plum and jasmine aromas. The palate is tensile from the start, with intense orange pith and apricot notes and a complex, quite persistent finish. There is a sense of completeness here that is already present. Bon vin.”Neal Martin, Vinous 92-94 PointsDiscreet wood influence is present on the
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
Moderate wood surrounds the ripe vaguely liqueur-like aromas of various dark berries, spice, violet and lavender. The vibrant and beautifully textured middleweight flavors, indeed it's almost silky thanks to the fine-grained tannins supporting the lingering finish that firms up noticeably. This is an excellent Gevrey villages with good aging potential. Drink 2030+Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points As readers may remember, the 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1859 derives from old vines in
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
“Dense dark purple. Powerful plums, a graphite note as well, significant density, the fruit swells right across the palate, a huge volume but the ripeness is perfectly judged, with an excellent length. This is very impressive. Reveling in the warmer vintage because the tannins are riper.” Jasper Morris
Shiraz/Syrah from Cornas, Northern Rhône
Five in a Row for Clape with 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019 all stunning vintages! I tasted four different components of the 2020 Cornas from foudre. From 40-year-old vines in La Côte, a medium to full-bodied sample with attractive menthol, red plum and violet notes, ample structure but a bit short (92 - 94). From 50- to 60-year-old vines in La Sabarotte, an earthier, more savory example, with a rich, velvety texture and crisp acids (93 - 95). From 60- to 70-year-old vines in La Côte, a wine
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
Boillot has always done a remarkable job with this vineyard and 2016 will only add to that track record. There is gorgeous complexity to the fresh and notably ripe red berry fruit, humus and pungent earth scented nose. The succulent, dense and powerful broad-shouldered flavors brim with copious dry extract that mostly manages to buffer the very firm tannic spine on the superbly long finish that flashes just a trace of Nuits style rusticity. This very serious and built-to-age effort is breathtaki
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