Location

France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

Showing of wines

Pinot Noir from Pommard, Côte du Beaune

Domaine Thierry Violot-Guillemard Pommard 1er ‘Les Rugiens’ 2018

As expected this is delicious, and that little bit more giving over the 2016. I’d go so far as to say it’s drinking well now, again like all of the wines of the estate I’ve tried, a little extra time will be its friend. While I say it is drinking well now, I mean as a young Burgundy, the metamorphisis that occurs with great Burgundy always requires time. It’ll be smack bang in the drinking window well before the 2016. This is a case of celebrating the difference not necessarily choosing

Vintage 2018
$310
$300ea in any 3+
$290ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Pruliers’ 2020

It hard to talk about Nuits-Saint-Georges without talking about Henri Gouges. For near a century the Domaine has quietly been working away to expand their holding and continually improve their wines."A more deeply pitched and brooding nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of cassis plum liqueur and pungent earth where the latter is also found on the vibrant and well-detailed big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors that deliver excellent depth and persistence. This is not as dense as the bes

Vintage 2020
$310
$300ea in any 3+
$290ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘1er Cru Mont des Oiseaux’ 2023

“The 2023 Nuits Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux ler Cru, matured in 35% new oak, has an elegant, quite mineral-driven bouquet that is vivacious and charming (like the 2022). The palate is silky smooth on the entry, very well balanced and unerringly pure, with a light yet energetic finish that has just the right amount of piquancy. This is an underrated cuvée from the Domaine that should not be overlooked.”Neal Martin, Vinous 91-93 Points

Vintage 2023
$310
$300ea in any 3+
$290ea in any 6+
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Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Tradition Base 17 1st Disgorgement NV
The Fizz Master at Work!

Blend from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Tradition Base 17 1st Disgorgement NV

Egly easily sits in my list of top 5 Champagne Houses The top end of the Champgne spectrum is often perceived (due to a lot of marketing) to be the Super Cuvées like Dom Perignon and Krug. Don’t get me wrong these are great wines. The thing is when you get the chance and taste the top wines from Grower Champagne houses like Egly-Ouriet you find yourself taking things to an all new level. Their vineyards are immaculate, the fruit comes in with so much intensity you could happily drink the fini

Vintage 2015
$311
$301ea in any 3+
$291ea in any 6+

Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé, Centre Loire

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Vin de France Blanc Etc 2023

These sites produce the most direct, accessible expression of Pouilly-Fumé. Under Louis-Benjamin's guidance, its quality has improved dramatically, now rivalling his other wines. Layered and already open, the 2023 offers enormous complexity and pleasure for a young Dagueneau. Of course, it will only get better after 3 to 10 years in bottle.The first bottle of Didier's wines I devoured was a bottle of Silex in 2001 with Doc when I was working with him at Yarra Yering. We were looking to

Vintage 2023
$312
$302ea in any 3+
$292ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Pommard, Côte du Beaune

Domaine Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Pommard 2019

Resistance was futile, I had to crack one of these (May 2023). Kelley's note is bang on. Though it has certainly resolved a little since his tasting. I concur that waiting a decade will offer up something special. The missing piece of the tasting note jigsaw, texture. Important for Pommard given the significant evolution from structured wine produced by the village to the seamless, refined elegant tannins of this and many other examples. Think Thierry Violot-Guillemard, Leroux et al.The

Vintage 2019
$315
$305ea in any 3+
$295ea in any 6+
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Pinot Noir from Vosne-Romanée, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat Vosne-Romanée 2022

This is also wonderfully fresh though with more deeply pitched and spicier aromas. There is even better mid-palate density to the delicious, vibrant and velvet-textured flavors that display focused power on the compact, serious and impressively long finale. This is a very good Vosne villages that is worth considering. Top valueAllen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 PointsThe 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village is deeper-pitched than its Chambolle counterpart, evoking dark berries, plums and cherrie

Vintage 2022
$315
$300ea in any 3+
$285ea in any 6+
Domaine SC Guillard Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'Lavaux St Jacques' 2017
Layers of Silky Tannins!

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine SC Guillard Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Lavaux St Jacques’ 2017

The Lavaux is situated below Poissenot and next to Clos Saint Jacques. This Lavaux is a superb effort, a complex array of red and dark fruits, wild strawberry, raspberry, cassis, liqorice and an exquisite deeply scented fragrant lift. The aromas of this wine are captivating. The palate is superbly structured with layers and layers of the silkiest tannins one could imagine that coat your mouth and resonate for minutes, the length prodigious. A classic. 2030-2050.

Vintage 2017
$320
$310ea in any 3+
$300ea in any 6+

Chardonnay from Meursault, Côte du Beaune

Domaine Patrick Javillier Meursault ‘Cuvée Tête du Murger’ 2018

From Les Casse-Têtes and Meursault Les Murgers de Monthelie. “This is aromatically similar to the Clousots but with more floral elements. There is even better volume and mid-palate density to the muscular medium weight flavors that coat the mouth with dry extract on the overtly powerful finish where a hint of bitter lemon arises. This is a very serious Meursault villages that should amply repay up to a decade of cellaring. This too is recommended. ♥ 2026+Burghound

Vintage 2018
$320
$310ea in any 3+
$300ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine de l’Arlot Nuits-Saint-Georges ‘1er Cru Mont des Oiseaux’ 2020

“The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru offers dark cherries, hints of peppermint and spice on its quite extravagant nose. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy dark berry fruit, good volume here, fine acidity, hints of white pepper and sage furnishing the composed finish.”Neal Martin, Vinous 89-91 Points

Vintage 2020
$320
$310ea in any 3+
$300ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Trapet Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Ostréa 2022

A beautifully layered if somewhat reserved nose grudgingly offers up its array of wild dark berries, anise and violet scents. The delicious, concentrated and caressing medium weight flavors possess a lovely sense of refinement on the slightly less powerful mineral-driven finish. This is qualitatively similar to the straight Gevrey villages but the two wines are quite different. Drink 2029+Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-91 PointsThe 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Ostrea is excellent, mingling ar

Vintage 2022
$320
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Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Montagne de Reims

Champagne Benoît Marguet Ambonnay ‘Les Crayères’ Grand Cru 2018

Fruit from 'Les Crayères' makes its way into some of Champagnes very best wines. It's the source of Egly-Ouriets Blanc de Noir.The 2018 is 100% Pinot with just 1838 bottle produced. Historically it has been blended with a portion of Chardonnay. Like all of his wines it is has no dosage.

Vintage 2018
$321
$306ea in any 3+
$291ea in any 6+

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