Size & Type
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Piedmont
Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.
While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.
Founding Figures
The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.
On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.
Area Planted
Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.
The Communes
It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!
Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.
We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!
The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.
Most Common Varieties
Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.
White
Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.
Red
The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Wow! A sensational Rocche. At this early stage in its life it sit with harmony, together. Expressive, a long even palate, stunning tannins that caress. The perfume is intoxicating, faded flowers of Castiglione Falletto. A superb core of fruit of exceptional length.Year in year out this is in the top 3 of Sordo 8 Barolo Crus. It looks like this year will be no different. Savoury, a little salty and earthy. This will be long lived. Beautifullly composed
Greater complexity than Ravera at this early stage in its life. Florals, earthy, truffled layers on red fruits with classic roses and woody herbs at play. Hints of baking spice, it feels a little more relaxed at this stage compared to the Ravera.Excellent tannins, fine, precise, long and even matching the fruit through the full length of the palate. Outstanding purity. A superb expression of Verduno.
Juicy red fruits that heart shaped Ravera profile, the fruit start broader across the palate and tapering away. Supple refined tannins, long juicy acid with a pleasing tang. Again grape first, tight-knit and pure.The most overtly acid of the Crus, it has loads more to come as the acid resolves with time and secondary development sees this relax and build generosity and complexity. A wonderful Ravera
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
The 2017 Barolo Coste di Rose is pretty, supple and inviting. Some of the tannins need to resolve, but this is a young Barolo after all. The Coste di Rose doesn't have the sensuality of the Albe or the pedigree of the Viole, but it nevertheless has so much to give. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, mint, crushed rocks and sage are some of the many notes that linger. I won't be surprised if the 2017 is even better than this note suggests once it softens a bit. Galloni
Nebbiolo from Bussia, Monforte d'Alba
Oh so pretty! This is very well played. Bussia is right in the north of Monforte, which as a whole was very poorly defined during the MGA classification. It tends to produce wines of more elegance than many of the Crus further south in Monforte. Barale’s 2018s have been beautifully composed. The Bussia tannins are fine and restrained. The development and oxidative handling demands quality fruit and it has that with a solid core of red fruits layered in with savoury, earthy notes. I’m enjoyin
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
A blend of fruit from 30% the plush La Morra Rive, 30% the flowing tannins of Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% structural acid-driven Serralunga vineayrds of Baudana & Broglio.A classic blend of Nebbiolo from three villages, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga, the 2021 Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo is a beauty, starting with its aromas of red berry, blue flower and eucalyptus. The vibrant palate is elegant and youthfully austere - a great characteristic for a wine
Fruit for the Fratelli Alessandria 2021 Barolo del Comune di Verduno comes from five vineyard sites in Verduno: Riva Rocca, Rocche dell'Olmo, Campasso, Pisapola and Boscato. This was the first Barolo del Comune di Verduno to hit the market (with the 2017 vintage). The bouquet focuses on redcurrant and tart cherry, and there is a pinch of cinnamon buried in there as well. This is a pretty Barolo that manages elegance and an easy-drinking style. This 20,000-bottle release ages in Slavonian and Fre
Red brick dust. Red flowers, heart shape. A little more serious tannins than Monvigliero. Flowing and tapered, heart-shaped, of length. Delicacy. Time will see this fill out nicely. Super vibrant red fruit with a lick of baking spice. Fine line of acid, playful grip to the tannins. Long flavour.ID 94 Points GW 96+ Points
Perfumed. Wonderful shape and flow. Savoury and earthy with roses. A certain delicacy. Beautifully spiced, aromatically a little more developed yet fresh and vibrant, playful with a generosity. Clearly needs a little more time to come together and settle the acid tannin complex layering in nicely. Long and nutty tannins. The freshness of the 2021 vintage.A superb expression of Verduno.Gardini 98 Points ID 94 Points GW 93+ Points
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Bold and ripe fruit with a richness on the nose that needs time to settle. The faded flowers are really coming through with time in the glass. The umami needs time to pull back. More balanced on the palate than nose in its youth. Fresh, vibrant and energetic the acid comes through fine and long with a darkness from that tar / licorice / slate character around a core of red fruit. Such a flavourful wine.Gardini 96 Points ID 91+ Points GW 95 Points
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Classic Sordo Perno, The darkness and oppulence of fruit on the nose. The palate very tightly would closed. Yet you can see the core of fruit behind it. Juvenille and in need of the usual 5 years to settle. Everything in its place and ready to go. Inkling of the truffle and secondary character.Grab a 2021 Ca' di Press Barolo 'Perno' for a tasty side by side.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedID 94
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