Size & Type
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Piedmont
Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.
While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.
Founding Figures
The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.
On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.
Area Planted
Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.
The Communes
It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!
Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.
We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!
The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.
Most Common Varieties
Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.
White
Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.
Red
The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2017 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! I rarely buy wine site unseen. I did so with the 2016 M8. I couldn’t resist! The story and experience behind Allan Manley’s launch of his own venture has seen him work with a veritable who’s who of Barolo ending with Maria Theresa Mascarello where he still works. As you might expect he’s a proponent of blended Barolo vs
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2018 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! "Lustrous mid ruby with orange tinges. Lifted, perfumed red fruit of great appeal with complex, minty oak notes. A mouthful of juicy cherry fruit with supple acidity and fantastic, crunchy tannins. Freshness and bite combined with elegance. Hugely appealing."Walter Speller, Jancis
The 2018 Barolo Monvigliero, another new wine in this range, is dazzling. That's not much of a surprise, as the 2018 has always been gorgeous from barrel. A touch of whole clusters adds aromatic nuance and lift to this super-classic, sculpted Barolo. The Monvigliero impresses with its purity, delineation and class. Superb. Drink 2028-2048 Galloni
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
The 2018 Barolo Cerequio is a new wine in this range. Soaring aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit give the Cerequio its effusive personality. Nuanced and deep, with tremendous complexity and tons of character, the Cerequio is dazzling. This is everything a great Barolo from Cerequio should be. In other words: textbook. More over, it's one of the best wines of this very uneven vintage. Drink 2028 - 2048 Galloni
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2008 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2015. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange and spices. T
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).The E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2020 Barolo Via Nuova opens to a little more dark fruit and ripe berry in this vintage. The wine is buttoned up from all sides into a tight little package of aromas. You get orange peel, bright cherry and a f
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the Vietti 2019 Barolo Lazzarito is a historic cornerstone wine of this mighty portfolio. It is also one of the Vietti Barolos that consistently delivers extreme quality and pleasure with each new release. Like the other wines presented here, winemaking is straightforward, with submerged cap fermentations lasting 30 to 35 days (although those times were reduced in 2019 because this vintage was not suited to long maceration times). Serralunga d'Alba always deliv
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Lazzarito stands out as one of the strongest wines in this portfolio of new releases from Vietti. With fruit from Serralunga d'Alba, the 2020 Barolo Lazzarito comes in at a very high threshold in terms of complexity, offering dark cherry, crème de cassis, violet macaron, dried herb and lavender. The wine's perfumes remind me of the south of France in summer. It shows elegant tannins, streamlined intensity and good acidity. Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 96+ PointsThe 2020 Barolo La
Picked on October 9 and 10, the 2020 Barolo Ravera has plenty of Ravera classicism and tension, but also feels a bit light in the mid-palate. Ravera is never a huge wine in body, but the depth is often there, even if expressed in an understated and more linear manner. The 2020 lacks that depth. Red-toned fruit, blood orange, mint, spice and white pepper lend brilliance throughout.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 94 PointsThe Vietti 2020 Barolo Ravera offers dark fruit, cherry and blackcurrant
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