Size & Type
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Piedmont
Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.
While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.
Founding Figures
The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.
On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.
Area Planted
Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.
The Communes
It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!
Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.
We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!
The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.
Most Common Varieties
Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.
White
Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.
Red
The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
On openning the Pira was all beefstock, savoury with a hint of reduction. Revisited with 15 hours in the glass. There you have it DJ Luca has been at it again. The fruit has come to the fore. The faded flowers so common with great wines from Castiglione Falleto are shining along with red fruit, orange and a hint of baking spice. It’s the shape, focus, mouthfeel and exceptional interplay between fruit of depth and length weighted beautifully against long even tannin matched to vibrant acid that
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The Clerico Barolo 'Aeroplanservaj' sees us moving to the Teodore MGA in the Commune of Serralunga. A beautiful perfume, red fruits and vibrant energy. Excellent fruit profile building to show an exceptional mid-palate with faded flowers, tea leaves and blood orange at play. Tannins are bold and firm, grape first and pure. With patience, they will yield something quite beautiful.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedThe Domenico Clerico 2021 Barolo Aeroplan Servaj is a powerful expression of Nebbio
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Rocche di Castiglione has to be one of my favourite Crus. The wines have incredible harmony, they are just so complete. Given Oddero's consistency through their range I'd say you're in for very safe bet here!The 2019 Barolo opens to a lean appearance with a very vibrant Nebbiolo color that shines with dark ruby highlights. There is dried cherry and candied fruit aromas on the bouquet. Those fruit layers cede to light spice, lilac and campfire ash. The beauty in With fruit from Castiglio
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Cavallotto's Riserva 'Vignolo' is such a delicious wine, poised, fragrant, such incredible layers of flavour & the rare seamless harmony only the greats seem to manage. Cavallotto are making beautiful wines of great presence, harmony and detail. The Riserva Vignolo is always a little bolder than the Riserva Vigna San Guiseppe. They both have that hallmark Castiglione tannin layered, supple and of line and length. Underbrush, tilled soil, blue flower, pipe tobacco and wild berry aromas mingle to
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
A little lift blows off quickly. Serious wine with completeness and intensity. Seamless on palate, the shape and flow is superb. Superb tannin. Layered long and fine. So flowing. When this builds generosity and the acid resolves it will be something special. Elegance and delicacy. Powerful fruit tamed by the acids. Deceptive length and depth. A lovely suite of flavours and aromas.Gardini 97+ Points ID 95 GW 97
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2020 Barolo Rupestris is elegant, sculpted wine. It shows the mid-weight structure of the year nicely. Sweet red cherry fruit, mint, chalk, white pepper, orange peel and dried flowers open with some coaxing. I would leave this alone in the cellar for a few years, as time in bottle is essential here. I won't be surprise if this fills out a bit over the coming years, as is often the case here. Drink 2026-2045Antonio Galloni - NR as per request from Cappellano
Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo
Give it the requisite air time & it reveals all! The 2019 Barolo Brunate emerges from a tiny half-hectare plot at the highest elevation in the vineyard. It presents a beguiling mix of all the balsamic notes typical of Brunate, along with an extra bit of mid-palate texture that comes from aging in a slightly smaller cask vis-a-vis the other Barolos. Firm tannins need time to soften. Drink 2026-2044Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 PointsPietro highlighted the soil in their Brunate vineyard,
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
An excellent Rupestris. Cappellano somehow manage to unfurl the Serralunga, Gabutti beast, taming it. Still tightly coiled and needing more time to fully resolve. All the components are there in all the right places and all the right levels, with exceptional Serralunga fruit and tannins. A darkness, brooding, tea and slightly dried orange zest, earthy, savoury, with a core of fruit of great depth and length. 2019 is a year of refined ripe tannins of depth. The fruit has palpable energy and wonde
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This is exceptional! Fruit from the famed 'Rocche Rivera' Lieu Dit. It sits within Scarone Cru adjacent to Rocche di Castiglione with which it was historically combined.Matt Large calls Francesco Veriso a student of wine, always learning, evolving & refining. Clearly he is a very good student.Aromas of forest floor, dog rose, sun-warmed hay, berry and menthol come to the forefront on the stunning 2021 Scarrone Vigna Rocche Rivera along with whiffs of cinnamon. Showing great tensi
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