Piedmont

Barolo

Home to the Wine of Kings and the King of Wine, Barolo has a history dating back to the 1400’s. Until the early 1900’s the wines of the region were largely sweet reds.

A Guide to the Barolo Region, Piedmont, Italy & its Wines.

Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.

While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.

Founding Figures

The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.

On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.

Area Planted

Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.

The Communes

It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!

Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.

We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!

The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.

Most Common Varieties

Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.

White

Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.

Red

The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.


2021 Marcarini & Poderi Colla 6-Packs


Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo

Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021

A very strong La Serra from Marcarini. Oppulent, generous, shows off the Commune of La Morra in full flight! Savoury, with a drip of salty blood over red fruit and blood orange. Flowing, plush, round & fine. Delicious. The best La Serra in years. Beautiful development. Ripe, fine tannins. A long, long finish. Incredibly moreish even at this youthful point in its life! Will make for a lovely comparison with Sordo’s 2021 La Serra.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barolo

Vintage 2021
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
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Nebbiolo from Bussia, Monforte d'Alba

Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia ‘Dardi Le Rose’ 2021

The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and

Vintage 2021
$189
$182ea in any 3+
$175ea in any 6+
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A Splash from the Cellars!

Nebbiolo from La Morra, Barolo

Marcarini Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2016

'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of

Vintage 2016
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
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Showing of wines

Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo ‘Cannubi’ 2021

Fenochhio's plot of Cannubi was purchased in 1973 and replanted in 1974. Here the soils are sandier soil than his Bussia in Monforte. The vineyard in the Cannubi Boschis sub-section from the lowest part of Cannubi. A very elegant, sophisticated Cannubi, with a wonderful core of vibrant red fruit, laced with a dried bouquet of flowers. A fine line of acid keeping the wine super fresh. A classic vintage. Delicate with fine dusty tannins, an incredible perfume lifting from the glass. Evolution in t

Vintage 2021
$267
$257ea in any 3+
$247ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo

Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva ‘Perno’ 2004

Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! Winery Direct from an exceptional Barolo Year! Update Dec 2023 Devoured at a Christmas function, the 2004 Perno is right in the zone. Sitting in that perfectly mature spot. Earthy and truffled, seamless and harmonious, poised, balanced, flowing and delicious. This aged Barolo is in its prime drinking beautifully.A perfect match to dry-aged duck breast with a white truffle and cured cherry sauce at Al Dente.From my experience o

Vintage 2004
$268
$258ea in any 3+
$248ea in any 6+
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Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva 'Gabutti' 2004
The Bold!

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva ‘Gabutti’ 2004

The 2004 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2016, 2015 & 2008. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange

Vintage 2004
$268
$258ea in any 3+
$248ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Margherita Otto ‘M8’ Barolo 2016

This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2016 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! I rarely buy wine site unseen. In this case I couldn't resist! The story and experience behind Allan Manley's launch of his own venture has him working with a veritable who's who of Barolo ending with Maria Theresa Mascarello where he still works. As you might expect he's a proponent of blended Barolo vs single cru. I can't wait

Vintage 2016
Original price was: $295.Current price is: $275.
$265ea in any 3+
$255ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Massolino “Parussi” Barolo 2021

On the crest of the ridge, Parussi sits right next to the Serralunga border on the Castiglione Falletto side. The blue, iron-rich Sant'Agata marls here are a little lighter and more oxygenated, with more silt and less clay than in Serralunga. This makes for more vigour in the vines and a completely different style of wine.A divine perfume of faded flowers, expressive and so long. Incredibly even long tannin, nutty. Heading to a riper cherry flavour profile again with the energy for typic

Vintage 2021
$276
$266ea in any 3+
$256ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Massolino “Parafada” Barolo 2021

Planted in 1957, Parafada was the Massolino family’s first prime parcel in Serralunga. It is still home to their oldest vines. Legend has it that Giovanni Massolino planted these vines when he was just 17 years old! Today these 69-year-old vines produce smaller berries with more concentrated fruit as a result. Located between Gabutti and Lazzarito, Massolino’s 1.2-hectare parcel rises steeply from 300 to 340 metres above sea level and faces due south, catching the full face of the sun. The a

Vintage 2021
$276
$266ea in any 3+
$256ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Massolino “Margheria” Barolo 2021

The Margheria vineyard is one of Serralunga’s most important and illustrious sites. The Massolino family bought their first parcel here in 1964, and the remainder came online during the ’70s. The current holding is 1.5 hectares. Sitting at 280 metres above sea level, Margheria is a very chalky vineyard with a good percentage of sand (which brings elegance), while the high calcium carbonate content brings vibrant, mineral energy to the natural depth of Serralunga.Of the 3 Cru's Massol

Vintage 2021
$276
$266ea in any 3+
$256ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Villero' 2016
The Super Stars!

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2016

As tight as ... usual. Opens to quite pronounced pot-purri and some fresh-flower fragrance. Fabulously framed full palate with unevolved but full, textured, firm and forceful. Long. Seamless acid/tannin of Castiglione (and St Julien) Tight knit, this one. Wonderful. Crystal clear. Darker more broody than the 2015 which had a few more months off the boat when I first saw it. Fresh and vibrant / energetic. Bold, yet very good long, layered slatey tannins compared with the 2015. Wonderful texture h

Vintage 2016
$278
$268ea in any 3+
$258ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Mosconi’ 2020

The E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2020 Barolo Mosconi has some of the extra ripeness of the vintage with cherry cream syrup, grenadine, watermelon candy and a drop of Pastis. The wine ends on a powerful note with a balanced combination of fruit and fine oak tannins. The palate is very alive, and the fruit feels very vibrant at this young stage.Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 96 Points AG 95 JD 98

Vintage 2020
$278
$263ea in any 3+
$248ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Vigna Rionda’ 2020

In recent times, Vigna Rionda gets spoken about as the grand cru of the Langhe – altitude, exposure and soil profile play an integral part. As expected, this is Giampaolo’s flagship wine. The oak regime is similar to the ‘Marenca’ but with a larger portion of newer oak – around 30%. Ultra-powerful and layered in fragrances, flavours and textures. Smoke, graphite, incense, stock/porcini, sweet tobacco, violets. All this character is underpinned by a fierce, tingling acid line and a comp

Vintage 2020
$280
$270ea in any 3+
$260ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Vigna Rionda’ 2021

In recent times, Vigna Rionda gets spoken about as the grand cru of the Langhe – altitude, exposure and soil profile play an integral part.As expected, this is Giampaolo’s flagship wine. The oak regime is similar to the ‘Marenca’ but with a larger portion of newer oak – around 30%.Ultra-powerful and layered in fragrances, flavours and textures. Smoke, graphite, incense, stock/porcini, sweet tobacco, violets. All this character is underpinned by a fierce, tingling acid line and

Vintage 2021
$285
$275ea in any 3+
$265ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo

Roagna Barolo del Comune di Barolo 2013

About Roagna Reading Roagna’s manifesto with my Vigneron’s cap on, it’s clear that they are driven to achieve excellence. In many ways, their approach reminds me of Yarra Yering. Pushing the boundaries with so many aspects of viticulture and winemaking, taking calculated risks, that, when successful, result in what are undoubtedly some of the best […]

Vintage 2013
$290
$285ea in any 3+
$280ea in any 6+

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