Size & Type
Other

Piedmont
Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.
While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.
Founding Figures
The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.
On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.
Area Planted
Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.
The Communes
It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!
Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.
We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!
The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.
Most Common Varieties
Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.
White
Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.
Red
The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.
Showing of wines
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Perno, always the darkest and most structured on release, is perhaps the wine in the Sordo Cru lineup that goes through the most dramatic metamorphosis with time. Monforte is the least defined of the Barolo Communes, the end result is a diversity of styles. Barolo from Monforte can have incredible power, darknesss and earthiness, less reliant on fruit than other communes, in recent times we have soon producers making finer, elegant, perfumed iterations. Sordo's Perno sits in the middle, perhaps
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Grace under pressure! Castiglione Falletto shining through with those faded flower. Excellent long tannins of substance and sophistication. A beguiling core of fruit, brooding, yet, you can see what is to come. Flow and shape. It feels very complete. Fine and long. It has that intrigue that steps it up another notch. Very good. Earthy and truffled, serious stuff. Persistence has you taking note as it dances along.Rocche di Castiglione and Villero in Castiglione Falletto consistently sit amon
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana, 2013 = Enough Said! The 2016 Barolo Baudana is laced with sweet red cherry, floral overtones and silky tannins, all of which make it one of the more refined, sensual Serralunga Barolos readers will come across. In this tasting, the Baudana impresses with its haunting aromatics and transparent expression of Nebbiolo. Like all of these wines, it needs time in bottle but it is super impressive, even in the early going.Galloni
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark bluebe
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
Fenochhio's plot of Cannubi was purchased in 1973 and replanted in 1974. Here the soils are sandier soil than his Bussia in Monforte. The vineyard in the Cannubi Boschis sub-section from the lowest part of Cannubi. A very elegant, sophisticated Cannubi, with a wonderful core of vibrant red fruit, laced with a dried bouquet of flowers. A fine line of acid keeping the wine super fresh. A classic vintage. Delicate with fine dusty tannins, an incredible perfume lifting from the glass. Evolution in t
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! Winery Direct from an exceptional Barolo Year! Update Dec 2023 Devoured at a Christmas function, the 2004 Perno is right in the zone. Sitting in that perfectly mature spot. Earthy and truffled, seamless and harmonious, poised, balanced, flowing and delicious. This aged Barolo is in its prime drinking beautifully.A perfect match to dry-aged duck breast with a white truffle and cured cherry sauce at Al Dente.From my experience o
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2004 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2016, 2015 & 2008. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello. The 2016 M8 is a blend of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte & Serralunga fruit! I rarely buy wine site unseen. In this case I couldn't resist! The story and experience behind Allan Manley's launch of his own venture has him working with a veritable who's who of Barolo ending with Maria Theresa Mascarello where he still works. As you might expect he's a proponent of blended Barolo vs single cru. I can't wait
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