Size & Type
Other

Piedmont
Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.
While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.
Founding Figures
The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.
On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.
Area Planted
Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.
The Communes
It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!
Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.
We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!
The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.
Most Common Varieties
Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.
White
Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.
Red
The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.
Showing of wines
"This is a medium-bodied Nebbiolo from a hot vintage with a ruby-tinged appearance. The 2017 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice shows generous inner fiber and richness with dried cherry, blackberry, plum and dark spice. Fruit for this wine comes from a beautiful amphitheater of vines with the perched town of Novello high up on the skyline. I love the especially smooth and soft quality to what is a powerful and lasting wine. "Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 95 Points
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello! Manly worked with Sandrone, Cavallotto and Altare before an extended stint with Maria-Therese Mascarello. When you look at these wineries the diversity of practices they employ, it makes for an exception foundation of experience to launch your own label as Alan did in 2015. From what I've tasted thus far it's only a matter of time before these wines reach the cult status of his peers.
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
This one's another argument for blending sites! From a disciple of Maria Theresa Mascarello! I've now had a chance to taste through a good wedge of 2020 Barolos. It reads as an interesting vintage. There are many tightly coiled wines at this point that will need time to build generosity. Manley's M8 is one of the highlights of my tasting thus far. It's a complete wine with a caressing shape and flow of fruit underpinned by long, even, layered, serious tannins. Complex with immediate generosity,
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
The 2008 Riserva we see the parallels with the 2015. The long structure is there, the complexity has built further, the wine is now fully comfortable wearing it's own skin, having resolved and built generosity. Of the 2015 it was clear that there was no chance to mistake the Gabutti, with its abundance of darker things; stock, porcini, graphite, smoke and black cherry. Under this very typical Serralunga ‘tarry/earthy’ mantle though, are other complexities of dried roses, orange and spices. T
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Sordo's Parussi always sits on the bolder side for the Cru, which it turns out has split soil types. Theirs being on soils more similar to those of Serralunga. The resulting structure shows in the wine. The 2008 is drinking beautifully, showing darker fruits and like the other 2008 Sordos seamless, with exceptional harmony and balance.This is such a great opportunity to look at different Crus in a horizontal from one producer!Matured Barolo straight from the cellars of Sordo ... Bring It
It's fascinating the from one of Barolos Northern most Crus in Monvigliero, moving to one of the Southern most in Ravera from Novello we see two Crus that are more playful and expressive in their youth. Here we typically see supple tannins, oppulent red fruits with front to mid-palate attack. Again the metamorphosis only time can offer us really is something special.Here's a chance to see a Ravera with a decade+ of bottle age on it and find out just how it transforms!This is such a great
Nebbiolo from Monforte d'Alba, Barolo
Perno, always the darkest and most structured on release, is perhaps the wine in the Sordo Cru lineup that goes through the most dramatic metamorphosis with time. Monforte is the least defined of the Barolo Communes, the end result is a diversity of styles. Barolo from Monforte can have incredible power, darknesss and earthiness, less reliant on fruit than other communes, in recent times we have soon producers making finer, elegant, perfumed iterations. Sordo's Perno sits in the middle, perhaps
Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo
Grace under pressure! Castiglione Falletto shining through with those faded flower. Excellent long tannins of substance and sophistication. A beguiling core of fruit, brooding, yet, you can see what is to come. Flow and shape. It feels very complete. Fine and long. It has that intrigue that steps it up another notch. Very good. Earthy and truffled, serious stuff. Persistence has you taking note as it dances along.Rocche di Castiglione and Villero in Castiglione Falletto consistently sit amon
Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo
Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana, 2013 = Enough Said! The 2016 Barolo Baudana is laced with sweet red cherry, floral overtones and silky tannins, all of which make it one of the more refined, sensual Serralunga Barolos readers will come across. In this tasting, the Baudana impresses with its haunting aromatics and transparent expression of Nebbiolo. Like all of these wines, it needs time in bottle but it is super impressive, even in the early going.Galloni
Nebbiolo from Commune di Barolo, Barolo
This one’s an argument for blending sites! The Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).This wine represents a blend of fruit from various sites, and 15,000 bottles were created. Showing a classical profile, the E. Pira e Figli - Chiara Boschis 2021 Barolo Via Nuova delivers a firm sense of inner fiber and richness with dark bluebe
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