Piedmont

Barolo

Home to the Wine of Kings and the King of Wine, Barolo has a history dating back to the 1400’s. Until the early 1900’s the wines of the region were largely sweet reds.

A Guide to the Barolo Region, Piedmont, Italy & its Wines.

Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.

While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.

Founding Figures

The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.

On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.

Area Planted

Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.

The Communes

It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!

Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.

We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!

The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.

Most Common Varieties

Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.

White

Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.

Red

The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.


2021 Marcarini & Poderi Colla 6-Packs


Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A very strong La Serra from Marcarini. Oppulent, generous, shows off the Commune of La Morra in full flight! Savoury, with a drip of salty blood over red fruit and blood orange. Flowing, plush, round & fine. Delicious. The best La Serra in years. Beautiful development. Ripe, fine tannins. A long, long finish. Incredibly moreish even at this youthful point in its life! Will make for a lovely comparison with Sordo’s 2021 La Serra.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barolo
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
$189
$182ea in any 3+
$175ea in any 6+

A Splash from the Cellars!

Poderi Colla Barbaresco ‘Roncaglie’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The Hit List from 2019 Barbaresco is Insane! Now this from one of Piedmont's God Fathers! The three Crus Roncaglie, Roncagliette and Roncaglini make superb wines. Colla's 2019 Roncaglie re-enforcing the reputation! Yes, it is still tight, yet straight out of the gate it is clear something special is going on. Put it this way, I just trippled my order!Stunning perfume, layered in savoury & slate notes over a core of red fruit with darkness at the edge. Mouthfeel is incredibly important wi
$180
$173ea in any 3+
$166ea in any 6+

Marcarini Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+

Filters & Sorting

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Villero’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Superb! An excellent Villero. Complete, pure, elegant, refined, such harmony in its youth bodes well for a little something special with the passage of time. The first time I had Sordo’s Villero was the 2015 and it blew my mind. 2013, 2016, 2017 followed. All superb. The 2019 is right up there. Seriously good.Right now across all the 2019's the acid sits marginally proud. For wines of this calibre I'm stoked to see the balance where it’s at in their youth. In just a few years it will r
$219
$212ea in any 3+
$205ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Gabutti' 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Ooh. Wow. So dense in aromatics that it’s hard to label them! Wait. Simply fabulous and the star of this first tasting. Insanely good, incredibly complete. Benchmark stuff.  Such a fragrance! This is mind boggling. Wonderful flow length+++. The sophistication of tannins here is insane. Here we see an incredibly complete wine. Such sophistication and power. There’s an elegance and lithe nature to this incredibly powerful beauty. The flowers are intoxicating. Again length +++. The sophisticat
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
$213ea in any 3+
$206ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Perno' 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Perno’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. Excellent, immediately took me to the 2010 Riserva. Wonderful density. Every sniff sees another scent wafting out of the glass. The tannins show the benefit of a long ripening season. Yes, they have structure, they are damn fine tannins of exceptional depth and length. Hints of tobacco, earth, savoury bits and such a long deep core of fruit. This will develop beautifull
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
$213ea in any 3+
$206ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Parussi' 2016
The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Parussi’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasure to be had. Opulent with again a step up in structure. Broody on the palate, should develop beautifully. As David puts it, it’s chubby. Immediate generosity on the nose. So much aroma and flavour. Mid-palate fruit weight here is insane. Rich and chocolatey with savoury dark fruit, hints of that faded flowers and tobacco. Earthy delicious and just so much pleasu
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Rocche di Castiglione' 2016
The Super Stars!
Again a controlled, blockbuster, with layers of dried and fading flowers, tobacco, cranberry and cherry liqueur. Huge, almost sweet palate. Long, but tight and relatively unevolved still, of course. Will be superb again. Such a complete wine yet tightly coiled and the moment, everything in it’s place and place for everything. Incredible tannin profile this year. Such lovely ripe nutty tannins of serious depth. The core of fruit is exceptional and long. Mouth filling, I so want to see a bottle
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
$213ea in any 3+
$206ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Monvigliero' 2016
The Playful!
Very recognisable again; the graphite and generous almost smoky black cherry/prune announces a Monvigliero. This is both expressive now, yet clearly very classy. Superb, the flint, the slate, the dark sour cherries, such length. Incredible wine. A hint of macerative, grape marc character, again energy, vibrancy. Nice florals. Tannins that almost remind me of a little whole bunch will resolve. Should be a fun evolution for this one. This has a wonderful personality.Very recognisable again; th
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
Giovanni Sordo Barolo 'Ravera' 2016
The Playful!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. A wonderful example. Crunchy red fruits with the energy of 2016, there’s the overlying perfume and incredible length just goes for every. The sophistication of the front mid-palate tannin is there. The refreshing balanced acidity. Playful yet leveling up to serious. A lythe yet present flavour profile.Aha - this red cherry and brick-dust opening is be
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+

Marcarini Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+
The 2017 Barolo Mosconi is a powerful, brooding wine. Black cherry, gravel, dried herbs, scorched earth, spice and leather add to an impression of gravitas. This is an especially somber, potent Barolo that needs time to soften. Even so, it will always be a brute. The substantial finish is a thing of beauty. The Barolo Mosconi emerges from the estates oldest vines, which are 70-80 years old, and is aged in barrique.Galloni
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+

Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

What a wine! So complete, incredible, layered complex, beautifully perfumed with the earth, slate and undergrowth to balance it. The very definition of a complete Barolo. The acid tannin complex is impeccable. The core and length of fruit is divine. Simply so much going on. Savoury, dark, brooding this will be a special wine with time in bottle. A lacing of the finest black tea supporting exceptional tannins. There are not enough superlatives.Paul Kaan, Wine DecodedThe organic G.D. V
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+

Vajra Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

UPDATE: Here's the double cross ... This is Ravera di Novello. I interviewed Eugene Qiao of Vajra and we laughed about the same thing. I forgot to amend the note. The triple cross is that Eugene informed me that the particular part of Ravera in Novella where their holding are has different soils that are much closer to the Ravera in Monforte than in Novello. I was making my note based on the structure looking a little more like Monforte!On the back of drinking all the 2021 Clerico's from
$228
$218ea in any 3+
$208ea in any 6+

Luigi Baudana Barolo ‘Baudana’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Nebbiolo, Barolo, Serralunga, Baudana = Enough Said! The 2021 Barolo Baudana is another super-sensual wine from the estate. Silky tannins wrap around a core of red cherry/red plum fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and flowers. A wine with striking inner perfume, the 2021 is captivating from start to finish.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 95 Points 95 ML
$229
$219ea in any 3+
$209ea in any 6+