Piedmont

Barolo

Home to the Wine of Kings and the King of Wine, Barolo has a history dating back to the 1400’s. Until the early 1900’s the wines of the region were largely sweet reds.

A Guide to the Barolo Region, Piedmont, Italy & its Wines.

Over the last 50-70 years, their vineyards have been well defined and categorised, the push to single vineyard, single variety wines completed. Like Burgundy a new generation has tried all of the new techniques and now finds comfort with making wines of purity over such as heavy handed extraction and new oak use. Their success and the money it has brought has allowed the investment of time into vineyards and practical technologies like sorting tables and temperature controlled fermenters in the wineries.

While wine lovers from around the world focus on the great Barolos made from Nebbiolo, it is Barbera, and Dolcetto that are the Italian daily drink, the cerebral Barolo saved for special occasions.

Founding Figures

The founding figures of Barolo come in several waves. The old school the shifted us from sweet reds to the ballsy dry wines of today, the Barolo Boys and the modernists who introduced more science and technology, the next generation that are finding the balance, managing climate change, pushing wines of consistency, purity, and expression of fruit over artefact.

On balance the wines are more refined and sophisticated, careful management of tannins with fruit sorting, careful destemming, handling of skins during fermentation, and, gentle pressing building more supple texture over the block busters from previous generations.

Area Planted

Barolo is a small region roughly 10km wide by 15km long. Apart from the village centers it is almost fully planted to vines.

The Communes

It was only by around 2017 that the work to define & classify Barolo’s vineyards was completed. The detailed work is only paralleled by the definition given to the vineyards of Burgundy. Like any body of work that has a financial impact disputes of who was in and who was out have been common. Defining Cru of Cannubi almost caused a war!

Barolo is made up of 11 Communes 5 of which have been the backbone of region over the last few decades. In no particular order they are La Morra, Barolo (the sub-region of the same name as the region .. I know!), Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, and, Monforte d’Alba.

We’ve begun to explore these with the article in the Wine Bites Mag “Getting Your Head Around Barolo “The 8 Cru’s of Giovanni Sordo””. Will be exploring the Communes in more detail over time. Check in on all our articles about Barolo for the next installment!

The other 6 Communes are Verduno, home to the Monvigliero Cru, Rodi, Grinzane Cavour, Diano D’Alba, Cherasco, and, Novello.

Most Common Varieties

Beyond the traditional varieties winemakers are playing with small amounts of Riesling, Chardonnay, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Varieties and Syrah.

White

Nascetta, native to the Commune of Novello in Barolo is making a comeback. You won’t see Nascetta listed in too many wine resources, yet, there is a dedicated group of Piemontese looking to revive this delicious white grape, think Cogno & Rivetto. Like most regions of the world we see experimentation with non-traditional varieties too.

Red

The big 3 are Barbera (31%) the most widely planted grape in the region and for good reason, Nebbiolo (10%), Dolcetto (13%). Lesser known include Freisia and Pelaverga.


2021 Marcarini & Poderi Colla 6-Packs


Marcarini Barolo ‘La Serra’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A very strong La Serra from Marcarini. Oppulent, generous, shows off the Commune of La Morra in full flight! Savoury, with a drip of salty blood over red fruit and blood orange. Flowing, plush, round & fine. Delicious. The best La Serra in years. Beautiful development. Ripe, fine tannins. A long, long finish. Incredibly moreish even at this youthful point in its life! Will make for a lovely comparison with Sordo’s 2021 La Serra.Paul Kaan, WINE DECODED Sept 2025The 2021 Barolo
$175
$168ea in any 3+
$161ea in any 6+
The single best Dardi Le Rose I've seen from Poderi Colla. Serious wine, yet, with a playful side. Excellent tannins, depth and length. A dark note melds into red fruits. Fresh, energetic & layered.  Structured Monforte Tannins with a beautifully weighted presence.Lovely perfume. Earthy, forest floor, with a dash of licorice/tar + so much more going on already! A few years in bottle will see it through the first phase of development and into a very happy place. Plenty of legs on it and
$189
$182ea in any 3+
$175ea in any 6+

A Splash from the Cellars!

Poderi Colla Barbaresco ‘Roncaglie’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

The Hit List from 2019 Barbaresco is Insane! Now this from one of Piedmont's God Fathers! The three Crus Roncaglie, Roncagliette and Roncaglini make superb wines. Colla's 2019 Roncaglie re-enforcing the reputation! Yes, it is still tight, yet straight out of the gate it is clear something special is going on. Put it this way, I just trippled my order!Stunning perfume, layered in savoury & slate notes over a core of red fruit with darkness at the edge. Mouthfeel is incredibly important wi
$180
$173ea in any 3+
$166ea in any 6+

Marcarini Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of
$220
$210ea in any 3+
$200ea in any 6+

Filters & Sorting

Borgogno Barolo ‘Fossati’ DOCG 2016

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Underbrush, wild berry, rose and camphor aromas form the enticing nose along with a whiff of forest floor. The youthfully austere, savory palate delivers ripe red cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and botanical herb framed in firm, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it balanced. This stunner is definitely one for the cellar. Drink 2026–2041.Kerin O’Keefe, The Wine Enthusiast
$201
$191ea in any 3+
$181ea in any 6+

Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Bussia is huge MGA. Giacomo Fenocchio's parcel comes from a peninsular at the top of the Commune sitting between Barolo & Castiglione Falletto. It's large enough to be split into 5-6 different fermentations. All very different from each other in personality. Fenocchio's beautiful Bussia a demonstration of the massive differences in style across Monforte. Often very structured, demanding patiences, Claudio's sites and wine making offer an elegant wine. It has some a degree of immediate genero
$202
$192ea in any 3+
$182ea in any 6+

Cavallotto Barolo ‘Bricco Boschis’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Focused, pure, without interference of oak, complex, considered élévage. Wine of great expression and vibrancy. “The 2017 Barolo Bricco Boschis is superb. A rush of crushed raspberry, rose petals, mint, sweet spice and blood orange gives the 2017 its effusive, sexy personality. Medium in body and exceptionally polished, the 2017 is an absolute jewel of a wine. Many 2017s are nervy and in need of time to soften, but not the Bricco Boschis. All the elements are so well-balanced. If I was going
$205
$195ea in any 3+
$185ea in any 6+

Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti). ‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’. The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dried he
$207
$200ea in any 3+
$193ea in any 6+
The 2021 Barolo Paiagallo is a sensual beauty. Silky, aromatic and impeccably polished, the 2021 is a total knockout. It's a great example of what Barolo is today, a wine that can be enjoyed on release and not a tannic behemoth, like those of the past. Floral and spice overtones meld into a core of red and purplish-hued fruits. Elegant and light on its feet, the 2021 is a total delight.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 PointsWines like these are so rare that it is impossible to try them bef
$208
$198ea in any 3+
$188ea in any 6+
A component that was previously blended into the Barolo del Barolo. A beautiful perfume lifts from the glass. An extra pop of perceived acidity makes for tannins with a playful edge to the mid-palate adding pleasure. Truffles, earthiness, darkness, with energy. Of the first three Barolos this will need more time to resolve. Serious gear. Winemaker’s hat on I can see why they separated. It will clearly give so much more with a few years in bottle.A presence yet sophistication of perfume a
$209
$199ea in any 3+
$189ea in any 6+
Fenocchio's Castellero comes from a cooler site east facing site. With similar soils to Cannubi. Darker fruited than Cannubi. Ripe, layered, nutty tannins, with an elegant, composed wine with a dark edge, lovely acidity support perfectly weighted core of fruit with a balanced richness. Claudio's preference is to harvest on the earlier side, whilst making sure the tannins are suitably ripe for the vintage. It shows here in the energey of fine texture of the wine.Tasting this alongside a 2019
$209
$199ea in any 3+
$189ea in any 6+

Cogno Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

"These vineyards represent the classic side of our production. They make elegant, smooth, and fresh wines with a fine aroma." Valter Fissore "The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a beautiful, precise wine. Bright acids and veins of tannin give the 2017 terrific energy that carries all the way through to the finish. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, white pepper and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. This is very nicely done."Antonio Galloni, Vinous
$212
$202ea in any 3+
$192ea in any 6+

E. Pira (Chiara Boschis) Barolo ‘Via Nuova’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

This one's an argument for blending sites! The 2017 Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of seven plots from Barolo, Monforte & Serralunga! This one’s an argument for blending sites! The 2018 Barolo Via Nuova is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba).2018 is restrained in feel, but all the elements are so well balanced. Freshly cut flowers, mint, crushed ro
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+

Vajra Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The G.D. Vajra 2020 Barolo Ravera reveals wild forest berry, cherry, licorice root and sweet summer fruit. The effect is focused or chiseled thanks to animating acidity and pinpoint fruit flavors. Located in the village of Novello, Ravera benefits from open panoramas and cooler temperatures from the mountains. These factors make this cru one of the most promising in this era of climate change. This is a Barolo for the purists. Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate 96 Points AG 94+
$218
$211ea in any 3+
$204ea in any 6+

Vajra Barolo ‘Bricco delle Viole’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

The 2020 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, Vajra's flagship, is very fine. Dark cherry, kirsch, blood orange, spice and lavender are nicely amplified. The 2020 is gracious and elegant, but its youthful Nebbiolo tannins will require some time to soften. The 2020 is another wine that captures my keen interests with its sublime balance. I would be thrilled to own it.Antonio Galloni, Vinous 96 Points ML 95
$218
$211ea in any 3+
$204ea in any 6+

Ca’ di Press Barolo ‘Perno’ 2021

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

A density with a serious core of vibrant fruit lined by a  dark edge and truffles. Graphite, tar, tabacco. A lacing of fine perfume.  Serious presence here. More immediate generosity and playfulness than many Monforte’s. Purity with personality. Complete and harmonious. Optimised for the year. Fine acid. Beautifully handled proper Nebbiolo tannins that are refined at this youthful age for a Monforte. Grip of quality. Sensual, long and flowing finish. A special wine with plenty more to come.
$218
$208ea in any 3+
$198ea in any 6+