Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Feeling Thirsty?

Nebbiolo from Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Giovanni Sordo Barolo ‘Gabutti’ MAGNUM 2019

A wonderful expression of Serralunga, all of the tea, slate, graphite, exceptional quality tannins, with a presence and sophistication. The firm mouthfeel of seriously good Serralunga tannins. Again such a complete wine. The nose draws you in. Begging you to drink. A darkness and energy that is palpable.Impressive gear. Precise, and pure, wearing the vineyard and commune on its sleeve. Superb fruit of depth and length. Great drinking here with much much more to come.

Vintage 2019 Magnum 1.5L
$330
$320ea in any 3+
$310ea in any 6+
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Red Blend from Haro, La Rioja

La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 2011

As only the second vintage of 890 I've tried I was immediately struck by the contrast the 2011 has compared with the 2010. Share a glass with the importer, he remarked that the 2011 is a more typical vintage for the 890. While 2010 presented with a richness and generosity, the 2011 has the hallmarks of a great Claret. Vibrant fruit with a subtle underlying lacing of oak, building in the glass, fruit slowly shining through. A fine line of acid adds to the impression of delicacy and restraint. Low

Vintage 2010
$575
$555ea in any 3+
$535ea in any 6+
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Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino JEROBOAM 3L 2021
Jero #01 Signed by Lorenzo!

Sangiovese from Montalcino, Tuscany

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino JEROBOAM 3L 2021

The Le Chiuse 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely wine and one of my favorites from a vintage that is not always easy to read. It delivers its message clearly with dark fruit, blue flower, grilled herb and sweet cedar, showing a sense of fullness and aromatic completeness that is not always present in this year. Soft and silky on the palate, the wine offers gentle, powdery tannins supported by good underlying structure, achieving balance without force. Sourced as a special selection from eig

Vintage 2021 Jeroboam 3L

Riesling from Mosel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Auslese #11 HALF 2019

Initially reductive notes of smoke and aniseed herbs, then pear, honeyed yellow peach, spices, fresh herbs, violet and bergamot join the party. Develops gorgeous playful sweetness on the light-footed and delicately zesty palate, and leaves gorgeously direct flavours of fruit basket and candied grapefruit in the finish. This joyful and fruit-driven auslese will be irresistible at maturity. Mosel Fine Wines 95 Points

Vintage 2019 375ml
$117
$112ea in any 3+
$107ea in any 6+