Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée [AOC]


In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine!

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In France, the appellation d’origine contrôlée (“controlled designation of origin”), or AOC, is a certification of authenticity and quality granted to certain geographical indications for agricultural products, including cheese, meats, butter and most importantly, wine. It is a system governed by the Institut national de l’origine et de la qualité (INAO), and is based upon ideas of terroir and a form of geographic and cultural protection.

France established the INAO in 1935 in an effort to control the reputation of wine and other cultural foods. Support for the creation of the AOC itself was in large part due to winemaker Baron Pierre Le Roy, which led to the first designated AOC: Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

By 1937, the establishment of the AOC for classic winemaking regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne took place, setting about standards and rules that are still in effect today. For example, AOC laws ensure that if you buy a bottle of French wine labelled “Champagne,” you’re getting a sparkling wine made in the traditional method from the region of Champagne with Chardonnay, Meunier, and/or Pinot Noir.

There are currently over 300 French wines entitled to the designation AOC on their label, along with several potential designations within an AOC that reflect location and quality. For example:

  • Regional: This refers to the broadest sense of an AOC. Examples: Bordeaux, Burgundy.
  • Sub-Regional: Within those regions are smaller subregions known for more specific wine or terroir. Examples: Bordeaux’s Médoc sub-region, Burgundy’s Chablis sub-region.
  • Commune/Village: Narrowing further within a subregion, these areas are sometimes only a few miles in scope. Examples: Pauillac in Médoc, Côtes d’Auxerre in Chablis.
  • Special Classification: An AOC might be further specified for quality at this point, indicating a Cru, which refers to a specific vineyard or group of vineyards typically recognized for quality.

Similar systems exist in other European countires, such as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata in Italy.

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Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2017
A Masterpiece!

Nebbiolo from Castiglione Falletto, Barolo

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2017

A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, & 40% Serralunga’s Baudana & Broglio. Aged in new 75-85HL Gamba botti for 26 months. "Rose, ripe berry, menthol and sunbaked earth aromas come to the forefront. On the full-bodied palate, enveloping, seasoned tannins accompany dried black cherry, star anise and tobacco. Drink 2024–2029."Kerin O'Keefe

Vintage 2017
$176
$169ea in any 3+
$162ea in any 6+

Riesling from Mosel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Selbach Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett 2019

"The 2019 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett is pure and flinty on the pure, elegant, terroir-driven nose. Piquant and crystalline on the palate, this is a crunchy and crispy, well-concentrated and nicely phenolic Schlossberg with juicy fruit but a crystalline and refined finish. Very long and stimulatingly salty."Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advcoate

Vintage 2019
$63
$60ea in any 3+
$57ea in any 6+

Nebbiolo from Novello, Barolo

Cogno Barolo ‘Ravera’ 2017

"These vineyards represent the classic side of our production. They make elegant, smooth, and fresh wines with a fine aroma." Valter Fissore "The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a beautiful, precise wine. Bright acids and veins of tannin give the 2017 terrific energy that carries all the way through to the finish. Crushed flowers, sweet red berry fruit, chalk, white pepper and spice all open with a bit of coaxing. This is very nicely done."Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Vintage 2017
$212
$202ea in any 3+
$192ea in any 6+

Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits

Domaine Trapet Père et Fils Bourgogne Rouge 2022

Sourced from vineyards immediately next to the Gevrey-Champertin AOCUltra-fresh aromas of red pinot fruit, spice and more discreet earth nuances lead to equally delicious and more finely textured middleweight flavors that possess notably better volume on the better balanced and sneaky long finish. This is quite good for what it is and worth checking out.Allen Meadows, Burghound 87 PointsThe 2022 Bourgogne Rouge delivers notes of cherries, plums, smoke and loamy soil, fol

Vintage 2022
$102
$97ea in any 3+
$92ea in any 6+
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