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In Australia we tend to end a meal with them. In other parts of the world they start with them! Think the delicious fortifieds of Banyul’s in Southern France, or, the Sauternes and Barsacs of Bordeaux.
You’ll find styles that made from grapes that are left to hang on the vines, concentrating their sugars, often under the influence of botrytis AKA ‘noble rot’, like Sauternes and Tokaji from hungary. Following fermentation they are left with considerable residual sugars.
You’ll often see the name ‘Late Picked’ or ‘Late harvest on the labels of these wines.
Then you’ll find fortified wines both dry and sweet like Port, Sherry, and Maderia where 75-98% ethanol spirit is added to increase the alcohol levels and in some cases stop the fermentation leaving the desired amount of sugar in the wine.
Fortifieds make some of the most unique Australian wines.
Rutherglen in Victoria is home to exceptional fortified wines that undergo long barrel ageing, including:
Topaque also known as Muscadelle after the grape variety they are made from (previously named Tokay with the name changed to meet EU naming laws).
Muscat named after the grape from which it is made also goes by the names: Moscato Bianco, Moscatel, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Muscat of Alexandria and White Frontignac.
All of these are just the tip of the iceberg … which reminds me there’s Ice Wine too, made in very cool climates by letting grapes freeze on the vines pressing them to extract the concentrated juice leaving the frozen water behind! I feel for the pickers harvesting those grapes!
Showing of wines
Riesling from Mosel, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Barrel Selection "AP: 15 21. The 2020er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** - 24 - was made from 40% botrytized fruit picked at 115° Oechsle and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (120 g/l). It offers a still rather backward nose made of smoky elements and only faint scents of melon, pineapple, apricot, and herbs. The wine is hugely racy and beautifully focused on the palate and leaves a mouthwatering feel of herbs, faint flavors of subtly exotic fruits, and spices in
White Blend from Gaiole UGA, Chianti Classico
Production of this wine is a painstaking labor of love. If they made a white out of the grapes it would return 10 times the volume! Makes the price look pretty reasonable.The organic San Giusto a Rentennano 2015 Vin San Giusto (in a 375-milliliter bottle) opens to a dark chestnut color with brownish and copper highlights. This wine is viscous and quite thick with a contained 9.5% alcohol content. That low alcohol is a hallmark of this special dessert wine, as is its super rich, almost sy
Chenin Blanc from Vouvray, Touraine
77 g/L. This sports a flamboyant edge, with apple crumble, ginger cream, quince paste, green tea and honeysuckle notes forming a wide panoply of aromas and flavors, while sweet and racy accents contrast, creating a lengthy finish where everything hangs in harmony. A stunning show of fruit and precision.James Molesworth, Wine Spectator 97 Points
White Blend from Gaiole UGA, Chianti Classico
Production of this wine is a painstaking labor of love. If they made a white out of the grapes it would return 10 times the volume! Makes the price look pretty reasonable.The organic San Giusto a Rentennano 2016 Vin San Giusto (in a 375-milliliter bottle) is a viscous and glycerin-rich dessert wine with dried fruit, chewy caramel, white raisin and a hint of chocolate or toasted coffee bean. The wine is very rich on the palate, sitting heavy on the senses to the end. I also get a curious
Chenin Blanc from Vouvray, Touraine
The intensely yellow colored 2020 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie is highly concentrated and complex on the nose that exhibits candied lemon zest and chutney aromas along with calcareous and walnut notes. Sweet (really sweet!) yet refined and elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich and generous yet piquant and firmly structured, greatly tensioned and salty 1ère Trie with pineapple flavors on the finely tannic and energetic, very sustainable finish. The 2020 has great aging po
As always this 100% single-quinta wine is drawn from Noval’s own vines. There are three core parcels, all near the winery—the terraces directly surrounding the winery in Pinhão, the vines in the Roncão Valley and a parcel overlooking the Douro River.“The finish is long and jam-packed with delicious fruit, while the purity of that fruit is remarkable. Between its backbone and the freshness of the year, it should age well. Few will refuse a second glass of this debonair Porto at the
Semillon Gris from Swartland, South Africa
The 2024 Kokerboom is a blend of Sémillon Blanc and Gris. Mellow on the nose, this is the most timid of Sadie's '24s at the moment, with very light wet wool and earthy aromas. The palate is very spicy on the entry, with a touch of ginger, linear and minimalist for Sémillon, with a bright, sapid, slightly fiery finish. Very fine.Neal Martin, Vinous 92 Points
As always this 100% single-quinta wine is drawn from Noval’s own vines. There are three core parcels, all near the winery—the terraces directly surrounding the winery in Pinhão, the vines in the Roncão Valley and a parcel overlooking the Douro River. Each year, the blending proportions for the Vintage Port will vary depending on the vagaries of the vineyard."This is well defined on the nose, with dusky black fruit laced with graphite and clove [and] hints of liquorice, eucalyptus
Pedro Ximénez from Montilla-Moriles, Anadlucía
17% ABV. “The 1980 Don PX Selección is said to come from a warm and dry year that favored the raisining of the Pedro Ximénez grapes. This has lots of candied fruit and spice and combines the 17% alcohol with a whopping 340 grams of residual sugar. This aged in American oak butts until its bottling in September 2018. It surprised me with a complex and somewhat savory nose, reminiscent of bitter chocolate, licorice and roasted coffee, carob beans and black pepper. It's super concentrated, dens
Pedro Ximénez from Montilla-Moriles, Anadlucía
“The oldest, most concentrated, nuanced and serious from the range of single-harvest sweet wines I tasted this time was the 1943 Don PX Ginés Liébana, which comes from six butts that had been aging in the cellars without being blended. It has 15% alcohol and a whopping 440 grams of sugar, but the truth is, it doesn't come through as that sweet. It's super concentrated, layered and complex, thick and dense, like honey. This is the more serious and canonical, dare I say it, closer to the Jerez
Pedro Ximénez from Montilla-Moriles, Anadlucía
“The 1956 Don PX Convento Selección has a smoky note of coal, bitter chocolate and licorice and, with time, becomes creamier, with echoes of milk chocolate and café au lait, with a clearly lactic/creamy note. It has 16.5% alcohol and 390 grams of sugar. It's thick and dense, complex, with flavors of licorice, powder cocoa, hot chocolate and dark raisins. Apparently, the barrels were never moved from the same, cooler part of their cellars where the wine matured for over 65 years. This is eleg
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