Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis ‘Vigna San Giuseppe’ 2012

Why is this Wine so Yummy?

A couple of years ago we had a Barolo Magnum festa. There were some seriously big names amongst the mix. The top 3 wines in no particular order 1999 Bartolo Mascarello, 1999 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia, and, 2001 Cavallotto ‘Bricco Boschis’ Riserva made from the ‘Vigna San Giuseppe’ parcel within Cavallotto’s Monopole ‘Bricco Boschis’.

At the celebration dinner for one of my Italian wine groups, we hoovered a 2010 Bricco Boschis ‘Vigna San Giuseppe’, again it was at the top of the list with Guiseppe Mascarello, Conterno, and, Giacosa on the table.

That is some serious company to play with.

From the Importer: The fruit for the Barolo Riserva San Giuseppe derives from the small ‘sub terroir’ of the Bricco Boschis known as Vigna San Giuseppe. Rising steeply behind the family’s dwelling and cantina, this 2.45 hectare block has long been considered an ‘x-factor’ site that consistently delivers one of the greatest Barolos of the region. Just as in Burgundy, where the grand crus occupy the mid-slope of the Côte, so it is with the Vigna San Giuseppe vines in the Bricco Boschis. Here you get the best of everything: altitude, but not too high, excellent drainage, but enough water retention thanks to the limestone so that the vines don’t stress in dry conditions, and a complex mixture of soils, including blue tinted clays (power), limestone (freshness and mineral drive) and sand (prettiness and perfume). Add to this, mature vines, old clonal material and a south-west exposure, and the stars are aligned to produce greatness. Reflecting the power of the fruit grown here, the Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva sees a longer maceration than the standard cru and matures for four-plus years in large oak casks, and then one year in bottle. This is simply the finest Bricco Boschis we have shipped. Alfio Cavallotto thinks it is similar to the great 1998 and I think it may be the finest example since the mythic 1999 (one of the greatest Barolos I have drunk). Expect a terrific, old school Barolo, loaded with sweet/savoury, fleshy fruit and then pithy, chalky tannins. Super youthful but there is already some meaty, mushroom complexity flecked through the primary, plummy fruit. The finish is long and driven and structured. Needs time to blossom but greatness is guaranteed.

When you unearth the history of Cavallotto, all the elements are there, great sites, high planting density, balanced healthy vineyards with moderate crops, now farmed organically.

Two additional elements take their wines to the next level, vine age, continuity of farmers with the retention of wisdom it offers! This is, and, has always been a family business, knowledge built on, and, passed from generation to generation.

Common threads run through Cavallotto’s wines, from their Dolcetto, to their Barbera, and, Nebbiolo’s, Langhe, Barolo Bricco Boschis, and, Barolo Riserva from Vigna San Guiseppe and Vigna Vignolo.

They are focused on purity of fruit, without the interference of oak, complexity, and, are one of the best examples off carefully considered élévage on the market. All of this results in wines of great expression and vibrancy.

Cavallotto’s wines clearly sit on the classic, traditional, Barolo side of the ledger.

Cavallotto’s Wine Making

As you’d expect from wines made in a more classical style, there’s longer maceration, time on skins, which often softens tannins, and, layers in complexity, think perfume and truffles. Oak is old and large Botte 2,000-10,000L in volume. Not only do these keep the wine fresher during maturation, but, impart no oak tannins, aroma or flavour. Maturation is longer, than, many in both Botte and then bottle, the very reason you’re just seeing the 2012 Barolo now when many have released 2013’s.

They make such beautiful, expressive wines!

Where in the World do Cavallotto’s wines come from?

Cavallotto is yet another example of knowing your producers, and, their vineyards. In the heart of Castiglione Falletto, Cavallotto holds the monopole (single owner) vineyard Bricco Boschis, only a stones through away from another famed Barolo monopole, Monprivato. Although I don’t like comparing the two, Monprivato, produces some of the most Burgundian, Nebbiolo I’ve ever had.

You can see the Barbera in the light green on the map is planted on the ‘Bricco Boschis’, it’s just going to be good. Just like Vietti’s Langhe Nebbiolo, Cavallotto’s is sourced from vineyards that are effectively declassified Barolo vineyard.

Surrounding the Bricco Boschis, within 500m are the remainder of their holdings. Including the Vigna Vignolo, consistently the source of their Riserva.

All the vines have serious age, with Dolcetto planting near 40 years old, Barbera 55 years, and, Nebbiolo 45 to 55 years old.