Tasting through the wines, they have a rustic nature to them, the tannins are mouth coating, often dusty and chalky. Yet, they’re balanced with a purity and brightness of fruit. There is a faint layer of oak in the Barbera from the new large Stockinger botti refreshing the old botti that have seen decades of use. It sits in balance. Isabella Oddero describes it as neutral and elegant.
The wines demand patience. Drink the DOCG Barolo and Cru’s over 2 or 3 days when young. I write this with a large glass of 2016 Barbaresco ‘Gallina’ in hand. It’s been open for 3 days now and is drinking the best it’s drunk. The tannins have softened a little, harmonising with the fruit. The wine has resolved to reveal a balance, beauty and perfume that sat shy on first opening.
These are superb wines of purity, character and energy. They represent an interpretation of Nebbiolo that requires patience and with it will reward you with bags of personality
– Paul Kaan, Wine Decoded
Today we offer a subset of their wines with the 2017 Langhe Neb, 2016 Barbaresco ‘Gallina’, 2015 Barolo, 2015 Barolo ‘Villero’, and, 2015 Barolo ‘Brunate’. Yet to come are Serralunga’s Jewel, Vigna Rionda, Bussia, Brunate and Monvigliero!
We couldn’t resist offering a Villero twin pack with Sordo’s Villero too! Such a great comparison, same vineyard, two very different interpretations.
Of the wines I’ve had recently the remind me most of Barale’s Barbaresco ‘Serraboella’.
Readers who enjoy fine, classically built wines will want to check out Oddero. Bravo!
– Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Exploring Tannin Profiles
This is a great opportunity to explore tannin and mouthfeel. Two options here.
- Across the Barbaresco Gallina, Barolo and Langhe Neb there are distinct textures and tannin profiles. If you want to get your head around rustic Neb tannins this would be a cracking way to do it. The Gallina has great line and length of tannin that are the finest and most sophisticated of the 3 wines. The Barolo tannins are firmer and broader in the front to middle palate, not the line and length of the Gallina, the Langhe are chalky and dusty coating your entire mouth. Make sure you look at them over a few days when young. The tannins will soften and harmonise.
- Across the Villero twin-pack you’ll see superfine, almost Burgundian tannins, and, the Oddero bolder and a little more edgy in a good way. Again important to look at them over time.
In Australia, we have wineries that have been around for 150 years. In Germany 4-500 years. Oddero sit in the middle with around a 300 year history.
If only those vines could talk. Now with 35 ha of vines across Barolo and the Gallina Cru in Barbaresco the estate continues to evolve with thoughtful intent.
Like many of the best estates in Piedmonte the attention to detail in the vineyard has lifted a notch or 3 and practices are now organic. I’d love to try their honey and hazelnuts. Italian honey is the bomb!
The film below is in Italian, seriously, just soak it up!
The podcast from Levi Dalton with Isabella Oddero from 2009 and one with Giacomo Oddero that just dropped is well worth a listen.
In the Vineyard
Since 2008 Luigi Oddero’s vineyards have been certified organic. Work has been underway to improve, soils, trellising and spend more time in the vineyard. Adding reduced yields the focus is clearly on lifting quality! I haven’t seen many older Oddero’s, today’s range have personality to burn.
In the Winery
The Langhe Neb sees a short ferment and maturation in Stainless steel.
The DOCG level Neb’s stay on skins for around 20-28 days in Tine (large vertical wooden barrels).
Stockinger Botti from Austria have been gradually introduced to replace the large old botti. Custom sizes have been bought, just 1 for each vineyard! Isabella describes the wood as being very neutral and austere.
I suspect the Barbera, that handle oak better than Neb, has been used for the first fill to ‘wash’ them of oak flavours and tannins before the Nebbiolo takes its turn. The quality and level of oak in the Barbera is nicely done.
Whatever the technique, the results in the glass are impressive!
The 2017 – 2016 – 2015 Vintages for Oddero
We’ve covered the basics about 2015 & 2016 so many times it’s a mute point now. 2015 warm, best wines are excellent. 2016 superb.
What about 2017. Again a warmer year. A year Luca Carrudo of Vietti called excellent for Barbera. Whatever the reality of the weather the reality in the glass for Oddero’s 2017 Langhe Neb is one with a lovely perfume, solid core of fruit, a bag full of edgy tannin that demands food or time, a fun drink and great value.
Where in the World is Oddero?
Based in La Morra, Oddero’s 35ha are spread across Barolo, Barbaresco and Asti. Currently released Cru’s are Vigna Rionda (Serralunga), Rocche di Castiglione (Castiglione Falletto), Brunate (La Morra), Villero (Castiglione Falletto), Bussia Vigna Mondoca (Monforte) Bricco Fiasco – currently blended in into the Barolo Normale.
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