Winery

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Ghislaine Barthod’s wines balance the natural elegance of Chambolle with sensual depth, structure and longevity. Many, if not all the wines at this address manage to blur the hierarchy.

About Domaine Ghislaine Barthod

Ghislaine Barthod’s domaine originates back to the 1920s when it was owned by Marcel Noëllat. His daughter married Gaston Barthod, a soldier stationed in Dijon who visited the winery to buy some wine and consequently fell in love with the girl who sold it to him.

Gaston gave up military life for a new life amongst the vineyards in 1960. His daughter, Ghislaine, and her partner Louis Boillot bought their current premises overlooking Premier Cru Les Feusselottes in 1986. Though they share the team who work the vineyards for both, the vinification and commercial aspects of each business is kept completely separate. Ghislaine’s father Gaston died in 1999, yet effectively Ghislaine had been making his wine for a decade prior to his passing.

Since 1999, the high quality produced by Ghislaine Barthod has ensured a powerful following amongst Burgundy enthusiasts in the know. The style is unashamedly intense, with both the perfume and sensuality that has made Chambolle such an iconic commune but also the density and structure to age (an attribute that Ghislaine strives for).

Ghislaine Barthod’s wines balance the natural elegance of Chambolle with sensual depth, structure and longevity. Many, if not all the wines at this address manage to blur the hierarchy.

The overall effect of tasting at the domaine is to come away with a palate coated in sensual Chambolle fruit. Ghislaine Barthod’s wines are always supremely elegant and harmonious and display admirable concentration and length. The best examples can age gracefully for up to 20 years.

Anyone who doubts the reality of terroir need only taste their way through the range of Ghislaine Barthod wines each year to be converted. While the Domaine is small with just under six hectares of vineyards (one of the reasons it flies under the radar) it includes a remarkable nine Chambolle-Musigny Premier Crus. These are all made exactly the same way, and yet, they all have very different personalities from each other: personalities that express themselves year in and year out, irrespective of the climatic conditions. That said, these Burgundies are not simply subjects for terroir voyeurism—they are just far too delicious for that. To quote Terry Theise, “…that would be like ignoring the rainbow so you can balance your chequebook.”

Ghislaine’s son, Clément Boillot is now heavily involved in the running of the Domaine, along with his father’s Domaine Louis Boillot and their operations in Beaujolais, Louis Boillot-Barthod. They say the apple never falls far from the tree, and from what we have seen—even by this Domaine’s lofty standards—the quality of Clément’s first releases has been astonishing. In the cellar, Clément is running trials with amphora and foudre and is in the early stages of introducing biodynamic viticulture. We know from discussions with Clément (and from what his mother has told us about him) that he is likely to be a wonderful manager of this Domaine in the future. He has the drive of the true vigneron: emphasising the vineyard over the cellar. What a legacy he is inheriting!

I have now tasted more wines from Clement, and it seems like there are two tendencies. Firstly, the style has been lightened a bit … not much … but enough to increase the delicacy and the transparency of the wines. In times of increasing global warming its always welcome to make lighter and more transparent wine.

The second tendency is that the Boillot wines are slowly but surely getting integrated into Clement’s style of wine, hence also the Ghislaine Barthod style. Actually, there is not really a big difference anymore… and I think it’s safe to say you should consider to buy some Louis Boillot wines also …

Winehog

In the Vineyard

The estate is made up of just under 6 hectares (15 acres) of vineyards. Over half of this is split between eight well-sited plots in Chambolle-Musigny premier cru vineyards, with the remaining land in Villages-level and AOC Bourgogne parcels.

In the Winery

Restricted crop and meticulous attention to élevage are the ‘simple’ keys to Ghislaine’s success. Her straightforward, no-nonsense approach helped introduce a sorting table to discard any grapes that were not up to scratch. Along with this; a gentle cool pre-maceration before fermentation is used to extract all the fruit’s freshness and flavours; only natural yeasts are used; the grapes are destemmed, allowed a brief cool soak before being fermented naturally in open-top wooden cuvees with more punching down than pumping over. The wines are then matured in barriques (roughly a quarter of which are new). The wines are usually bottled after 18 months, after one racking.

Where in the World is Domaine Ghislaine Barthod?

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod is based in Chambolle-Musigny, Côte-de-Nuits, Burgundy, France

Filters & Sorting

Barthod’s Bourgogne Blanc, made from Chardonnay planted in the late 2010s. It was the estate’s first commercial white wine (they previously produced only tiny, family-use whites from old Pinot Beurot and Chardonnay vines). The Les Graviers vineyard, named for its stony soils and located near Les Bon Batons, on the edge of Chambolle, saw its first release from the 2020 vintage, with élevage set at 50% used 500-litre oak and 50% terracotta amphora. The 2023 is delicious: both fleshy and racy
$111
$106ea in any 3+
$101ea in any 6+
Barthod’s Bourgogne Blanc, made from Chardonnay planted in the late 2010s. It was the estate’s first commercial white wine (they previously produced only tiny, family-use whites from old Pinot Beurot and Chardonnay vines). The Les Graviers vineyard, named for its stony soils and located near Les Bon Batons, on the edge of Chambolle, saw its first release from the 2020 vintage, with élevage set at 50% used 500-litre oak and 50% terracotta amphora. The 2023 is delicious: both fleshy and racy
$111
$106ea in any 3+
$101ea in any 6+
The super-fresh essence of various red berries laced with a touch of just turned earth precedes sleek and utterly delicious medium weight flavors that flash surprisingly good power on the youthfully austere and crunchy finale. This is an excellent example of the genre and worth your interest.Allen Meadows, Burghound 87-89 PointsAs always, the fruit comes from a 1.5-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the renowned Les Bon Bâtons vineyard (on the edge of Chambolle). It’s a v
$118
$113ea in any 3+
$108ea in any 6+
Ripe aromas include those of red and dark raspberry that are trimmed in discreet earth nuances. The racy, intense and well-detailed middle weight flavors conclude in an unusually robust, powerful and firm finale. This concentrated and excellent effort is definitely not a 'pop and pour' Bourgogne. ♥ Outstanding Top valueAllen Meadows, Burghound 87-89 PointsAs always, the fruit comes from a 1.5-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the renowned Les Bon Bâtons vineyard (on the
$120
$110ea in any 3+
$100ea in any 6+
A notably fresh nose is both cool and bright with its pretty aromas of spicy red berries. The racy and nicely voluminous flavors terminate in a raspy and lingering if slightly rustic finish. If this can add depth over the next few years my predicted ranged may be overly conservative.Allen Meadows, Burghound 86-88 PointsAs always, the fruit comes from a 1.5-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the renowned Les Bon Bâtons vineyard (on the edge of Chambolle). It’s a very rocky
$125
$115ea in any 3+
$105ea in any 6+
Buoyantly fresh aromas consist of pretty essence of red berries, violet, lavender and a whiff of earth. There is a lovely sense of energy to the agreeably textured flavors that conclude in a refreshing finish where a touch of bitter cherry pit arises. Lovely. ♥ Outstanding Top valueAllen Meadows, Burghound 86-89 PointsAs always, the fruit comes from a 1.5-hectare parcel of 50-plus-year-old vines in the renowned Les Bon Bâtons vineyard (on the edge of Chambolle). It’s a very rock
$130
$120ea in any 3+
$110ea in any 6+
A subtle but not invisible application of wood sets off cool aromas of plum, violet and a blend of red and dark currant. The succulent, round and plump middleweight flavors that possess good richness and solid volume, all wrapped in a dusty, serious and notably firmer finale. This is also a very fine example of the genre also worth your attention. ♥ Outstanding Top valueAllen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Village has an elegant bouquet with red berries
$280
$270ea in any 3+
$260ea in any 6+
A whiff of reduction is just enough to shave the top notes from the otherwise attractive and ripe aromas of black cherry, spice and raspberry. The sleek, rich and vibrant flavors possess very good volume, indeed they are attractively succulent, all wrapped in a raspy and compact finish where a hint of wood arises.Allen Meadows, Burghound 88-90 Points The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Village is showing beautifully, offering up aromas of cherries, raspberries and blood orange mingled with r
$290
$280ea in any 3+
$270ea in any 6+
Here too the aromas of plum, violet and blueberry are super-fresh and expressive. The sleek, intense and beguilingly delicious middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality onto the firm and relatively serious finish. This is perhaps less elegant than it usually is as it's more structured but it may well compensate by developing even better depth over time. ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points Barthod's beautiful 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village reveals an inviting b
$295
$285ea in any 3+
$275ea in any 6+
A more deeply pitched and somewhat less elegant nose combines notes of spiced plum, dark raspberry and touches of earth, tea and sandalwood. The succulent and beguilingly textured medium-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that helps to buffer the firm tannins that flirt with rusticity on the lingering finish that also reflects a note of bitter cherry pit.Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points For the first time—at the instigation of her son, Clément—Barthod elected to vinify a
$440
$430ea in any 3+
$420ea in any 6+
Here too the nose is fresh, bright and quite pretty with its essence of red pinot fruit, spice and floral nuances. The supple and generous yet punchy medium-bodied flavors also possess an appealing mouthfeel as well as more evident minerality on the ever-so-mildly austere finale.Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-91 PointsThe Chatelots vineyard (2.96 hectares) is also close to the town and partly adjoins Les Charmes. The topsoil is deeper and more alluvial, with plenty of small stones. This
$460
$440ea in any 3+
$420ea in any 6+
A more deeply pitched nose proffers its aromas of plum, black cherry, anise, floral and discreet exotic tea wisps. Gorgeously textured and caressing middle weight flavors possess both good richness and punch while displaying a very subtle bead of minerality that adds a sense of lift on the compact and lingering if ever-so-mildly tangy finale.Allen Meadows, Burghound 90-92 PointsNote: from a .75 ha parcel of 50+ year old vines
$460
$440ea in any 3+
$420ea in any 6+