Why is this Wine so Yummy?
Lamy has 0.7-hectares of vines in this tiny parcel, situated at the western fringe of the village and planted between 1985-1995. Clos du Meix’s sheltered location, (just below Les Castets on a south facing slope), its heavier clays and the fact that it is fully enclosed by a wall (and therefore protected from the cold, northern winds), always gives this wine excellent texture to go with its intense minerality. Contributing to the wine’s character is the boney soil in this vineyard, there’s only 30cm top soil before the vine’s roots hit the hard limestone. In recent years Clos du Meix has been really hitting its straps and the 2016 is no exception. The note below captures it well.
About Domaine Hubert Lamy
One of Burgundy’s best kept secrets is barely a secret any more. Olivier Lamy is making some of the purest and most mineral white Burgundies of the Côte (and some pretty damn handy reds) and demand now far exceeds supply. This will not surprise those who know how this exceptional vigneron works in the vines. Pioneer of high density and of Poussard pruning amongst other things, Lamy’s attention to detail and innovation in the vineyard is now an inspiration to knowledgeable growers across the Côte and even the world!
“I would blindly buy any of the white St-Aubin premiers crus…”
Bill Nanson, The Finest Wines of Burgundy
“These wines offer incredible quality for the price.”
Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
“Young vigneron of great quality, Olivier Lamy produces St Aubins that are worthy of comparison with the greatest wines of Burgundy…”
La Revue du Vin de France, les Meilleurs Vins de France
“Though known for his whites, Olivier Lamy has half-a-dozen reds in his range, the standout being the Santenay Clos des Gravières that exuded class and was way above its station. Overall, it was a bountiful crop of top-class wines from Olivier, continuing to reaffirm his status as one of the best winemakers in the Côte de Beaune.”
Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate
Below are my translations form Lamy’s website
The grapes are whole bunch pressed, gently, using a pneumatic press. Lightly racked into 1-5 year old 300L barrels and 600L demi-muids. Fermentation takes place in the barrels with temperature controlled using a cool cellar to aid a long slow fermentation of up to 90 days.
My experience is that such long, slow fermentation results in increased mid-palate weight and long creamy mouthfeel.
The Chardonnay is stirred a little to suspend lees and malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel. In August (11month after harvest). The wines are lightly fined with cassein (a milk protein) that will clarify them and remove some phenolics. Sulphur additions are made according to analysis.
The wines are bottled after 12-18months élevage.
Fruit is 100% destemmed. Maceration lasts around 20 days with pigeage and pumping over according to the season. 1-3 year old barrels are used for maturation. Malolactic fermentation is completed in barrel. The wines are racked, fined and filtered if necessary.
The wines are bottled after 12-18months élevage.
The 2016 Vintage at Domaine Lamy
2016 is a truly outstanding vintage at this address in both colours, as it is indeed at many addresses across the Côte d’Or. Some are arguing it may well be the finest since 2010 (or 2014 if we are only talking whites), although the quantities are significantly down, which of course makes it all the more frustrating.
To quote one of our favourite Burgundy growers, Ghislaine Barthod, “It is certainly one of my finest years, perhaps the finest. But it is also certainly my smallest in terms of production.” It’s enough to bring a tear to a Burgundy lover’s eye!
But let’s focus on the positive we have before us today. Olivier Lamy did suffer losses to the frosts that ravaged the Côte de Beaune, but it was not as big a disaster for this producer as it was for some, and we have an excellent allocation all things considered. The whites have serious depth yet, as always at this address, tremendous tension, minerality and racy freshness. They have the intensity of 2014, but probably more flesh. They will benefit from two to five years to develop, or even six months just to settle down, although they will wow from the get-go.
Where in the World is Saint-Aubin
Saint-Aubin branches off from Chassagne-Montrachet. Containing some 20 Premier Cru’s producing 75% white and 25% red.
Produces like Lamy and Pierre-Yves-Collin-Morey are working hard to raise the perception of the village which produces fantastic wines.
Exploring the Geology & Geography of the Villages
In this video the villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin and Chassagne-Montrachet are explored. Towards the end, you’ll note the discussion of the soils in the south part of Chassagne-Montrachet being the same as parts of the Côte de Nuits.
Oliver Lamy explore Domaine Hubert Lamy’s Saint Aubin vineyards through their geology