Location

France

France has gone on a roller coaster ride. A booming industry was decimated by mildew and phylloxera in the second half of the 19th century, then two World Wars in the 20th century. Thirst won in the end, and, France is now the World’s #2 wine producer by volume.

Without doubt the two greatest drivers of the French wine industry have been the concept of Terroir and the establishment of the Appellation d’origine contrôlée.

Combined these have defined a philosophical approach to growing and making wine and enforced strict controls of grape varieties that can be planted in each region and winemaking practices that can be employed.

Frances has come through with flying colours, successive generations have been better trained, spent time in the New World exposing them to different techniques for growing vines and making wine, and, have been able to push the boundaries to achieve excellence.

First Records of Wine Production – Go back millennia to the 6th century BC. The Greeks kicked things off with the Romans ramping things up. Those Romans got around and took their vines and wines with them! Over time the wealth of the Monastries took over much of the production. Nobility took their turn until the guillotine fell!

Founding Figures – In ‘recent times’, technical advancement in the industry were driven by Minister of the Interior, Jean-Antoine Chaptal following the French revolution, work done by Louis Pasteur in the 19th century, and, the Emperor Napoleon III commissioning of the 1855 classification of Bordeaux.

Area Planted – with around 630,000 hectares of vines France produces 17% of the World’s wine

Established Regions – When we think French wine, the regions that immediately come to mind are Champagne with its fizz, Bordeaux’s Cabernet blends and Sauternes, Burgundy’s Pinot and Chardonnay, the Rhône Valley’s Shiraz, Grenache, Marsanne & Roussane, and, Alsatian Riesling.

Most Common Varieties

White – From greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, Sémillon, Chennin Blanc, Colombard, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and, Riesling.

Red – The list doesn’t surprise the order they come in does from greatest area planted down the top red varieties are Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Cinsaut, Pinot Meunier and Mourvèdre.

Up and Coming Regions – In recent times we’ve seen the Rosé of Provence, the hidden gems from the Languedoc, Jura and Loire Valley increasing in popularity.

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Domaine Arnaud Lambert Samur Brézé ‘Clos David’ 2021

Chenin Blanc | Saumur, Brézé

Serious Chenin here. A big jump from the Midi. Lambert appears to be working with a little more phenolic extract adding a playful grip and cleansing astringency. Very complete and flowing. David’s extra time in old oak and a 2nd winter in tank give it harmony and refinement, flowing with a real step up in sophistication. Super zippy, mineral acid with the core of fruit to support it. Building generosity and freshness in the glass on a fine crisp acidity. Heading more strongly down the quinc

$111

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Available in Magnum Too!

André Clouet Brut Rosé NV

Pinot Noir | Champagne, Ambonnay

Amid an ocean of Champagne Rosé this is one of the few that stands out! A Rosé with great poise, well balanced, with a great depth and length of fruit delicious Pinot fruit. No need to rely on excessive sugar to make up for poor fruit here! The texture and spice from the addition of a small percentage of red wine to colour the Rosé is just right adding intrigue and cleansing your palate. Rosé as it should be!

$112

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Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py ‘James’ 2018

Gamay Noir | Morgon, Beaujolais

I thought Bouland, Thivin & Foillard were good! Superb Morgon. Jean-Marc’s Cote du Py is a cracker. So what do you get for coin when you head to the ‘James’? The answer … extra layers. Extra layers of flavour, layers of tannin. Yes, it’s bolder than the 2019 Cote du Py, yet it retains an elegance of fruit. The extra year has seen it relax a little, still tight though. It will reward you with time. 3 years will make an incredible difference. 5 more, although it’s hard not to resist ta

$112

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Hard to beat for the $

Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru Clos de Myglands Monopole 2021

Pinot Noir | Mercurey, Burgundy

Give it a couple of days open or a few years in bottle and you'll go to a happy place. Reviews yet to come. Kelley's note below is of the 2020. Along with the Le Clos du Roy this represents one of the best value Burgundies on the market. As I wrote earlier this year, Faiveley's 2019 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Myglands is a success, delivering aromas of sweet berry fruit, plums, espresso roast and spices. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, with powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a

$112

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Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Monthelie 1er ‘Clos les Champs Fulliot’ 2019

Pinot Noir | Monthelie, France

Here the expressive nose is spicier and a bit more floral as well with its baked plum, black cherry and soft earth scents. I very much like the texture of the medium-bodied flavors that are more precise if not quite as rich or powerful, all wrapped in a mildly sweet finish where a touch of warmth slowly emerges. While qualitatively similar, the texture of this and the Les Duresses are like night and day. Allen Meadows, Burghound 89-92 Points

$115

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Dry 3g/L

Huet Vouvray Sec ‘Le Mont’ 2021

Chenin Blanc | Vouvray, D'Anjou-Saumur

“This 2021 Le Mont Sec fills the mouth with pear, pineapple, nectarine and violet flavors. There’s a sense of seduction and succulence through the middle of this wine. The flint and the coolness of the site seem to bring a sense of tension and purpose through this wine, which seduces you then spits you out. Delightful fragrance and a mouthwatering, racy finish.” Rebecca Gibb, Vinous 96 Points

$115

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Dry 3g/L

Huet Vouvray Sec ‘Clos du Bourg’ 2021

Chenin Blanc | Vouvray, D'Anjou-Saumur

“The 2021 Clos du Bourg Sec is an ample, full bodied wine with a stream of acidity. Pure, floral and fragrant with aromas of pineapple, violets and fresh grapes. While rich, it is light in sensation, like a cloud of Chenin filling the mouth, and finishes with a fine, almost powdery and chalky texture.” Rebecca Gibb, Vinous 95 Points

$115

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Daniel Bouland Morgon Délys MAGNUM 2021

Gamay Noir | Morgon, Beaujolais

Super refined and long with the finish offering all kinds of florals and exotic spice! "Bouland's bottling from younger vines, the 2021 Morgon Delys delivers notes of plums, wild berries, spices and forest floor, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's still a little compact after its very recent bottling. It shows plenty of potential, however." William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 92 Points

$115

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Dry 3-5g/L

Huet Vouvray Sec ‘Le Mont’ 2022

Chenin Blanc | Vouvray, D'Anjou-Saumur

Big step up from the Haut Lieu & Clos de Bourg this year. Sophistication line and length more tension helping give a sense of purity. The typical Vouvray soft flow with a riper fruit flavour profile compared with a Savennières. Pear, candied ginger yellow stone fruit. Refined, long, beautifully weighted, flowing & delicious. Generosity with restraint. A little white flowers dancing over the top. Will make a great comparison with the 2021. The 2022 Le Mont Sec is a parcel of Cheni

$115

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Off Dry 18-25g/l sugar

Huet Vouvray Demi Sec ‘Clos du Bourg’ 2020

Chenin Blanc | Vouvray, France

“Drinking the 2020 Clos du Bourg Demi-Sec is like taking your shoes off at the end of a long day of walking and soaking them in warm water: there's just satisfaction and relaxation. The 2020 has a sense of volume but not weight, filling the mouth with depths of pure fruit before the acid pours forth like a canal lock being opened. You can expect a hint of spice and crème caramel alongside apple and florals. I am utterly seduced.” Rebecca Gibb, Vinous 97 Points SR 95

$116

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André Perret Saint-Joseph ‘Les Grisières’ Rouge 2019

Shiraz/Syrah | Saint-Joseph, France

Poise and shape. Perret’s Saint-Joseph has a drinkability about it that is so often lacking in the new world. Florals, on red and blue fruits with a bit of spice sit delicately on framework of tannins with a nice bit of mid-palate grip. Weightless yet full of flavour. A graceful Syrah. It’s fun now, there is no doubt that time will be kind helping it relax and show more perceived generosity.

$116

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Domaine des Roches Neuves Samur-Champigny ‘La Marginale’ 2019

Cabernet Franc | Saumur, France

Deceptive in it’s depth and length. There is a trick exceptional wines manage, they appear weightless yet have incredible depth and layer after layer of intrigue. This is such a wine. Funny, Thierry’s wines remind me in so many ways of Yarra Yering. When I made wine there we were focused on two things, texture and complexity, building in layer after layer of intrigue. As with Thierry’s fruit we had incredible acidity. We aimed to make wines that you’d drink half a bottle, think, shit tha

$116

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Domaine Thierry Laffay Chablis 1er ‘Côte de Lechet’ 2020

Chardonnay | Chablis, France

Sitting between the Vaillons and Mont de Milieu in terms of richness and minerality Delicacy, laced and fine, perfumed, elegant and long, a little primary would be interesting to see what a little time in old wood would do for this. The salinity is back in force. Tighter it will need bottle age to show it’s best. The phenolics / acid complex will take time. Everything is there waiting to come together and give a little patience you will be in a very happy place.

$117

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Domaine Thierry Laffay Chablis 1er ‘Mont de Milieu’ 2020

Chardonnay | Chablis, France

The richest of the 1ers! Richer and more out to play there’s plenty of fruit drive here. Honeyed, a little nutty with maple at play, crème patissere. Generosity from this warmer site is tempered by a line of acid. That long ferment mid-palate with a little baking spice, pop of cracked yeast. Long.

$117

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Domaine Thibert Pouilly-Vinzelles ‘Les Longeays’ 2018

Chardonnay | Pouilly-Fuisse, France

“The 2018 Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Longeays is lovely, mingling notions of peach, pear and orange oil with scents of freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and classy new oak. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and penetrating, with racy acids and a long, saline finish, it's a terrific wine of real character. 2022 -2035” William Kelley 93 Points, Burghound 89-91 ♥ Outstanding Top Value

$117

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Domaine Faiveley Mercurey 1er Cru ‘Le Clos du Roy’ 2021

Pinot Noir | Mercurey, Burgundy

Punching above its weight! Reviews yet to come. Kelley's note below is of the 2019. Along with the Clos de Myglands this represents one of the best value Burgundies on the market. Aromas of plums, spices, incense and soil tones, framed by a touch of toasty new oak, introduce the 2019 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy, a medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety wine that's fleshy and concentrated, with fine, powdery tannins and lively acids. This is an enveloping, gourmand wine from a 2.6-hec

$117

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