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The Bürklin-Wolf estate is based in the Mittelhaardt, the quality core of Germany’s world-renowned Pfalz, around the towns of Wachenheim, Forst, Deidesheim and Ruppertsberg. Here with 85ha under vine they have the largest family owned wine estate in all of Germany originating in 1597, with a treasure-trove of superb vineyards, at the centre of which lies the great Kirchenstück. Here in the tiny village of Forst, Kirchenstück and its neighbours Jesuitengarten, Ungeheuer and Pechstein, have for centuries been recognised as producing not only some of the world’s greatest dry Rieslings, but simply some of the world’s greatest wines. In the nineteenth century, prices for these wines exceeded the prices paid for 1st Growth Bordeaux and Grand Cru Burgundy.
“This estate has consistently produced some of the finest dry rieslings of any given vintage from an incredible arsenal of excellent vineyards. One of the first estates in Germany to embrace biodynamic viticulture, Burklin-Wolf is now able give each wine its own voice …
Stephen Tanzer
In 1990 Bürklin-Wolf began reviewing their vineyard holdings in the context of the 1828 Royal Bavarian Land Tax Classification and after years of exhaustive research they discovered that today’s top vineyards are substantially the same as those identified back in 1828. Today they have adopted a Burgundian model with four tiers: Estate, Village, PC (code for Premier Cru) and GC (for Grand Cru). They are focussed on dry, terroir-driven wines and no longer routinely produce the Kabinett and Spätlese styles defined by the (still current) 1971 German Wine Law.
Hand harvest and whole-bunch pressing with oxidative handling of the juices into mostly large old foudre for fermentation with indigenous yeast on fine lees for nearly 6 months for the entry level and village wines and 12 months for PC wines and up to 18 months for GC wines.
The vineyards of Dr Bürklin-Wolf are in the heart of the Pfalz.
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Tasting through Burklin-Wolf's range, it always strikes me just how well they've done in classifying their vineyards and pricing them accordingly. Every once in a while, there is a site that outperforms its standing. Generally, you can rely on their classification and price point as an indicator of quality. The Village 'Forst' Riesling fits the rule of thumb to a tee. A lacing of savoury reduction plays with native yeast on high solids ferments adding multiple dimensions of complexity and richne
From a higher and cooler site with loess covering the red sandstone soils, the 2022 Wachenheimer Altenburg P.C. opens with a pure, fresh and refined yet also intense and elegant sandstone bouquet with saline notes of crushed stones and phenolic notes from the grapes that are well exposed to the sun. The wine promises a generous character but keeps the purity and elegance of sandstone soils. On the palate, this is a generous and lush but also refined and elegant Riesling with saline acidity, fine
The 2023 Altenburg Wachenheim P.C. is precise and savory on the elegant and classical, slightly flinty and coolish, very stimulating nose. Full-bodied, intense and fleshy on the palate, this is a mouth-filling Riesling with less energy than textural qualities that are framed by serious tannins and ripe lemon bitters on the finish. This is a Riesling for richer dishes that could also be paired with a red wine. 13.5% stated alcohol. Diam 30 cork. Tasted at the domaine in January 2025. Drink 2025-2
The 2022 Wachenheimer Gerümpel P.C. is super clear, intense and flinty on the very elegant and refined nose that reveals extremely stony (basalt!) and saline aromas as well as substantial fruit aromas intermingled with sulfur-spring notes. Full-bodied, this is a pure, refined and saline, vibrantly fresh and expressive terroir Riesling with remarkable intensity and grip due to its rich minerals and serious tannins. This is an age-worthy Riesling that will hardly please any non-Riesling aficionad
The 2023 Gerümpel Wachenheim P.C. is clear, bright, elegant and fresh in its pure and aromatic bouquet that's on the lemon side of the fruit spectrum. Rich and generous but elegant and refined on the palate, this is a full-bodied, savory and textural Riesling with delicate and finely grained acidity and round, lush, intense and slightly creamy fruit. The finish is long and complex and really substantial. 12.5% stated alcohol. Diam 30 cork. Tasted at the domaine in January 2025. Drink 2025-2055
Here we go! Complete, harmonious, fine, long & even with midpalate depth & layering. Funk in balance with excellent zippy acid. Excellent shape and flow, citrus, green white stone fruit. Funktified. Mineral acid feel. This is very, very good!From up to 44-year-old vines in the estate's 7.55-hectare monopole, the 2021 Gaisböhl G.C. opens with a pure, fresh, intense, slightly reductive, lemon-scented nose of ripe fruit aromas and flinty notes. Saline, fresh and tensioned on the pa
Clear, pure, aromatic and fresh on the nose, as if you were diving deep into the Atlantic, the 2022 Gaisböhl G.C. opens beautifully precise and iodine-infused on the nose that reveals intense but refined ripe peach and raspberry aromas. Very fresh and seriously structured, this is a pure and tensioned but also aromatic yet very precise and savory Riesling with playful acidity and stimulating, classic fruit. This is a gorgeous, persistently saline and tensioned Riesling in a classical style. Tas
The 2023 Gaisböhl G.C. opens with a deep, clear, fresh and almost earthy nose with wet clay and stone aromas. Full-bodied, round and savory on the palate, this is a generous, precise, saline and crunchy, finely tannic and powerful Riesling with a long, intense and forceful yet still refined and elegant finish. Impressive wine. 12.5% stated alcohol. Diam 30 cork. Tasted at the domaine in January 2025. Drink 2030-2060Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate 96 PointsSP 97
Bürklin's 2021 Ungeheuer G.C. is clear, deep and intense as well as flinty on the saline and lemony nose that combines richness and intensity with precision and freshness. Pure, saline and very fresh on the palate, this is a full-bodied, dense and savory, enormously tight and even finely tannic Ungeheuer with fine grip and a saline finish with ripe, concentrated fruit. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. Drink 2028-2052Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advo
Bürklin's 2021 Pechstein G.C. shows a deep, pure, intense and saline, very complex and elegant bouquet of concentrated tropical fruit aromas intertwined with flinty, iodine and citrus aromas. Pure, very intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, iodine-inflected and stimulatingly saline Pechstein with fine tannins and a long, dense, complex and tensioned finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. Drink 2029-2055Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine
The 2023 Pechstein G.C. opens with a deep, fresh, pure, elegant and lemony as well as flinty bouquet that needs a little while to open up. Full-bodied, refined and elegant on the palate, this is an intense, very complex and aromatic, super sustainable and finely tannic Pechstein with fennel seed flavors and rare calm and balance on the saline finish, which makes this an outstanding relaxed and very distinctive Riesling. 12.5% stated alcohol. Diam 30 cork. Tasted at the domaine in January 2025..
Bürklin's 2021 Pechstein G.C. shows a deep, pure, intense and saline, very complex and elegant bouquet of concentrated tropical fruit aromas intertwined with flinty, iodine and citrus aromas. Pure, very intense and concentrated on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, iodine-inflected and stimulatingly saline Pechstein with fine tannins and a long, dense, complex and tensioned finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Tasted at the domaine in November 2022. Drink 2029-2055Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine
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