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As purity, expression and transparency increasingly dominate the discourse in Burgundy, the prices for wines from icons like Mugnier, Roumier and Rousseau have skyrocketed.
But for every Mugnier or Rousseau, there are a handful of domaines who make wines of profound expression, but whose prices remain attractive. At the top of our list of such producers is Louis Boillot.
There’s enough Boillots in Burgundy to field a Rugby team. Louis and his wife, Ghislain, have built and share immaculate cellars in Chambolle.
Their son Clément has now taken over the making of the wines from both Domains and the impeccable Beaujolais under the name Boillot-Barthod. After a considerable apprenticeship, Clément, is weaving his magic crafting divine wines.
Boillot’s wines are sophisticated and pure with great harmony. The mouthfeel Clément manages to infuse is wonderfully plush and supple.
The density of Burghound ♥ scores is rarely this high across so many vintages for one maker!
A collection of old vine sites, still yielding well across so many villages is a testament to their skill in the vineyard.
The consistency crafting spellbinding wines across all 3 Domaines a remarkable feat.
It’s unusual for a maker to have such great touch across so many villages!
Trying his Bourgogne, from mostly Gevrey fruit, is enough to see the clarity of the Domaine’s wines.
There’s a theme for Domaine Louis Boillot’s Burgundy of harmony, and, delicacy with intensity. His wines have great precision and expression.
Today, as in the past, a profound respect for the terroir of old vines is at the heart of the estate’s style. In Gevrey-Chambertin for example, the villages vines average over 50 years old, as do the vines for the lieu-dit Evocelles. His Champonnet proves this little-seen site ranks among Gevery’s best premier crus. And the Cherbaudes, from 100+ year old vines, is frequently of grand cru quality.
A profound Nuit-St. Georges 1er cru Pruliers is produced, also from 100+ year old vines. And, in Chambolle-Musigny, Louis and Ghislaine purchased and divided a significant old-vine holding in Beaux Bruns.
The domaine’s Côte de Beaune vineyards are equally imposing, with 65+-year-old vines in the villages Volnay Grands Poisots. Also in Volnay, there are three premier crus: the supple Les Angles, the intense old-vine Brouillards and the esteemed Caillerets. Just down the road, there are two great Pommard premier crus: a robust Fremiers and monumental Croix Noires.
In fact, it’s hard to imagine the wines of so many great Burgundy terroirs slumbering in the same cellar. Between Louis Boillot and Ghislaine Barthod, there are over 26 different cuvées, of which 17 are premier cru. Without question, Clément has a treasure chest of great sites to vinify as his parents slowly settle into retirement.
Louis’ domaine has quietly become one of the most admired small estates in the Côte d’Or. The turning point came in the mid-2000s, when he and his partner—the supremely talented Ghislaine Barthod—built a cave together in Chambolle-Musigny.
This brought two of Burgundy’s most gifted winemakers together—working and tasting side by side—with the alchemy you’d expect.
Domaine Louis Boillot shares a winery in Chambolle-Musigny with his wife Ghislain Barthod. He has plantings through out Chambolle, Gevrey-Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Beaune, Volnay, and Pommard. Together with son Clément they acquired 4 Ha of Moulin-a-Vent in Beaujolais.
Showing of wines
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
“Royal purple, the nose has some real concentration in a relatively ripe configuration. Certainly this Evocelles starts out as plump and rich, then with firmer tannins. Dark fruit. Not quite together yet but packs a punch and is persistent.” Jasper Morris, 90-93 Points
Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune
“The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards has turned out especially well. Opening in the glass with aromas of red berries and plums mingled with sweet soil tones, hints of raw cocoa and rose petals, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, with terrific concentration and beautifully refined tannins. Boillot observes, and I agree, that this site's tannins have become much more refined over the last five years.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 93 Points JM 91-93
Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune
“The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Angles is sensual and charming, bursting from the glass with aromas of plums, raw cocoa, sweet spices and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, it's lively and textural, with a broad attack and a long, expansive finish.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate 92 Points JM 90-93
Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune
A relatively high-toned and more elegant nose features notes of red currant, cherry, raspberry and a hint of lavender. The super-sleek, indeed almost lacy middle weight flavors display more minerality if less density before terminating in a lingering finish that tightens up noticeably on the dusty and mildly austere finale.Allen Meadows
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
An equally restrained nose combines both upper and lower register elements that include red cherry and pomegranate with those of plum, earth and forest floor. There is notably better concentration, power and punch to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess evident muscularity and minerality on the compact and serious finale that delivers sneaky good length. A Gevrey 1er of relative refinement. ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows
Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin, Côte-de-Nuits
This is also slightly reduced and it's enough to render the nose difficult to assess. The medium-bodied flavors are both more powerful and concentrated though at the expense of less refinement and minerality on the driving and impressively persistent finish. This will need to add depth to merit the upper end of my predicted range but the underlying material appears to be present so that this can eventually happen. Patience required. ♥ OutstandingAllen Meadows
Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune
“This is perhaps even cooler and more restrained with its layered array of various dark berries, plum, freshly turned earth and a whiff of violet. The mid-palate mouthfeel of the middleweight plus flavors is quite refined yet this contrasts substantially with the moderately rustic, dusty, austere and serious finale. This very powerful and compact effort is expressly built-to-age and is one that is definitely going to need it, indeed I would be surprised if it is approachable before 10 years ha
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
“An overtly floral-suffused nose speaks of airy red berry scents that are liberally laced with a lovely range of spice elements as well as subtle earth and humus nuances. There is markedly better complexity to the medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent punch and this sense of vibrancy also can be found on the long and quite firm finish that is moderately austere but not really rustic, indeed I would go so far as to describe this as a Pruliers of relative refinement, which isn't something
Pinot Noir from Nuits-Saint-Georges, Côte-de-Nuits
Boillot has always done a remarkable job with this vineyard and 2016 will only add to that track record. There is gorgeous complexity to the fresh and notably ripe red berry fruit, humus and pungent earth scented nose. The succulent, dense and powerful broad-shouldered flavors brim with copious dry extract that mostly manages to buffer the very firm tannic spine on the superbly long finish that flashes just a trace of Nuits style rusticity. This very serious and built-to-age effort is breathtaki
Pinot Noir from Volnay, Côte du Beaune
“An agreeably fresh nose is more floral still with its notes of lavender and violet along with a plenitude of spice hints of spice suffusing the black cherry and dark currant scents. The rich, delicious and markedly punchy medium-bodied flavors possess evident minerality yet no lack of power that seems to build on the wonderfully persistence, balanced and textured finale. This is very much built-to-repay extended keeping which is a good thing as more depth would raise its attractiveness." ♥
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