Winery

Cappellano

Cappellano sits with the greats of Barolo along with Giuseppe Rinaldi, Bartolo Mascarello and Giacomo Conterno. Luca Carrudo of Vietti considers Baldo a second father.

A couple of years ago I was blessed to attend a dinner with a double vertical of Capellano wines, the Rupestris and Piè Franco. These names refer to rootstock of the vines. Rupestris vines being grafted onto American rootstock, resistant to phylloxera, Piè Franco or French foot vines being ungrafted, on their own roots, and thus susceptible to attack from phylloxera!

The two wines although from the same vineyard and made in the same way are remarkably different. Typically the Rupestris has much more generosity of fruit a richness and certain power. The Piè Franco is lythe, elegant and sophisticated. It’s going to be fascinating to see what happens in the Yarra Valley, where, as of the last 5 years or so, replanting from old vines on their own roots to grafted vines on large scale to combat the ingress of phylloxera has commenced. Will we see the same powering up of the wines? Only time will tell.

Cappellano on the Barolo ‘Rupestris’

The vineyards in Gabutti in Serralunga d’Alba are unanimously regarded as one of the most prestigious ‘crus’ of the Barolo-producing area. They are located at the centre of a land with an extraordinary vocation for growing nebbiolo, a vine which produces wines with remarkable character and structure perfect for ageing. This is the birthplace of Barolo OtinFiorin Piè Rupestris: it is 100% Serralunga in its character ‒ a paradigmatic wine thanks to its severe and authoritative tone, with an austere but also generous and sharing manner ‒ as well as in the organoleptic characteristics: liquorice, juniper, tar, balsamic notes, spices and undergrowth are just the most recognisable and typical expressions of an aromatic patrimony which sketches, year after year, a veritable narration of the land. This is made authentic and trustworthy by our unequivocally natural choices and by an attitude alien to mediation. A narration which changes and evolves in time, under the sign of longevity and tradition.

Tradition

Tradition noun Latin traditio -onis, literally «delivery, transmission», derived from Latin tradĕre «to hand over, deliver»]

During the years we have been sometimes added, for various reasons, to the ranks of the “traditionalists”. We believe that this definition is a limit only when it is associated with the deceptive term of “conservatives”. We do not reject it ‒ rather, we lay claim to it ‒ in its true meaning of delivery and transmission of lore and practices, indispensable values for progress and for that sort of “backwards evolution” my father loved to talk about.

In practice, these values translate into an activity respectful of the land and of its offerings: in the vineyard we work with an organic methodology (copper, sulphur in different ways, and no pesticides), in the cellar we limit our interventions to the minimum by reproducing exactly what the elder generations used to do, only with more refined tools.

The basic concept is that of ‘delicacy’, from the grapevine to the bottle: we prune with non-invasive techniques, we harvest with tools which preserve the integrity of the grapes, we stock our bottles in an underground cellar purposely built to guarantee the perfect ageing until shipping.

Revolution

“Who does not stand on one side or the other of the fence, is the fence himself”

Vladimir Il’ič Ul’janov

Winemakers Cappellano have often been associated with the concept of “revolution” ‒ quite an oxymoron if one thinks of the established renown as “traditionalists”. And yet, tradition and revolution are two sides of the same coin ‒ a revolutionary or nonconformist attitude seems to be inscribed in the genes of the Cappellano patriarchs.

A grandfather, Francesco, so stubborn as to leave the Langhe to set up a wine business in Africa (specifically in the former Italian colony of Eritrea).

A father, Baldo, who returned to Italy with his family and with the dream to restore the family vineyard from scratch. He purchased back a plot of land in one of the most prestigious crus in the Langhe ‒ Gabutti. He re-established the production of Barolo Chinato with the old recipe, and realised his father’s old dream of an ungrafted vineyard.

A bit crazy, dreamers, reckless. Visionary, brave, precursors. These words and many more were used about them, this ‒ and much more ‒ can be inferred from their family history, only briefly sketched here. These traits best characterise those personalities which bring about change and revolution. We like to believe that this tiny seed of folly, suggestive of a brighter future and of a dream worth fighting for, is now endemic and permeates me as well as all the wonderful people who have made the vineyard reach this day. We strongly believe that the right motivation, fuelled by a fire, is necessary to make life worth living. Call it a cause, call it utopia. This pursuit makes us happy and, hopefully, also active and productive parts of this world-system.

Anarchy

“If I dare to use the word, ideologically I am certainly an anarchist. I believe that I am civilised enough to grant myself a degree of self-rule.”

Fabrizio De André

I would like to indulge with memories now because the term “anarchy” is inseparable from my father. I grew up together with the vineyard, and both of us were grown by a free and responsible man. Free to express concepts and elaborate projects against the mainstream views; free from the human calling to follow the flock for the sake of comfort and safety. Responsible for he was always animated by unyielding respect for the others and by the innate attitude to side with the weak. Anarchy and sociability, freedom and responsibility. For a child as well as for a company, growing up in the union of the opposites means to put a philosophy into practice, to take it as a model beyond the mere theory. My father bequeathed to us a sort of anarchic thinking and independent attitude which prompted us to even question (or re-think) his own work, lest we fall into the trap of a diverse yet equally undesirable homologation. What remains, unforgettable, is an approach to life ‒ and to winemaking ‒ which signifies what really matters to us: it is unthinkable to follow a random dogma, in particular when it is nothing more than a momentary fashion. We are interested in the meaning. A good produce, the true expression of what the land and the season give, combined with the wisdom necessary to pursue harmony and pleasure. We are devoted to the ethics of land and man, we believe in humankind and in Nature, but we start from small to think big. Do not look for us on the big stages, rather expect to find us in uncommon places, in unexpected situations which may let us share a glass of wine and a part of the journey.

Counterlabel

To Wine “Guides” humbly­ speaking:

“In 1983 I asked the journalist Sheldon Wasserman not to publish scores for my wine. Not only did he not publish the scores in his book “Italian Noble Wines” he also wrote that I had asked not to be in the “classificatios” in which a comparison becomes a divise numerical term rather than expressing shared human toil. I have not changed my mind: my tiny farm producing 20,000 bottles of wine a year interests only a small number of customer­friends. I believe in freedom of information, even if the judgement is negative. I think of my hills as an anarchical arena, with no inquisitors or opposing faction’s, whose inner richness is stimulated by severe, thoughtful critics; I strive for a community that can still express solidarity with whoever has not been so well­rewarded by Mother nature.

Wishful thinking? Allow me to dream.”

Teobaldo

Filters & Sorting

Showing all 15 results

Cappellano Barbera Gabutti 2015

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Another great Piemonte vine, another great aspect of the Gabutti vineyards. A classic Barbera, feminine in its generosity and masculine in its posture. It is characterised by a distinctive acidity which sustains softness and fruit, and delivers a vibrating tasting experience until the long finale. The wine gives the impression of partial incompleteness, of continuous change; like all the red wines with strong character it takes its time to unveil its potentiality, character, and pleasures. We ha

Cappellano Barbera Gabutti 2017

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

The 2017 Barbera d'Alba Gabutti captures all of the natural richness of the vintage in spades. Super-ripe red cherry, kirsch, mint, rose petal, star anise and blood orange are some of the many sensations that develop with some air. Though classically built in terms of structure, the 2017 is decidedly ripe in its expression of fruit. This is a very serious wine. Time in the glass really helps bring things together and tone down some of the most exotic ripeness that is present at the outset. An
$145
$140ea in any 3+
$135ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barbera Gabutti 2016

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Another great Piemonte vine, another great aspect of the Gabutti vineyards. A classic Barbera, feminine in its generosity and masculine in its posture. It is characterised by a distinctive acidity which sustains softness and fruit, and delivers a vibrating tasting experience until the long finale. The wine gives the impression of partial incompleteness, of continuous change; like all the red wines with strong character it takes its time to unveil its potentiality, character, and pleasures. We ha
$150
$145ea in any 3+
$140ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barbera Gabutti 2018

Barbera | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2018 Barbera d'Alba Gabutti is fabulous. In some recent vintages, the Cappellano Barbera has been a pretty big wine, but in 2018 it is all finesse. The purity of the fruit is striking, but the aromatics and mid-weight structure - both of which lean towards Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo - are just captivating. Kirsch, sweet spice, mint, ripe raspberry and a burst of bright acids linger. I would be thrilled to own this. Harvest was on October 3, very late for Barbera. Drink 2022-2032 Antonio Gall
$151
$144ea in any 3+
$137ea in any 6+
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ 2012

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2012 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris - Nebioli ­has really gained in weight and stature since I last tasted it. On this night, the 2012 impresses with its substance and stature, qualities that emerge fully with a bit of time in the glass. The 2012 continues to come together during this early part of its life. It is one of the positive surprises of the evening. Oct 2020 The 2012 Barolo Barolo Rupestris is super-refined and nuanced. Expressive floral notes and bright, red-toned fruit lif
$620
$600ea in any 3+
$580ea in any 6+
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ 2009

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2009 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris - Nebioli is a fabulous start to this evening, as it is in such a beautiful spot right now. Open-knit and sensual, the 2009 envelops the palate with rich, pliant fruit, all wrapped into a silky, mid-weight frame. I have never been crazy about the 2009 Barolos, but there is no question the wines are drinking very well at the moment. What a gorgeous Barolo. Antonio Galloni - NR as per request from Cappellano
$760
$740ea in any 3+
$720ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

I know it's infanticide, I couldn't resist. Crack a tube. Initial reserved it didn't take long for this to start opening in the glass. Such a beautiful perfume, sophisticated, elegant aromas. Every sniff offered up a new layer. Great length, lingering delights await! Mouthfeel show bold tannins of quality. This is going to be a fascinating wine to watch evolve. Will make a great comparison with Sordo's Gabutti of the same Cru. The 2016 Barolo Rupestris is unbelievably delicate. A Barolo of
$900
$275ea in any 3+
$265ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ MAGNUM 2015

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2015 Barolo Barolo Rupestris is a classic Rupestris built on texture, volume and resonance. The 2015 Barolo Barolo Rupestris is a classic Rupestris built on texture, volume and resonance. Of course, the 2015 still needs quite a bit of time in bottle to come together, but it is wonderfully deep and fleshy today. Hints of dried flowers, sage, mint and crushed raspberry develop in the glass, but more than anything, the Rupestris is a wine of breadth and resonance. The 2015 marries hedonistic pl
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ 2004

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2004 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris-Nebioli is nearly as compelling as the 2008. Layered and totally sensual from the outset, the 2004 is a terrific example of the year. Perfumed aromatics meld into sweet red cherry, tobacco, licorice and spice. Firm tannins give the Rupestris a bit more austerity than is common in this vintage, but that also ensures the wine will drink well for years to come. So many 2004s are accessible, but the Rupestris is a Barolo I would choose to cellar for at leas
$1,205
$1185ea in any 3+
$1165ea in any 6+
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’ 2009

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2009 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet is pliant, supple and inviting, with no hard edges and plenty of immediate appeal. The sweet dark cherry, tobacco, plum and spice flavors are nicely pushed forward. I imagine the 2009 will mature earlier than some of the other surrounding vintages, but I am nevertheless encouraged by this strong showing. Dec 2017 Antonio Galloni - NR as per request from Cappellano
$1,305
$1285ea in any 3+
$1265ea in any 6+
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’ 2007

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Ample, deep and exquisitely layered, the Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Franco-Michet is the most showy of the six wines in this first flight. The natural richness of the vintage is tempered by a classic expression of structure. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, smoke and licorice build into the huge, explosive finish. What a wine! As good – not great – as the 2007 is, it is also nowhere near being ready to drink. Dec 2017 Antonio Galloni - NR as per request from Cappellano The 
$1,375
$1355ea in any 3+
$1335ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barolo ‘Rupestris’ MAGNUM 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2016 Barolo Rupestris is unbelievably delicate. A Barolo of haunting beauty, the Rupestris is endowed with sneaky concentration that reveals itself only with time in the glass. Potent tannins and bright acids give the Rupestris fabulous energy. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2016 for a number of years. It is one of the most reticent young vintages I have ever tasted here. Dried cherry, mint, cedar, dried flowers and sweet pipe tobacco linger on the sinewy finish. Antonio Galloni
$1,800
$590ea in any 3+
$570ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’ 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2016 Barolo Piè Franco is every bit as impressive as it was last year. What a wine! Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2016 possesses unreal depth and stature to burn. Once again, I am so impressed with the wine's presence. The Franco is usually ethereal and fleeting, but not here. The 2016 is a bold wine that demands attention. Dark red fruit, sage, iron, leather, licorice and rose petal open with a bit of coaxing. Readers who can find the 2016 are in for a real treat. It is without questio
$1,995
$562ea in any 3+
$542ea in any 6+
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Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’ 2004

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

I had a vertical of Pei Franco spanning 2000-2013 in April 2021, one of, the highlight of the night was the 2004. Delicious, texture, line and length. Earthy floracls, savoury core of fruit. A little lift sitting beautifully. Wonderful freshness, delicacy and flowers on the palate. Excellent. Paul Kaan WINE DECODED
$2,230
$2210ea in any 3+
$2190ea in any 6+

Cappellano Barolo ‘Piè Franco’ MAGNUM 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

The 2015 Barolo Piè Franco is ethereal and elusive, as the best vintages of this wine tend to be. The 2016 Barolo Piè Franco is every bit as impressive as it was last year. What a wine! Rich, powerful and explosive, the 2016 possesses unreal depth and stature to burn. Once again, I am so impressed with the wine's presence. The Franco is usually ethereal and fleeting, but not here. The 2016 is a bold wine that demands attention. Dark red fruit, sage, iron, leather, licorice and rose petal open
$3,990
$1230ea in any 3+
$1210ea in any 6+