Red Wine

Nebbiolo

Nebbiolo, pronounced NEH-bee-oh-low, is such a unique variety. The name is derived from the Italian word Nebbia meaning fog.

Two theories for the name exist. The first that it refers to the fog that the vineyards of the Langhe are often immersed in. Second that the natural bloom that covers the grapes gives them a foggy appearance. Given the latter applies to most red grapes I prefer the former! There are 4 main clones of which Nebbiolo Lampia dominates over Nebbiolo Michet, Rosé (now proven to be a different variety), and, Bolla.

Where is it grown?

Southern central and north Piemonte. The two big guns here are Barolo and Barbaresco. It is grown throughout the Langhe including the Roero, Asti, Carema, Biella, Novara and Vercelli. In Alto Piedmonte, it is known as Spanna, and, is often blended with Croatina and Vespolina. We have seen Giacomo Conterno buy Nervi in the Commune of Gattinara to produce wines in the region. It is also grown in the lower parts of the Valle d’Aosta where it is known as Picotendroi, and, Valtellina in Lombardy where it is called Chiavennasca among others.

What does it taste like?

The ultimate case of not judging a book by its cover, Nebbiolo, at first appears pale in colour, old wines can have the appearance of rusty tap water.

Then you smell it! The aroma of most red wines is dominated by fruit characters. In contrast, Nebbiolo’s aroma is typically a mix of complex secondary aromas, earthy, tarry, spice, rose, citrus peel, woody herbs like rosemary, liquorice, phenol, dark chocolate, tobacco, truffles, leather, and, dark cherry fruit, often more evident on the palate. You’ll see this difference immediately by comparing it two the other two main Piedmontese varieties Barbera and Dolcetto.

Good Nebbiolo has a core of fruit running the length of your tongue, along with layers of those same secondary characters. Nebbiolo’s grape tannins give it a distinct texture, that for those who have not tried it before can seem hard, and, unyielding. Look for the quality and depth of tannin.

Achieving well balance tannin, alcohol, and, acidity makes for great Nebbiolo.

More than most other Italian wines, Nebbiolo, demands food to be at its best. A little fat and salt, enhance the texture and bring out the flavours.

Check out all the articles in the Wine Bites Mag exploring Nebbiolo.

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Due April 2024

Bruno Giacosa Nebbiolo d’Alba Vigna Valmaggiore 2022

Nebbiolo | Roero, Italy

Known above all for the exceptional quality of the wines Giacosa has produced over the years, Valmaggiore still represents the peak of value in the current range. A wonderful vineyard site now popularised by a handful of producers including Giacosa, the Valmaggiore bottling displays a noticeable step up in nuance and structure to the ‘regular’ Nebbiolo d’Alba which comes from various sites in Roero. Nebbiolo’s typical red fruits and red rose are abundant in the Nebbiolo Valmaggiore, w

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Marcarini Barolo ‘Brunate’ 2016

Nebbiolo | La Morra, Italy

'Tasted alongside the La Serra, which is always interesting. If you want to experience terroir, well, I reckon traditionally made Barolo and Barbaresco provide much better examples than Burgundy does, with their Pinot Noir toolkit of winemaking techniques obfuscating vineyards so often! Anyway, air-freight sample here, so likely arriving in the not too distant future, given the travails of international shipping at present, container shortages, and the like. I’ve been dipping into my 2010s of

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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Marenca’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Classic south/south-west exposure. The only difference in the vinification process is the oak maturation. Around 50% goes into large-format aged botti and the remainder in tonneaux, partially new (1 year in tonneaux and 1 year in large botti). ‘Marenca’ is only offered as a cru Barolo by Pira – the other owner, Angelo Gaja, use theirs (along with their ‘Margheria’) in Barolo ‘Sperss’. The nose is fresh, with complex aromas that range from wild berries to dark chocolate and dried he

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Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Cerretta’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Italy

Owned by the Rosso family since 1920, the plot was partly replanted in 1984 and 2000. Situated about 2 miles (3km) to the north of Serralunga village, Cerretta lies close to the hamlet of Baudana and envelops that of Cerretta. The fruit for this Cru wine comes from the best parcel which is shaped like an amphitheatre facing south-east. This part of the vineyard provides a particularly good micro-climate for Nebbiolo since it is protected from stronger winds by the copse at the bottom of the s

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Giovanni Rosso Barolo ‘Serra’ 2018

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

Owned by the Rosso family since 1946, it was replanted in three phases: 1984, 1996 and 2003. La Serra is located about 1km south of the village of Serralunga in the upper part of the Serralunga commune. Those who have tried even the Langhe Neb will have quickly seen a wine from a maker with an understanding of harmony, restraint and purity. Aromas of red berry, blue flower and whiffs of oak-driven spice take shape in the glass. The palate is almost ethereally elegant, featuring crushed

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Luigi Pira Barolo ‘Margheria’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

All south-facing and sitting at 340 metres, vinification is the same as the Barolo ‘Serralunga’. Intense and complex nose with notes of fruit and flowers and hints of leather and fresh hay, while on the palate it’s perfectly knit and very distinctive, red fruited in style with ironstone, choc-cherry, roses and some of the darker notes of cola and porcini, along with textural red plum-skin, grippy, black-tea tannins that underpin, but it’s still generous and very approachable now.

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Barale Barolo ‘Castellero’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Italy, Barolo

An excellent stepwise jump in quality commensurate with the price. Building in depth and length with a matched build in seriously good grape tannins. Again the flow and shape. Long, even, divine. Such a beautiful wine. Incredible complexity and harmony make for a seamless wine that you can’t separate the individual aromas and flavours. Wonderful fruit, savoury notes, baking spice, woody herbs tea. Every sniff reveals another perfume. This is very very good enveloping you in pleasure even at

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Barale Barolo ‘Bussia’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Moving to Monforte at the top of Bussia we see the hallmarks of the top Bussia. The acid tannin complex is true to the form for the commune showing a playful grip. Bright red fruit with a certain delicacy combine with energetic acid. Again a beautiful perfume with a dark mineral slatey edge. Blood orange and a little phenol. Another great example of grape first Barolo showing its part of the commune of Monforte. Like the Monrobiolo a few more years in bottle will see this resolve, build and

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Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Starderi’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

Olek has incredible touch. The man understands textures and tannins, creates wines with insane perfumes and layer after layer of diving flavours. I can't wait to hook one of these when it hits the warehouse! Starderi is in the center north in the commune of Nieve. Check it out in the map below.

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Olek Bondonio Barbaresco ‘Roncagliette’ 2020

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barbaresco

From the same vineyard that offers us Gaja's Sori Tildin, we have Olek's Roncagliette! Tasting the 2020 (Oct 2023) 6 months after it's Oz release again demonstrated Olek's incredible touch. The man understands textures and tannins, creates wines with insane perfumes and layer after layer of divine flavours. On release it was quite bold. Now, everything is dialing into the right levels. The fruit has pulled back a little and the perfume is building. The shape and flow I've come to expect from

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Paolo Scavino Barolo ‘Bricco Ambrogio’ 2019

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Italy

The 2019 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is a pretty tightly-wound wine for a site that has produced much more open-knit Barolos. Floral, savory and mineral notes dominate, while fruit is pushed into the background. I am surprised to see acids and tannins so prominently on display. It will be interesting to see if this ever softens. Drink 2024-2037 Antonio Galloni, Vinous 93 Points The 2019 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio (with 6,800 bottles made) needs more time to open. With fruit from the village of

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The Bold!

Giovanni Sordo Barolo Riserva ‘Perno’ 2010

Nebbiolo | Piedmont, Barolo

Lifting the level to Sordo's Riserva Range is always Fun! The wine has resolved beautifully now, the Monforte tannins are still there, the have softened the generosity of fruit has built and secondaries layered in. This is all Monforte, with giveaway blue fruits, violet, cherry liqueur and some mint. Sordo's Perno, is the Cerretta parcel, immediately adjoining Conterno-Fantino’s, with which it shares a similar darker ‘blue’ style. Well 2010, what can you say! Stunning year and it shows in

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A Masterpiece!

Figli Luigi Oddero Barolo 2016

Nebbiolo | Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo

On most recent devouring, Oct 2022, the 2016 Barolo is starting to reveal itself. On release it was clearly something special, now a couple of years on it is a seamless wonder, flow and harmony. A vote for blending across communes, the oppulence of La Morra, the layers, line and length of Castiglione Falletto and the dark structure of Serralunga all making for a complete wine. Plenty more to come! A blend of fruit from 30% La Morra’s Rive, 30% Castiglione Falletto’s Scarrone, &

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Fratelli Alessandria Barolo ‘Gramolere’ 2017

Nebbiolo | Monforte d'Alba, Italy

The 2017 Barolo Gramolere is a powerful, tightly wound wine full of Monforte tension. Readers will have to be patient. Dark-fleshed fruit, spice, menthol, licorice and sage add layers of aromatic intrigue to this firm, hulky Barolo. The 2017 takes all the Gramolere signatures and turns up the volume. Antonio Galloni, Vinous

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Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Nuova Regina 2016

Nebbiolo | Valtellina, Italy

The name has changed from Vigna Regina to Nuova Regina the wine is the same ... Delicious! Sassella is typically the most elegant of the Communes made by Ar.Pe.Pe. The Nuova Regina is clearly the most sophisticated of the 2016 Riserva crop. The perfume here ramps up a notch, delicacy and intrigue with underlying power all be it in a mid-weight wine. Constantly changing and evolving with each sniff. The flow, shape and mouthfeel are impeccable. Vibrant red fruit with woody herbs tea, blood ora

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Ar.Pe.Pe Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Rocce Rosse 2016

Nebbiolo | Valtellina, Italy

The Rocce Rosse has a darker feel. Currently, I perceive it as a little richer with an extra squirt of tannin to hold it. Dark spiced, long firm yet fine tannins. Like the Nuova Regina and Sant’Antonio it lingers for some time. Again there is real beauty here. It unfolds in the glass revealing layer after layer. Incredible, complete wine of exceptional balance. It is unfair to separate the two Sassella, they are both stunning. Drinking the pair together on any given night over the next 1

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