Size & Type
Other
$254
Set in the very heart of the Grand Cru area, Vaudesir has a subtle diversity in exposure. Its steep terrain contains more clay than limestone and produces wines of great finesse and elegance.
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Back in the early naughties, we were hoovering Chablis from the early 1970’s. When the Tsunami hit, wheelbarrows of Grand & 1er Cru’s were arriving from the auction at houses at around $14 a bottle. By the time it receded, they were up at a round $40 a bottle and still a bargain. Purity, complexity, amazing texture, lovely lines of acid were the hallmarks of these incredible wines. Testut et Fréres Grenouille featured! Such a great vineyard.
Fèvre is a major producer that boasts one of the most impressive arrays of Premier and Grand Crus. Didier Séguier has been head winemaker for several years now. Under Séguier guidance, the Domaine veered away from their rather zealous oak regime to a more prudent approach that mixes barrel ageing with stainless steel.
The domain uses old barrels with an average age of 6 years rather than new oak, in order to preserve freshness and minerality and enable the subtle nuances of Chablis’ terroirs to fully express themselves.
1959, the year in which William Fèvre declared his first crop, marked the birth of the domain. Descended from a family which had lived in the Chablis region for over 250 years, it was only natural that he set up as a winemaker with 7 hectares of vineyards.
Over the years the domain has acquired new vineyards in Chablis, all located in the historic terroirs. William Fèvre has become one of the biggest land owners in Chablis with 78 hectares of prestigious vineyards, of which 15.9 are classified as Premiers Crus and 15.2 as Grand Crus.
“Régisseur Didier Séguier describes 2017 as “another complicated early start to the growing season because we had ten consecutive nights at the end of April with below 0. In particular, our parcels of Montée de Tonnerre, Vaulorent and the grands crus were more heavily affected than the others. After a cool and relatively wet spring, the summer weather and disease pressure were what I would call correct and while it was certainly warm, it wasn’t so warm as to have burned away all the supporting acidity. We chose to begin picking on the 4th of September and brought in impeccably clean fruit with good maturity if varying maturity levels. This is to say that potential alcohols varied between 11 and 13% with fine acid levels that are almost as good as 2010 or 2014. Yields were also quite variable and while the average was right at 40 hl/ha, the 1ers came in between 35 and 40 hl/ha but the grands crus were 15 to 30 hl/ha. The post-malo pHs settled out at between 3.15 and 3.25 with total acidities of 4.2 to 4.6 gm/L. During the élevage I did absolutely no lees stirring though when we racked, I basically kept all of the lees. As to the style of the 2017s, I would describe them as super-pure and concentrated, indeed they could be thought of as being like 2014 but not quite as fresh. Moreover I think that they will age extremely well.” I have mentioned this before but it bears repeating so readers will not be surprised: for several years now Fèvre has elected to bottle its entire range, including the grands crus, under the Diam cork” Burghound
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Beautifully fragrant nose with spiced peach biscuits and almonds, fresh lemons and wet, chalky nuances. The palate has a smooth, pastry-like texture with very composed peaches and grapefruit at the core. Drink or hold.
The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a well defined bouquet, quite complex with scents of honeysuckle, citrus peel, a faint touch of nougat and almond lending a soupçon of exoticism. The palate is well defined with a crisp, taut line of acidity. I admire the focus of this Vaudésir with a lightly spiced, quite tensile finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent.
Note: from two separate parcels of vines, the larger of which is in the heart of the "amphitheater" from which the finest examples of Vaudésir originate A background application of wood is present on the vaguely exotic aromas of dried pear, apple, white peach and quinine. There is both excellent delineation and punch to the notably saline-inflected flavors that possess good punch while retaining a lovely sense of refinement on the impressively complex and persistent finish. This is lovely juice that should age well over the mid-term.
91-94 points, Tasted: October 15 2018, Drink: 2024+ Issue: 72 - Sweet spot
Where in the world does the magic happen?
William FEVRE, Rue Jules Rathier, Chablis, France
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